Affichant les 14 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7- R4 | Catrene și Dileme | 4 | |||
6- A0 3A | Canionul Ciorânga Mare | 4 | |||
6+/7- A1 5B | Fețele din Stânga Lirei | 6 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Muchia Bondarului
1
4
45m
2
2
40m
3
3
45m
4
5
40m
5
6+
45m
6
3
45m
4B Romanian, 6+ UIAA (5+/6- A0), S5/RS3 protection A very airy and spectacular 2-pitch ridge, with a long scrambling approach. Bolted belays, two bolts in the crux and one on a friable portion of an approach pitch, a few old pitons and reasonable gear placement (recommended: 0.3 to 3 BD or equivalent cams, a couple of long slings, maybe some small nuts) Approach - Entrance to Canionul Cioranga P1: Start from Floricioiu's memorial plaque on 15m of runout easy grassy slab, keep left under a small rock wall (2 pitons and some gear placements available) then when the wall becomes a small peak head right on some slabs, past a cordelette-slung tree (the old belay) and on to a bolted belay. 4 UIAA, 45m P2: Continue to the right up a wide gully, ignore the bolted belay on a platform to your left (it's from Les Pas R'venus) and continue on the gully to the belay. 2 UIAA, 40m P3: At the piton above, cross 1 gully to the left (there's a bolt with yellow cordelette to guide you/protect the friable crux but it's not visible from the belay if you're short) and continue upwards on it until reaching a platform at the right of the ridge. 3 UIAA, 45m P4: The first ridge pitch and the most airy. Gain the ridge on a runout 4 UIAA section (some placements for small gear available but not ideal) until pitons start appearing (the 5 crux is well protected). Belay in the saddle, on the left. 5 UIAA, 40m P5: Gain the ridge using some vertical slabs (medium cams), then continue on it until reaching the crux crack of the route (bolted, and pitoned densely enough to French-free it). Exit right (free climb crux of the route). The next piton will be the last one of the pitch. Follow a crack back to the ridge (medium to large friends, protect the exit for the second) then walk on the ridge for 10 unprotectable meters to a rock horn and then the belay. 6+ UIAA (6 A0), 45m P6: Follow a succession of easy slabs and chimnneys, avoiding a dwarf pine patch on the left, until reaching a second dwarf pine patch. The belay is on a single bolt, to the right of it. 3 UIAA, 45m Retreat: Follow a rather unclear path to the dwarf pines until reaching Braul de Sus, which should be taken right towards Acul de la Amvon. Rappel/downclimb Valcelul cu Fereastra (30m raps) | 260m, 6, 3 | |||
6 - 7 A0 5B | ★★★ Lespezile Lirei | 6 | |||
7 R2 | Traseul Nușu Ion | 5 | |||
7 - 8 A0 | Les Pas' Rvenus | 6 | |||
5B | Surplomba Hornului | 7 | |||
6 - 7 A0 5A | Traseul Central al Lirei | 7 | |||
7- R2 | Frumoasele și Bestia | 4 | |||
6 R2 | Loz în frig | 4 | |||
5B | Apus de Soare | 5 | |||
2A | Traversarea Peretelui Ciorânga Mare | ||||
2B | Muchia cu Fereastră
FA: Rupi & Laura B., 2013 | 4 |
Affichant les 14 voies total.