Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Campione | ||||||||
7b | ★★ Diedrolux | 30m | ★★ Excellent | Mar 14 Déc 2021 | ||||
Nice climbing, quite soft! about 6b to the first anchor.
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6b+ | ★ Astrogatto | 25m | ★★ Excellent | Mar 14 Déc 2021 | ||||
Very head heavy climbing on rock which does not appear to be very solid.
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8a | ★★★ Il gioco del mondo (L1+L2) | 32m | ★★★ Classique | Mar 14 Déc 2021 | ||||
All moves are very doable, but would need some time to connect everything. The hard (middle) part is super nice. Technical hard moves and a crimpy traverse.
Very runout to the anchor.
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7b+ | ★★★ Space Cake - avec Ivo | 35m | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 11 Déc 2021 | ||||
1 try
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7b+ | ★★★ Space Cake | 35m | ★★★ Classique | Lun 13 Déc 2021 | ||||
Very nice pumpy climbing! Happy about the OS - relatively easy to read due to a lack of alternative holds.
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7a+ | ★★ Joie de vivre - avec Ivo | 36m | ★★★ Classique | Sam 11 Déc 2021 | ||||
(w qd, 2nd Go) Needed a 2nd Go at the start and flashed the rest.
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7a+ | ★★ Joie de vivre | 36m | ★★ Excellent | Lun 13 Déc 2021 | ||||
Did the first 5 moves twice
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7a+ | ★★ Joie de vivre | 36m | ★ Bon | Mar 14 Déc 2021 | ||||
Super bouldery start with a dangerous 2nd clip. Nice middle part and a gardening finish...
|
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6c+ | ★★ Birra & patatine - avec Ivo | 30m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 11 Déc 2021 | ||||
(w qd)
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7c | ★★★ Nautilus - avec Ivo | 33m | ★★★ Classique | Dim 12 Déc 2021 | ||||
2 tries
|
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7c | ★★★ Nautilus | 33m | ★★★ Classique | Lun 13 Déc 2021 | ||||
Great line, with an interesting hard 4 move boulder crux and some reachy endurance climbing in the upper section where it is not over till the chain. Route was climbable but part of the crux sequence was a bit wet which made it slightly harder. I got close on my second go but missed a bit of sending luck
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6c | ★★★ Diedro - avec Ivo | 33m | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 12 Déc 2021 | ||||
(w/o qd) Athletic climbing and nice dihedral section at the top
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6c | ★★★ Diedro | 33m | ★★ Excellent | Lun 13 Déc 2021 | ||||
Better than indicated in the SAC guidebook
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Gola di Lago | ||||||||
5a | ★★ Brandi Belle | 20m | ★★★ Classique | Mer 24 Août 2022 | ||||
Two loose bolts. Second and third last as I remember. Bring a spanner.
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5a | ★★ Brandi Belle | 20m | ★★★ Classique | Lun 12 Sept 2022 | ||||
Feels harder than a 5a
|
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5a | ★★ La tesserete Gola di lago | 15m | ★★ Excellent | Mer 24 Août 2022 | ||||
It felt longer and looked longer than 15m. Fun.
|
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6a | ★★★ Segui il Dalai Lama - avec mh@hueberli.com | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 13 Mars 2021 | ||||
Schönste Route, nächstes mal Vorstieg
|
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6b | ★★★ Motel Capriasca - avec mh@hueberli.com | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 13 Mars 2021 | ||||
1 Hänger Überhang
|
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Rancate | ||||||||
4c | ★★★ spigolo della piramide | 30m | ★★★ Classique | Dim 27 Mars 2022 | ||||
easier than 4c. A nice climb
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Vezia | ||||||||
7a | Ciàpa ul Cip Ciòp - avec aurelie | 17m | Dim 18 Sept 2022 | |||||
Physique sur le haut mais avec de bonnes prises
|
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7a | ★ La Vetta della Viperetta - avec aurelie | 16m | ★ Bon | Dim 18 Sept 2022 | ||||
3-4 moves intenses puis rando jusqu’au relais
|
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Denti della vecchia Dany | ||||||||
5c |
★★★ Via del Tolo
- avec
Phillipa Knecht JO, Anna, Aurel
| 100m | ★★★ Classique | Sam 28 Mai 2022 | ||||
4er Seilschaft Tatzelwurm
|
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Denti della vecchia La Scalinatella | ||||||||
4c | ★★ Peduncoli - avec Aurel JO, Ella JO | 50m | ★★ Excellent | Ven 27 Mai 2022 | ||||
Erste SL sollte man noch was selber lege .
