Affichant les 77 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6+ - 8+ A0 5A | |||||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
6+ - 8+ A0 5A | Fisurile Centrale | 6 | |||
7/7+ | |||||
Hornul Adânc | |||||
7/7+ | Rock n Rolla | 5 | |||
7 A2 4B | |||||
Hornul Adânc | |||||
7 A2 4B | Traseul Scara de Fier | 5 | |||
7 A0 4B | |||||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
7 A0 4B | Creasta Şoimilor | 6 | |||
7- | |||||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
7- | ★★ Creasta Coarnele Caprei
1
4+
40m
2
7-
25m
3
7-
25m
4
5-
60m
5
5+
30m
6
3
30m
7
6/6+
60m
4A Romanian 7- UIAA (6- A0) A not too airy but quite fun to climb ridge. Some belays and cruxes have had bolts added, and the old pitons are still there for aid, but having at least a minimal rack and some extra 120cm slings (and at least 1 240cm) is recommended. There are many opportunities to set a belay on natural features (the pre-rebolting route had all natural belays) so the number of pitches will vary - the description below is only one possible way of doing the route. Approach: through Padina lui Calinet past Saritoarea Mare, then take the secondary for a few dozens of meters (before the first obstacle) P1: Starts with a 15m runout on broken slab, doable either on the left (5+, chossy) or right (4+, grassy but less friable, some nut placements available on the ridge next to you). Then cross right on a protected ledge, under the eponymous "goat horns" formations, and back left on a 4+ chimney that leads to a belay boulder. 40m, 4+/5+ UIAA P2: Head up a grassy bit that leads to a 7- face (aidable down to 5 A0) followed by a 6+ slightly overhanging dihedral (same). Then head up an easy chimney to a ledge. Belay off a bolt + small tree. 25m, 7- UIAA (6- A0) P3: Continue on the ledge to the right until reaching a slightly overhanging 7- face (aidable), then on easy terrain up to a boulder belay. Uniting this with the previous pitch will lead to quite a bit of rope drag on the overhang. 25m, 7- UIAA (5 A0) P4: Head on easy runout to the base of the wall visible above you. The 5- crux is protected by a bolt, and the pitch can be broken in two by belaying on natural features (choose your own). Final belay is off a large boulder, but there are opportunities for medium or large cams as well 60m, 5- UIAA P5: The new bolted version to the right (7 UIAA) misses the best photo opportunity of the route, so head left instead, climb a flake separated from the wall (5+, protectable by slinging a chockstone) until gaining an airy 5+ secondary ridge protected by the occasional piton. Rejoin the main ridge (beware of a very loose microwave-sized boulder, we couldn't get rid of it since there were people in the gullies below) and belay off a boulder. 30m, 5+ UIAA P6: Traverse to the right on grassy ledges, then climb a very easy and mostly unprotected chimney (3 UIAA) until regaining the main ridge. Belay off a boulder (very comfortable belay "armchair" for the next pitch) if you have 60m ropes and a 240cm sling, or continue for 10m through the bushes to a bolted belay at the base of a face if any of these is missing. 30-40m, 3 UIAA P7: Do the 10m of bushwhacking if you haven't already done them, then stat on a well-protected 6 UIAA face, avoiding the overhang at the end on the right, continue on the ridge to a second bit of compact rock (6/6+, technical slab, on pitons) and finish with a 5+ friable runout to the final belay (on the left of a rock ridge). 50-60m, 6/6+ UIAA Retreat: 1 20m rappel to a grass slope, then head left on Braul de Sus (in good visibility, easy to follow - it's the great faultline crossing Muchia Timbalului Mare) up to the gully before Acul de la Amvon (Valcelul cu Smardar). Descend that down to the arch of Valcelul cu Fereastra, cross into it, downclimb or rappel (5 rappels, first and last off trees marked with cord, middle 3 off bolts - the bolts aren't marked with cord but the old pitons are, so pay attention) | 270m, 7, 10 | |||
6+/7- 4A | |||||
Amfiteatrul Colţilor Gemeni | |||||
6+/7- 4A | Fisura în S | 3 | |||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
6+/7- 4A | Creasta Piticului | 2 | |||
6 A0 5A | |||||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
6 A0 5A | Creasta Prieteniei | 6 | |||
6 3B | |||||
Peretele Răchitei | |||||
6 3B | Hornul din Brâul Răchitei | 5 | |||
5+ 2A | |||||
Peretele Răchitei | |||||
5+ 2A | Lespedea Verde | 4 | |||
5 | |||||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
5 | ★★ Creasta Frumoasă
1
4
2
5
3
2
4
4
