Routes: Routes in Peretele Ciorânga Mare

Grade	Route	Gear style

7- R4	Catrene și Dileme	Trad 4
6- A0 3A	Canionul Ciorânga Mare	Trad 4
6+/7- A1 5B	Fețele din Stânga Lirei	Trad 6
6+	★★★ Muchia Bondarului 1 4 45m 2 2 40m 3 3 45m 4 5 40m 5 6+ 45m 6 3 45m 4B Romanian, 6+ UIAA (5+/6- A0), S5/RS3 protection A very airy and spectacular 2-pitch ridge, with a long scrambling approach. Bolted belays, two bolts in the crux and one on a friable portion of an approach pitch, a few old pitons and reasonable gear placement (recommended: 0.3 to 3 BD or equivalent cams, a couple of long slings, maybe some small nuts) Approach - Entrance to Canionul Cioranga P1: Start from Floricioiu's memorial plaque on 15m of runout easy grassy slab, keep left under a small rock wall (2 pitons and some gear placements available) then when the wall becomes a small peak head right on some slabs, past a cordelette-slung tree (the old belay) and on to a bolted belay. 4 UIAA, 45m P2: Continue to the right up a wide gully, ignore the bolted belay on a platform to your left (it's from Les Pas R'venus) and continue on the gully to the belay. 2 UIAA, 40m P3: At the piton above, cross 1 gully to the left (there's a bolt with yellow cordelette to guide you/protect the friable crux but it's not visible from the belay if you're short) and continue upwards on it until reaching a platform at the right of the ridge. 3 UIAA, 45m P4: The first ridge pitch and the most airy. Gain the ridge on a runout 4 UIAA section (some placements for small gear available but not ideal) until pitons start appearing (the 5 crux is well protected). Belay in the saddle, on the left. 5 UIAA, 40m P5: Gain the ridge using some vertical slabs (medium cams), then continue on it until reaching the crux crack of the route (bolted, and pitoned densely enough to French-free it). Exit right (free climb crux of the route). The next piton will be the last one of the pitch. Follow a crack back to the ridge (medium to large friends, protect the exit for the second) then walk on the ridge for 10 unprotectable meters to a rock horn and then the belay. 6+ UIAA (6 A0), 45m P6: Follow a succession of easy slabs and chimnneys, avoiding a dwarf pine patch on the left, until reaching a second dwarf pine patch. The belay is on a single bolt, to the right of it. 3 UIAA, 45m Retreat: Follow a rather unclear path to the dwarf pines until reaching Braul de Sus, which should be taken right towards Acul de la Amvon. Rappel/downclimb Valcelul cu Fereastra (30m raps)	Mixed trad 260m, 6, 3
6 - 7 A0 5B	★★★ Lespezile Lirei	Trad 6
7 R2	Traseul Nușu Ion	Trad 5
7 - 8 A0	Les Pas' Rvenus	Trad 6
5B	Surplomba Hornului	Trad 7
6 - 7 A0 5A	Traseul Central al Lirei	Trad 7
7- R2	Frumoasele și Bestia	Trad 4
6 R2	Loz în frig	Trad 4
5B	Apus de Soare	Trad 5
2A	Traversarea Peretelui Ciorânga Mare	Trad
2B	Muchia cu Fereastră FA: Rupi & Laura B., 2013	Alpine 4

1 4 45m

2 2 40m

3 3 45m

4 5 40m

5 6+ 45m

6 3 45m

4B Romanian, 6+ UIAA (5+/6- A0), S5/RS3 protection

A very airy and spectacular 2-pitch ridge, with a long scrambling approach. Bolted belays, two bolts in the crux and one on a friable portion of an approach pitch, a few old pitons and reasonable gear placement (recommended: 0.3 to 3 BD or equivalent cams, a couple of long slings, maybe some small nuts)

Approach - Entrance to Canionul Cioranga

P1: Start from Floricioiu's memorial plaque on 15m of runout easy grassy slab, keep left under a small rock wall (2 pitons and some gear placements available) then when the wall becomes a small peak head right on some slabs, past a cordelette-slung tree (the old belay) and on to a bolted belay. 4 UIAA, 45m

P2: Continue to the right up a wide gully, ignore the bolted belay on a platform to your left (it's from Les Pas R'venus) and continue on the gully to the belay. 2 UIAA, 40m

P3: At the piton above, cross 1 gully to the left (there's a bolt with yellow cordelette to guide you/protect the friable crux but it's not visible from the belay if you're short) and continue upwards on it until reaching a platform at the right of the ridge. 3 UIAA, 45m

P4: The first ridge pitch and the most airy. Gain the ridge on a runout 4 UIAA section (some placements for small gear available but not ideal) until pitons start appearing (the 5 crux is well protected). Belay in the saddle, on the left. 5 UIAA, 40m

P5: Gain the ridge using some vertical slabs (medium cams), then continue on it until reaching the crux crack of the route (bolted, and pitoned densely enough to French-free it). Exit right (free climb crux of the route). The next piton will be the last one of the pitch. Follow a crack back to the ridge (medium to large friends, protect the exit for the second) then walk on the ridge for 10 unprotectable meters to a rock horn and then the belay. 6+ UIAA (6 A0), 45m

P6: Follow a succession of easy slabs and chimnneys, avoiding a dwarf pine patch on the left, until reaching a second dwarf pine patch. The belay is on a single bolt, to the right of it. 3 UIAA, 45m

Retreat: Follow a rather unclear path to the dwarf pines until reaching Braul de Sus, which should be taken right towards Acul de la Amvon. Rappel/downclimb Valcelul cu Fereastra (30m raps)

Routes in Peretele Ciorânga Mare

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