|
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Denti della vecchia Sasso Palazzo | ||||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Pilade | 25m | ★★★ Classique | Sam 7 Août 2021 | ||||
second go in the rain. crux was still dry. nice line
|
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Denti della vecchia Sparviero | ||||||||
6a+ | ★★ Jogurt (pitch I) | 20m | ★ Bon | Sam 3 Juil 2004 | ||||
Technical slab
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Due ore e mezza da Lugano | 22m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 3 Juil 2004 | ||||
Very nice. Movement
|
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6a+ | [no name 1] | 20m | Pas la peine | Sam 3 Juil 2004 | ||||
Nothing special
|
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7c | Nuovi orizzonti | 25m | Dans la moyenne | Sam 3 Juil 2004 | ||||
Phisical
|
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Alpen Ticino Sottoceneri Denti della vecchia Sasso del Gatto Est | ||||||||
5a | Non farti cadere la braccia - avec Sven JO | 15m | Ven 27 Mai 2022 | |||||
Auffahrtslager JO
Weite Abstände
|
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5c | Game over - avec Sven JO | 20m | Ven 27 Mai 2022 | |||||
Auffahrtslager JO
Weite Abstände
|
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5b | Milla la scintilla - avec Sven JO | 18m | Dans la moyenne | Ven 27 Mai 2022 | ||||
Auffahrtslager JO
Weite Abstände
|
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Alpen Ticino Locarno Speroni di Ponte Brolla | ||||||||
5b |
★★★ Quarzo
1
grimpé en tête par
Flo
3
grimpé en tête par
Flo
5
grimpé en tête par
Flo
6
grimpé en tête par
Flo
9
grimpé en tête par
Flo
10
grimpé en tête par
Flo
| 420m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | Mer 27 Août 2014 | ||||
Lovely slab climbing with an enjoyable steeper finish. Descent is not so pleasant.
|
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6a | ★★★ Quarzo | 420m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 20 Avr 2019 | ||||
Do not underestimate the pitch 9 (6a). This route is a wonder. So many different style. A must.
|
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6a | ★★★ Quarzo | 420m, 11 | Ven 14 Mai 2021 | |||||
Zombie + Quarzo combination
|
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6a |
★★★ Quarzo
1
5a
420m
2
5a
3
5a
4
5b
5
5b
6
5b
7
5a+
8
5a
9
6a
10
5b
11
4b
| 420m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | Ven 24 Sept 2021 | ||||
Amazing route
|
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6a |
★★★ Quarzo
- avec
Anika, Jakob
1
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
2
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
3
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
4
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
5
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
6
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
7
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
8
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
9
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
10
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
11
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
12
grimpé en tête par
Nicky
| 420m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | Lun 25 Oct. 2021 | ||||
Not so good as expected
|
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6a | ★★★ Quarzo - avec HansAlp | 420m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 14 Avr 2022 | ||||
Tolle tour. Einige Seillängen wurden mittels 70 Meter Seil zusammengehängt.
|
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5b |
★★★ Quarzo
- avec
guido
1
5a
grimpé en tête par
guido
3
5a
grimpé en tête par
guido
5
5b
grimpé en tête par
guido
| 420m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | Sam 13 Jan 2024 | ||||
Sehr kalter Tag im Januar, abbruch nach 5 SL wegen zu potenziell zu wenig Tageslicht. SL 1-3 waren sehr sehr kalt.
|
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5a | ★★ Zombi | 210m | ★ Bon | Dim 15 Mai 2016 | ||||
After 7 pitches on sustained slab I actually started to enjoy it at the end.
|
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5a |
★★ Zombi
- avec
Andrew Warrington
1
5a
210m
2
4c
3
4c
4
4c
5
4c
6
4c
7
4c
| 210m | ★★ Excellent | Mar 14 Sept 2021 | ||||
What a beautiful day out!
