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Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Man Cave | |||||
34 | ★★★ The Megalomaniac
Starts at the left of The Man cave, traversing through a flat roof on a parallel crack to the right, ending on a lead out dash to the chains exiting the roof. 3 Bolts up, 8 across and a dash to the chains. Erschliesser: Andrew Pedley, 2012 Erstbegehung: Ebert Nel, 2015 | 11 | |||
The Third Base
Open Project Starts below (right) the Megalomaniac pile. Cuts straight up the face using the obvious crack through the roofs and over the lip. Erschliesser: Ebert Nel, 2014 Erstbegehung: Wesley Black, 2016 | 10 | ||||
30 | ★★ No Pants Party
Starts below the chains of the Manometer and follows the bolt line all the way to the lip of the roof and finishing on the same chains as manometer. | 7 | |||
31 | Kleptomaniac
knee pads recommended Erschliesser: Andrey Pedley Erstbegehung: Brian Weaver, 2013 | 9 | |||
30 | Cock or Bollock
The steep line through the bulge and striped wall above. Scramble up to the ledge. Reach out for the cock (or is it a bollock?) and work up the kneebar to gain the face. Move left to the massive shake ('baby Jesus rest') on Kleptomaniac then bust up the zebra-streaked wall. Take a proper kneepad. Erstbegehung: Andrey Pedley, Aug 2014 | 10 | |||
32 | ★★ Violent Streak
Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. Erschliesser: Andrew Pedley, 2012 Erstbegehung: Andrew Pedley, 2012 | 7 | |||
37 | The Algometer Open project
Extention of The Megalomaniac. Starting on The Megalomaniac, it runs along till the last bolt of The Megalomaniac, tends gradually upward, then crosses over the last bolt of Kleptomaniac, the last bolt of Cock or Bollock (in the roof) and then follows a roof crack and ends on Violent Streak's chains. Erschliesser: Ebert Nel, 2015 | ||||
27 | Pedo
Erschliesser: Ockert Joubert Erstbegehung: Calvin Curtis, 2017 | ||||
21 | ★★ Woman's Option
Erstbegehung: Neil Margetts, 2014 | 12 | |||
21 | Drako
1
21
2
21
Erstbegehung: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 2, 14 | |||
Harry Potter | |||||
24 | ★ Drako
1
21
2
24
Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to. | 2, 14 | |||
15 | ★★★ Bolts From The Blue
Erstbegehung: Stephen Mallory, Wessel du Plooy & Cara Fleisher | 40m | |||
19 | ★ Harry Pothead
Interesting stemming low down, and a powerful hand jam to clip for the crux. Erstbegehung: Rory lowther | 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Hogwart's Warted Hog
Erstbegehung: Rory Lowther | 9 | |||
25 | ★★★ Chamber Of Secrets
Erschliesser: Rory Lowther Erstbegehung: Steve Dunnet | 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Dobby
Erschliesser: Debbie Mulder Erstbegehung: Rory Lowther | 8 | |||
19 | ★ Dodgy Glue
There are some rather aggressive starlings nesting nearby...be prepared to be flown at. | 8 | |||
24 | Man Thang
.. | 6 | |||
21 | ★★ The Philosophers Stoned
A good climb up the steep wall. New anchors put up in May 2015 (MCSA). Erstbegehung: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 8 | |||
19 | ★★ Hermione Puts Out
A gem! Strange that it was not bolted sooner. Sustained face climbing up the right facing wall. Hardware by MCSA-Boven Fund. Erstbegehung: Matt Hoffman, Jun 2015 | 10 | |||
13 | ★ Harry Goes Trading
Natural Gear | ||||
23 | ★★ Moaning Murtle
Erstbegehung: Roland Magg | 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Salazar
Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing. Erschliesser: David Tapp Erstbegehung: Daniel Hannah, 2010 | 9 | |||
22 | ★★ Spongify
Erstbegehung: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 8 | |||
19 | ★ Voltamor
Power climb up a black open book. Mantle shelf out of a roof, to the chains. Nice climb! Erstbegehung: Rory Lowther, 2003 | 8 | |||
20 | ★ Diffindo
Erstbegehung: Rory Lowther | 7 | |||
15 | ★★ The Bloody Baron