One of the easier ridge routes in Piatra Craiului. All natural belays (rock spikes/bushes). Mostly protected on mobiles and slings, although some of the harder moves take pitons. Pitch 1 starts with an initial ~15m chimney, protected with 3 pitons - 1 on the right, near the start, 1 on the left (better ignored to minimize drag) and 1 again on the right, near the chimney exit (crux of the pitch). Continue on the ridge and sling a rock for a belay. Pitch 2 continues on the ridge up to a 10m crack, protected with pitons (it takes mobiles as well) - this is the crux of the route. After it, traverse slightly to the left and follow another crack, this time with no fixed protection, to a patch of dwarf pines and some belay rocks after it. Pitch 3 is an easy ridge traverse that at some point enters a gully. 70m long but with multiple intermediary belay opportunities if you want to avoid simulclimbing. Pitch 4 is whatever was left out of pitch 3 and a final, relatively simple chimney (partially protected with pitons). Belay to the left of the chimney exit. FA: Ionel Coman, Daria & Ion Mircan, 1947 | 180m, 4 | |||
5- 2A | |||||
Peretele Muchiei dintre Ţimbale | |||||
5- 2A | Muchia dintre Ţimbale | 4 | |||
5A | |||||
Amfiteatrul Colţilor Gemeni | |||||
5A | Surplomba Neagră | 5 | |||
Degetul lui Călineţ | |||||
5A | Traseul 4 | 2 | |||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
5A | Fisura Verde | 6 | |||
4B | |||||
Valea Ciorânguţa | |||||
4B | Sângele Voinicului | 4 | |||
Amfiteatrul Colţilor Gemeni | |||||
4B | Traseul Marian Nicolae | 3 | |||
Vâlcelul Caprelor | |||||
4B | Faţa Mare din Ţancul Caprei | 6 | |||
4B | Faţa Mică din Ţancul Caprei | 6 | |||
4B | Traseul cu Narcise | 7 | |||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
4B | Muchia Suspendată | ||||
4B | Peretele vestic din Călineţ | 4 | |||
4A | |||||
Valea Vlăduşca | |||||
4A | Traseul Lespezilor de sub Ulcior | 8 | |||
Zona Colţii Gemeni | |||||
4A | Hornul Mic din Colţii Gemeni | 3 | |||
Zona Valea Podurilor - Brâul de Mijloc | |||||
4A | Muchia Bondarului | 3 | |||
4A | Muchia Reptilei | 5 | |||
Peretele Muchiei dintre Ţimbale | |||||
4A | Muchia Grotei | 5 | |||
4A | Muchia Scării | 4 | |||
Călineţul Mic | |||||
4A | Creasta de Sus | 6 | |||
4A | Traseul Vestic din Ţancul fără Nume | 3 | |||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
4A | Traseul Hornul Căpriţei | 5 | |||
4A | Hornul Piticului | 4 | |||
4A | Muchia Arinului | 5 | |||
4A | Hornul Adânc - firul principal | ||||
Peretele Răchitei | |||||
4A | Creasta din Brâul cu Flori | 5 | |||
3B | |||||
Zona Colţii Gemeni | |||||
3B | Turnul Înclinat | 5 | |||
Zona Valea Podurilor - Brâul de Mijloc | |||||
3B | Creasta Frumoasă | 5 | |||
Vâlcelul Caprelor | |||||
3B | Muchia cu Verdeaţă | 5 | |||
Brâul de Mijloc | |||||
3B | Colţii Brâului | 4 | |||
A0 3A | |||||
Peretele Răchitei | |||||
A0 3A | Traseu fără nume | 8 | |||
3A | |||||
Zona Valea Podurilor - Brâul de Mijloc | |||||
3A | Muchia Teşită | 3 | |||
3A | Muchia cu Horn | 2 | |||
Vâlcelul Caprelor | |||||
3A | Vâlcelul din Ţancul Caprei | 4 | |||
Degetul lui Călineţ | |||||
3A | Traseul 3 | 2 | |||
3A | Traseul 2 - vestic | 2 | |||
Vâlcelul Secundar al Călineţului | |||||
3A | Zăvorul Călineţului | 3 | |||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
3A | Muchia Scurtă | 3 | |||
3A | Creasta Friată | 3 | |||
3A | Muchia Întreruptă | 3 | |||
Peretele Răchitei | |||||
3A | Muchia Răchitei | 4 | |||
2B | |||||
Zona Valea Podurilor - Brâul de Mijloc | |||||
2B | Muchia Ţimbalului Mic - variantă
FA: Rupi & Hoțul, 27 Août 2016 | ||||
Vâlcelul Secundar al Călineţului | |||||
2B | Hornul Îngheţat | 3 | |||
2A | |||||
Zona Colţii Gemeni | |||||
2A | Colţii Gemeni | 3 | |||
Zona Valea Podurilor - Brâul de Mijloc | |||||
2A | Muchia Ţimbalului Mic | ||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||
2A | Secundarul Hornului Cetății Sfărâmate | ||||
Degetul lui Călineţ | |||||
2A | Traseul 1 - estic | ||||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
2A | Hornul Adânc - firul secundar | ||||
1B | |||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||
1B | Valea cu Grotă - firul secundar | ||||
1B | Valea Vlăduşca - firul secundar | ||||
1B | Valea Vlăduşca - firul principal | ||||
1B | Valea cu Grotă - firul principal | ||||
1B | Valea Ciorânguţa | ||||
1B | Valea Podurilor - firul secundar | ||||
1B | Valea Podurilor - firul principal | ||||
1B | Hornul Brâniţei | ||||
1B | Hornul Pliat | ||||
1B | Hornul Cetății Sfărâmate | ||||
1B | Brâul de Sus | ||||
1B | Padina lui Călineţ - firul principal | ||||
1B | Călineţul Mic | ||||
1B | Padina lui Călineţ - firul secundar | ||||
1B | Brâul de Mijloc | ||||
1B | Brâul Răchitei | ||||
1A | |||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||
1A | Brâul Soarelui | ||||
1A | Vâlcelul Caprelor | ||||
1A | Brâul de jos | ||||
Padina lui Călineţ | |||||
Traseul lui Cătălin Berbec |
Affichant les 77 voies total.