|
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Alpen Ticino Locarno Monte Garzo | ||||||||
5b ~5c |
★★ Harlem
1
2
3
4
5
| 280m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 11 Mars 2023 | ||||
I think the 5b grading is quite tight. I understand why it is 5b, given the region, but for most folks approaching it like a 5c would be more informative. My personal grading would be 5a,5c,5b+,5a,5a. Expect 4-5m runouts is some tricky parts and maybe up to 8m in easy parts at the top. Overall really cool climb.
|
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Alpen Ticino Locarno Monte Garzo Alhambra | ||||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Alhambra | 700m | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 9 Juin 2011 | ||||
Alternate leading
|
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6b+ |
★★★ Alhambra
- avec
Justin GUENEAU
11
6b+
45
12
6a+
30
13
6b
40
14
5a
30
15
6b
40
16
5b
18
17
6a
43
18
3c
12
| 620m | Sam 22 Août 2020 | |||||
Descente dans la voie au 10eme relais pour cause d'orage. Dommage!
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Alhambra | 700m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 10 Juil 2021 | ||||
Unten Plattig oben steil mit Leisten
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Alhambra | 700m | Sam 8 Avr 2023 | |||||
A half of all pitches were in lead and clean, the rest was in second with few slips and aids.
|
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Alpen Ticino Locarno Monte Garzo Pinocchio | ||||||||
6a | Pinocchio - avec Luki | 180m | Jeu 19 Nov. 2015 | |||||
Schwierige Plattenkleterei.
Mit 2*60m Seil kann 2 mal abgeseilt werden. Dragon-Cam 2 und 3 sind nützlich.
|
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5c ~5b+ | ★★ Pation | ★★ Excellent | Dim 26 Nov. 2023 | |||||
The route is very sustain, 2nd (6a) pitch was an easiest for us. Liked it very much!
|
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5c ~6a | ★★ Havanna | 280m | ★★ Excellent | Dim 14 Avr 2024 | ||||
tecnical slab, harder than 5C, big runout on some section.
|
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6a | La Serenissima - avec mantra | 500m | Sam 5 Oct. 2019 | |||||
What an adventure! I already knew I'm not the best slab climber, but this was an entirely different level. At first it seemed easy enough, but I soon realized that I had no idea how to work this. After trying the first pitch and seeing mantra fall several times in second pitch (a mere 6a!), I gave up on leading anything here. I did not regret that choice. We made it 5 pitches up, but accidentally went into a different route on the 5th, instead of traversing to the left. Assuming that the remainder would just he the same style but even harder, we decided not to track back and called it a day.
|
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6b+ | La Serenissima | 500m | Dans la moyenne | 2004 | ||||
Until the middle we climbed, where is the tree that fell down that day on that awful f...lard slab..the head wall was for shure nicer..
|
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6b+ | ★★ La Serenissima | 500m | ★★ Excellent | Dim 28 Mars 2010 | ||||
6Sl: 5c, 6a, 6b+,6b+,6b+,6b; mit Christian Einstieg oberhalb der Platte
|
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6b+ | ★★ La Serenissima | 500m | ★★ Excellent | Mar 13 Oct. 2020 | ||||
Schöne Tour. Leider wächst sie langsam zu.
|
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5a+ 5b | ★★ Harlem | 280m | ★★ Excellent | Mar 1 Juin 2021 | ||||
Watch out for loose flakes!
|
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Alpen Ticino Locarno Monte Garzo Brunone | ||||||||
5b ~5c | ★ Piaz - avec Marlène | 22m | ★ Bon | Sam 6 Avr 2024 | ||||
Via bella, purtroppo difficile da raggiungere a causa di un albero caduto ai piedi della parete
|
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Alpen Ticino Locarno Ponte Brolla East | ||||||||
6c | ★★ Pasternak - avec Michael Apolloni | 25m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 1 Oct. 2022 | ||||
Super neue Route mit boulder einstieg
|
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6b | ★★ Via Clara - avec Chrischu | 35m | ★ Bon | Mer 12 Avr 2023 | ||||
Hallelujah, no fall zone all the time 🙈 super technical, no foot holds and bolts quite far… scary
|
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7b+ 7b | ★★ Le Jardin - avec Julie | 30m | ★★ Excellent | Dim 6 Oct. 2019 | ||||
Soft as Kittens. No way this is 7c.
|
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7b | ★★ Le Jardin - avec Moxi | 30m | ★ Bon | Sam 15 Mai 2021 | ||||
Well... the climbing itself is very nice, but there are too many options to go into the 6b+ on the left. The way I climbed it, it's quite soft for 7b. Maybe more like 7a+
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Crew 69 - avec Tobias Bahmer | 30m | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 8 Oct. 2020 | ||||
Simply awesome, this route!