Start in corner, just left of chimney. Move left onto slab then right onto a short right facing corner. Climb to ledge then move left onto left facing corner. Steep moves at the top. Bad rope drag - take some long draws. | 12 | |||
23 | ★ Quidditch
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe. New anchors May2015 (MCSA). Erstbegehung: Neil Margetts, 2008 | 7 | |||
21 | ★★ The Balls of Hagrid
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above. New anchors May2015 (MCSA) Erstbegehung: David Tapp, 2010 | 9 | |||
16 | ★★ The Slab Of Snape
The first route on the main face.Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under overhang and up the slab (crux). A 60m rope ESSENTIAL. Erstbegehung: Neil Margetts, 2010 | 29m, 15 | |||
13 | ★ Harry Catastrophe Left Hand
Erstbegehung: Dylan Morgan, 2004 | 20m, 9 | |||
15 | ★ Harry Catastrophe Right Hand
Joins and finishes on HCLH about halfway. Erstbegehung: Mike Grant, 2004 | 20m, 8 | |||
14 | ★ Slitherin
Erstbegehung: Rory Lawther | 10 | |||
18 | ★ Variation of Slitherin
Heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. Its a little artificial but if you climb the arete, try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors 100% as of 16 Jan 2010. Erstbegehung: Neil Margetts, 2008 | 20m, 9 | |||
17 | ★ Raven's Claw
Erstbegehung: Ronald Magg, 2002 | 9 | |||
16 | ★ Muggle's Express
Starts at the same bolt as Griffendore and goes to the left. Erschliesser: Neil Margetts Erstbegehung: Robyn John, 2014 | 8 | |||
17 | ★ Gryffindor
Erstbegehung: Rory Lawther, 2010 | 10 | |||
18 | ★ Huff'n Puff
Erstbegehung: Rory Lawther | 9 | |||
16 | Crookshanks
2m right of Huff 'n Puff Erschliesser: Neil Margetts, 2007 Erstbegehung: Rachel Bickford, 2007 | 8 | |||
13 | Rowling's Ramble
8m right of Crookshanks Erschliesser: David Tapp, 2010 Erstbegehung: David Tapp, 2010 | 6 | |||
20 | Cramcakes & Scumbags
starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start. Erstbegehung: Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham, 2004 | 6 | |||
11 | Draco's Snake
Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings. Erschliesser: David Tapp, 2010 Erstbegehung: Lize Boshoff, 2010 | 6 | |||
Lord of The Rings | |||||
22 | Pipe Weed
Starts with an easy scramble about 10m left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end. Erstbegehung: Dewald Kloppers, 2005 | 8 | |||
18 | ★ Frodo
Starts with Pipe Weed. Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending. First bolt is high, scramble up carefully and consider using temporarily the first bolt of Pipe Weed. Unclip once on next bolt. Erschliesser: Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver Erstbegehung: Rob Brinkworth, 2005 | 9 | |||
21 | ★★ A Shortcut To Mushrooms
Start outside the left corner of the cave, finishes up a highly visible yellow lichen covered face. Mostly right-facing. Pumpy start sure to get your blood flowing for greater things in the cave! Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 8 | |||
23 | Voices Of Saruman
Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 8 | |||
24 | ★ Gandalf
Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 20m, 9 | |||
25 | ★ Mourn Not Overmuch
Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 20m, 9 | |||
26 | Halfling
Use first 3 bolts of Mourn not Overmuch. Finish on the chains of Gollum. Erstbegehung: Andrew Pedley, 2004 | 10 | |||
24 | ★ Gollum
Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 9 | |||
Gollum Extention
2nd pitch of Gollum, rarely climbed Erstbegehung: Colin Crabtree Erschliesser: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | |||||
29 | Big Bully
Erschliesser: Andrew Pedley & Wesley Black Erstbegehung: Andrey Pedley, 2015 | 10 | |||
29 | ★★ Bully For Brontosaurus
Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus, 1994 | 20m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Tyrannosaurus Pex
Erstbegehung: Willem le Roux, 2006 | 7 | |||
