The Last Crag of the Century Principalement Escalade sportive 37 voies en paroi

Yes – the view is outstanding!! Possible to climb both pitches as one, but watch rope drag and forget meaningful communication.

1. [16] XXm

   [12D] Starts up the gully for ~4 bolts (better to use those on the left) before stepping L at a ledge. Up the pocketed slab just L of the arete. If you lower off, go down the gully off 2 anchors at a large ledge.

2. [14] XXm

   [10D] Start from the ledge (around the arete from the gully chains). Continue up the blocky arete, R past the tree (clip the right bolt here) up to anchors at the very top. The step up under the tree is way harder for short climbers.

If you wish to keep an eye on your 2nd (lowering off here is not easy), there is another set of anchors just before the very top on the right.

The gully. Now has a lot more bolts so it can be led by an 11 leader. Care still required. Better to use the bolts on the right. FA: Who knows (solo) 1991 BB: Gus(?), Clive

Climb straight up from the third bolt of 'Fudge Beats Burfee' through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30m+ route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.

Was a trad climb, rebolted recently. Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'As the World Disappears' and head for the two protruding trees, then climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top. The climb can be done in a single pitch.

Hack up the bushy slope just right of 'Caffeine Jitters' to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. Hector Pringle. Grade upgrade from 23 by FA in 2018.

1. [20] 20m

   Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's or huge cams and up to the obvious ledge.

2. [15] 12m

   Continue straight to the top.

Can be done in a single pitch.

Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing. You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back West towards the mouth of the tunnel. So end your day with this line to avoid the scrambles!

About 50m left of 'Heck, Tick'. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

Start at large flaring off-width crack. Climb the crack till it ends and move left to a tree stance. Step out left and climb crack till roof and rail left 2m. Pull through break and up headwall. Take small gear.

Starts 15m left of 'Follow The light'. Climb short overhanging crack. Step 1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear placements).

Coming from the East End, 20m from the tunnel mouth, climb the obvious roof crack by the big tree. From the halfway ledge climb the off-width to the top.