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Crew 69 (The crew 69) | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 29 Mars 2019 | ||||
A dream of route! Absolutely loved id. Tricky finish...
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Crew 69 (The crew 69) | 30m | ★★★ Classique | Sam 8 Jan 2022 | ||||
Molto bella
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Crew 69 - avec Chrischu | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 12 Avr 2023 | ||||
Super homogeneous on good holds. Perfect warm up ❤️
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Crew 69 | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 23 Mars 2024 | ||||
(w/o qd) Super cool route
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Crew 69 | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 23 Avr 2024 | ||||
Diese Route verdient eine Lohnerhöhung! Grande
|
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7a | ★★★ Café del mar - avec Philip | 30m | ★★ Excellent | Dim 7 Oct. 2018 | ||||
Puuh..war ganz schön knapp nochmal oben...nach 30m will man aber auch nicht direkt mit dem Umlenker vor der Nase fallen
|
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7a | ★★★ Café del mar - avec Pablo Pino | 30m | ★★★ Classique | Dim 13 Sept 2020 | ||||
Fell in the onsight right before the anchor..again.
|
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7a | ★★★ Café del mar - avec Chris | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 26 Sept 2020 | ||||
Sehr schön, technisch und oft nicht ganz offensichtlich. Am Ende musste ich noch recht kämpfen, damit es grad so noch gelangt hat.
|
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7a | ★★★ Café del mar - avec Tobias Bahmer | 30m | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 8 Oct. 2020 | ||||
This time no fail.
|
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7a | ★★★ Café del mar - avec Sabrina | 30m | ★★ Excellent | Lun 15 Mars 2021 | ||||
There goes the onsight....lets take the cheap way out and blame it on the rubber ;-)
|
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7c+ | ★★ Onda Magica - avec Sabrina | 30m | ★ Bon | Lun 15 Mars 2021 | ||||
Almost solved the crux (except for the very first move). Is a bit of a boulder problem.
|
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8a | ★★ Mantieni la tua forma - avec Moxi | 35m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 15 Mai 2021 | ||||
Nice and technical climbing with a powerful finish. Would be a cool project
|
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6a+ | ★★ Quasu - avec Hamish | 25m | ★★★ Classique | Lun 2 Mai 2016 | ||||
Lovely route. Had initially thought the last clip to the anchor was a long run out but pleasantly surprised that there was a bolt in between after all.
|
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6a+ ~6b | ★★ Quasu | 25m | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 23 Avr 2024 | ||||
Wunderschöne Route
|
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6c | ★★ Vergessene Welten - avec Pascal | 18m | Sam 10 Oct. 2020 | |||||
Missed a crucial foothold in the crux.
|
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6c | ★★ Vergessene Welten - avec Alex, Anne | 18m | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 23 Mars 2024 | ||||
(w/o qd)
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Gamba Leggere | 18m | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 2 Oct. 2017 | ||||
wonderful and challenging route which felt much harder than 6c+. Long moves and heelhooks everywhere with an awesome dyno at the end.
|
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6c+ ~7a | ★★★ Gamba Leggere — 5 essais | 18m | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 23 Avr 2024 | ||||
Elend langer boulder! Vergessene Welten deutlich einfacher!
|
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6b | ★★ Benissimo - avec Cat A | 25m | ★★★ Classique | Lun 2 Mai 2016 | ||||
This is a very bold route. Bolt spacings are fairly wide, and certain moves feel rather exposed.
Between the last bolt-hanger and the anchor there is a 5-6m run-out, with some big moves, protected only by a piton. The piton now looks very old and rusty.