In The Eye Of Smaug
Erschliesser: Ebert Nel, 2014 | |||||
33 | ★★★ Shadowfax
Erschliesser: Pieter Martin Erstbegehung: Andrew Pedley, 2013 | 9 | |||
28 | The Chossfather
Erschliesser: Andrew Pedley, 2012 Erstbegehung: Andrew Pedley, 2012 | 8 | |||
28 | Don't Let Go
Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings. Erstbegehung: Brian Weaver, 2012 | ||||
23 | ★ Don't Deck
There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down. Starts at the obvious hacked stump. Erstbegehung: Michael Cartwright, 1993 | 9 | |||
27 | Don't Deck Extension
Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel. Erstbegehung: Harry Crews, 2009 | 15 | |||
24 - 26 | Shelob
Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now. Erschliesser: Wesley Black, 2011 Erstbegehung: Wesley Black, 2013 | 8 | |||
31 | Anduril Flame of the West
Erschliesser: Wesley Black, 2011 Erstbegehung: Joey Kinder, 2011 | 11 | |||
32 | ★★ Fossil Fuel
Erstbegehung: Ralph Brucher, 2000 | 11 | |||
Peddle to the Metal
Project from Andrew Peddley, 33-ish Split right from 2n draw of Fossil Fuel. 7 New bolts and chains Erschliesser: Andrew Pedley, Jun 2019 | 9 | ||||
Ralph's Open Project
Erschliesser: Ralph Brucher | |||||
31 | Frak-It
Erschliesser: Andrew Pedley Erstbegehung: Andrew Pedley, 2014 | ||||
Pieter Martin's Open Project
Erschliesser: Pieter Martin | |||||
30 | Bio DIesel
Erschliesser: Colin Crabtree Erstbegehung: Andrew Pedley, 2013 | 9 | |||
27 | ★ Grimslade
Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus | 10m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ Unfinished Business
| 7 | |||
20 | ★ Hobbitry In Arms
Erstbegehung: Peter Lazarus, 1993 | 6 | |||
18 | ★ Ramble On
Just to the right of the small cave roof at the far right of Lord of the Rings. | 6 | |||
18 | ★ Hendrik And The Ents
Erstbegehung: Neil Margetts, 2014 | 6 | |||
22 | ★★★ Lord of the Ring Sting
Left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. Technical thin climbing to arete. End on same face as SCTM, stay left. Has its own anchors. Erstbegehung: Carlo Antonelli, 28 Jan | 20m | |||
25 | ★★★ My Precious Pex
T-Pex/Gollum link up. Start on T-Pec Direct, move left and end on Gollum, Gollum hole is out. Erstbegehung: Carlo Antonelli, 10 Dez | 20m, 9 | |||
29 | ★★★ T-Pex Direct
Starts from the ground not from cave. T-Pex direct. Much better from the ground. Don’t think it should ever be climbed from cave! Erstbegehung: Wesley Black, 2008 | 20m, 12 | |||
Wall Of Aglarond | |||||
17 | Seventeen
This is a solitary route on a face between the Lord of the Rings cave and Wall of Aglarond, left of the path. First bolt is quite high. Erstbegehung: Michael Cartwright, 1993 | 20m, 8 | |||
22 | Mina's Truth
| 8 | |||
18 | Shorty
| 8 | |||
16 | Unknown
| 8 | |||
17 | The King Of The Golden Hall
Keep mostly left, and don't use some really close bolts from Mr Gamgee. Erstbegehung: 2003 | 9 | |||
20 | ★ Mr Gamgee
Erstbegehung: 2003 | 9 | |||
19 | ★ Tarrawankie
Starts just left of the tree at the base. Beehive right of this route, be careful. Bees are less active in the late afternoon. (none seen on 2019-08-10) Erstbegehung: 2002 | 9 | |||
22 | ★ Legolas
Starts just right of the tree at the base. Erstbegehung: 2002 | 14 | |||
22 | ★★ Lady Of Lorien
| 11 | |||
21 | ★ Aragorn
| 14 | |||
23 | Unknown 22/23
| 4 | |||
23 | Smeagol
On the arete | 7 | |||
12 | ★★ Middle Earth
Up the gully, pleasant climb. Erschliesser: Neil Margetts Erstbegehung: Lindsay Gaydon, 2008 | 9 | |||
18 | Sauron
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. Last bolt below the anchors has no hanger. Erstbegehung: Derek Pienaar & Andries Smith, 2002 | 8 | |||
16 | Blue Flowers
Starts about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle. Single anchor point with a rap ring. Erschliesser: Rob Brinkworth, 2012 Erstbegehung: Rob Brinkworth, 2012 | 10m, 6 |
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