Voies dans Chosspile

Starts at the left of The Man cave, traversing through a flat roof on a parallel crack to the right, ending on a lead out dash to the chains exiting the roof. 3 Bolts up, 8 across and a dash to the chains.

Open Project

Starts below (right) the Megalomaniac pile. Cuts straight up the face using the obvious crack through the roofs and over the lip.

Starts below the chains of the Manometer and follows the bolt line all the way to the lip of the roof and finishing on the same chains as manometer.

knee pads recommended

The steep line through the bulge and striped wall above. Scramble up to the ledge. Reach out for the cock (or is it a bollock?) and work up the kneebar to gain the face. Move left to the massive shake ('baby Jesus rest') on Kleptomaniac then bust up the zebra-streaked wall.

Take a proper kneepad.

Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on.

Extention of The Megalomaniac. Starting on The Megalomaniac, it runs along till the last bolt of The Megalomaniac, tends gradually upward, then crosses over the last bolt of Kleptomaniac, the last bolt of Cock or Bollock (in the roof) and then follows a roof crack and ends on Violent Streak's chains.

Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.

Interesting stemming low down, and a powerful hand jam to clip for the crux.

There are some rather aggressive starlings nesting nearby...be prepared to be flown at.

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A good climb up the steep wall. New anchors put up in May 2015 (MCSA).

A gem! Strange that it was not bolted sooner. Sustained face climbing up the right facing wall. Hardware by MCSA-Boven Fund.

Natural Gear

Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.

Power climb up a black open book. Mantle shelf out of a roof, to the chains. Nice climb!

Start in corner, just left of chimney. Move left onto slab then right onto a short right facing corner. Climb to ledge then move left onto left facing corner. Steep moves at the top. Bad rope drag - take some long draws.

This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe. New anchors May2015 (MCSA).

Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above. New anchors May2015 (MCSA)

The first route on the main face.Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under overhang and up the slab (crux). A 60m rope ESSENTIAL.

Joins and finishes on HCLH about halfway.

Heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. Its a little artificial but if you climb the arete, try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors 100% as of 16 Jan 2010.

Starts at the same bolt as Griffendore and goes to the left.

2m right of Huff 'n Puff

8m right of Crookshanks

starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start.

Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last sport route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings.

Start on the boulder and make your way up and towards the obvious crack. Go over the top of the ledge and finish by the tree. Protection is good, but would recommend a cam or two.

Starts with an easy scramble about 10m left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.

Starts with Pipe Weed. Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending. First bolt is high, scramble up carefully and consider using temporarily the first bolt of Pipe Weed. Unclip once on next bolt.

Start outside the left corner of the cave, finishes up a highly visible yellow lichen covered face. Mostly right-facing. Pumpy start sure to get your blood flowing for greater things in the cave!

Use first 3 bolts of Mourn not Overmuch. Finish on the chains of Gollum.

2nd pitch of Gollum, rarely climbed

Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.

There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down. Starts at the obvious hacked stump.

Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel.

Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now.

Project from Andrew Peddley, 33-ish Split right from 2n draw of Fossil Fuel. 7 New bolts and chains

Just to the right of the small cave roof at the far right of Lord of the Rings.

Left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. Technical thin climbing to arete. End on same face as SCTM, stay left. Has its own anchors.

T-Pex/Gollum link up. Start on T-Pec Direct, move left and end on Gollum, Gollum hole is out.

Starts from the ground not from cave. T-Pex direct. Much better from the ground. Don’t think it should ever be climbed from cave!

This is a solitary route on a face between the Lord of the Rings cave and Wall of Aglarond, left of the path. First bolt is quite high.

Keep mostly left, and don't use some really close bolts from Mr Gamgee.

Starts just left of the tree at the base. Beehive right of this route, be careful. Bees are less active in the late afternoon. (none seen on 2019-08-10)

Starts just right of the tree at the base.

On the arete

Up the gully, pleasant climb.

This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. Last bolt below the anchors has no hanger.

Starts about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle. Single anchor point with a rap ring.