Despite the exposure, this is a classic climb, with really great moves on very high quality rock. |
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6b | ★★ Benissimo - avec Pablo Pino | 25m | ★★ Excellent | Dim 13 Sept 2020 | ||||
Super cool, technical moves
|
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6b | ★★ Benissimo - avec Stefan | 25m | ★★★ Classique | Dim 24 Mars 2024 | ||||
(w/o qd, Hard) Route was rebolted
|
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6a+ | ★ Tutto - avec Julie | 25m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 5 Oct. 2019 | ||||
Linked the 6b+ into this
|
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6a+ | ★ Teva - avec Lilly | 12m | ★ Bon | Dim 6 Oct. 2019 | ||||
Rested at the first bolt, then did it again right away (didn't log that "first attempt")
|
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6c | ★★ Enigma - avec Steve T., Oriane | Lun 31 Oct. 2022 | ||||||
Actually I did Bonzay 6c but isn't listed here.
|
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5b | ★★ La Fessura - avec Cat A | 20m | ★★ Excellent | Lun 2 Mai 2016 | ||||
Great climb, reminiscent of dairy farm!!
|
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5b | ★★ La Fessura - avec Hamish | 20m | ★★★ Classique | Lun 2 Mai 2016 | ||||
awesome granite climbing for warm ups and/or lead beginners. Feels like Singapore's Dairy Farm climbing but on steroids and, of course, far better rock quality.
|
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5b | ★★ La Fessura | 20m | ★ Bon | Sam 3 Août 2019 | ||||
A few potential falls onto ledges wouldn’t recommend if it’s at your limit.
|
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6a | ★ Nina - avec Cury, Moxi, Philip | 20m | ★ Bon | Sam 15 Mai 2021 | ||||
Didn't manage the crux
|
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6a | ★ Nina - avec Catalina Torres | 20m | Sam 17 Sept 2022 | |||||
sandbag
|
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6a | ★ Nina | 20m | ★ Bon | Dim 2 Juil 2023 | ||||
Crux rather 6a+/b
|
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6b | ★★ Midlife Crisis - avec Julie | 18m, 10 | ★ Bon | Dim 6 Oct. 2019 | ||||
These bolts are shocking..
|
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6a | ★ Am Ende - avec Cury, Moxi, Philip | 18m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | Sam 15 Mai 2021 | ||||
Difficult and tricky at the very end. Without Moxi clipping the extension into the anchor I wouldn't have had the heart to go into the very last section. Actually you are pretty stable in the dihedral, but the last mantel move was soooo tough
|
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6a | Écopoint ★ Am Ende | 18m, 9 | Sam 20 Mai 2023 | |||||
Spannende Schlüsselstelle mit Riss am Ende der Route
|
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7a | ★★★ L artiglio del diavolo | 40m, 20 | ★★ Excellent | Sam 4 Juin 2016 | ||||
Rappel is 40m, not possible with a 70m rope.
|
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7a | ★★★ L artiglio del diavolo | 40m, 20 | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 9 Avr 2023 | ||||
Best route ever
|
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7a |
★★★ L artiglio del diavolo
- avec
Stefan
1
6c
2
7a
1 try | 40m, 20 | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 24 Mars 2024 | ||||
(w/o qd)
|
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6c | ★★ Vigliacco - avec Dascha, Matthias Fähse | ★★ Excellent | Sam 11 Juin 2022 | |||||
Bin mir nicht ganz sicher, ob es diese Linie war. Im SAC Führer als Variante von 'Eroe della diretissima' eingezeichnet: 'Leicht und Lang' eingestiegen und gerade aus in die Verschneidung. Nach der großen Schuppe nach rechts gehangelt, etwas die Kante entlang und später wieder nach links zurück Richtung Verschneidung.
|
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7a | ★★ Eroe della diretissima | 28m | ★★★ Classique | Sam 1 Oct. 2022 | ||||
Looks super nice and also climbs super nice! Endurance along a dihedral and technical climbing afterwards. 2nd go
|
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7b+ | ★★ Placca Nera (?) - avec Philip | 30m | ★★ Excellent | Lun 19 Avr 2021 | ||||
Same start as „Eroe“ and then to the left and at the top to the same anchor. We were told it is supposed to be 7c. But it‘s much easier than that.
|
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5a 5c | ★ Leicht lang (Leicht und Lang) | 25m | Sam 1 Oct. 2022 | |||||
Approach for the upper routes. Weird sit-up
|
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6b+ | ★ Uelis Problem | 4 | ★ Bon | Sam 3 Août 2019 | ||||
Tired...
|