Pilot Mountain State Park Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Frank Peters Keyser Peri Bolton Wesley Calkins Karen C Campbell Gome dsb3 Brent Poff John Cochenour Mark Thornton

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1. Pilot Mountain State Park 121 in Crag
- 1.1. Trailside Boulders 3 in Sector
- 1.2. Grindstone Mini Wall Boulders 3 in Sector
- 1.3. Campsite Boulders 1 in Sector
- 1.4. Three Bears 13 in Sector
- 1.5. Little Amphitheater 12 in Sector
- 1.6. The Beach 8 in Sector
- 1.7. Big Arete 11 in Sector
- 1.8. Devil In The White House 5 in Sector
- 1.9. Parking Lot 6 in Sector
- 1.10. Amphitheater 22 in Sector
- 1.11. Black Rain Wall 3 in Sector
- 1.12. Pool Hall 5 in Sector
- 1.13. Foreign Trade Zone 6 in Sector
- 1.14. Big Gully 11 in Sector
- 1.15. Copper Top 3 in Sector
- 1.16. Nuts And Bolts 1 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Pilot Mountain State Park 121 routes in Crag

Summary:

Saison

Escalade sportive, Moulinette et autres styles

Lat / Long: 36.341310, -80.478099

résumé

Mixture of sport, top-tope and trad routes, with a variety of face and overhung problems. Generally south facing. Climbers must register their intent in the main parking lot.

approche

Drive up Pilot Knob Park Road and park in main parking lot. Short walk along Ledge Springs Trail, eventually turning left at sign that says "Three Bears Gully" to a steep descent to the walls. There are climbs left and right of the Three Bears Gully.

Gates to summit close at 845 PM.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Walking On The Beach	5.9	Non-défini
2	Psychotic Reaction	5.10	Non-défini
3	Climax	5.12	Non-défini
4	Mr. Softee	5.10	Non-défini
5	Nuts and Bolts	5.11c	Non-défini
6	Arete Route	5.7	Non-défini
7	★★★ Unnamed (Chicken Bone) Sometimes graded at 5.8. Can set up top rope anchors from the parking lot above.	5.7	Sportive 89ft
8	Right Chicken Bone (Pilot Error) Bolted with DRBs with top rope access from parking lot above	5.7	Sportive 98ft

1.1. Trailside Boulders 3 routes in Sector

Summary:: Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 36.340426, -80.484257

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Unnamed V0	V0	Bloc 10ft
2	Unnamed V1	V1	Bloc 10ft
3	Unnamed V1 Right Side	V1	Bloc 10ft

1.2. Grindstone Mini Wall Boulders 3 routes in Sector

Summary:: Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 36.350398, -80.475446

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Cake Walk	V1/2	Bloc 10ft
2	Lumberjack	V4 R	Bloc 10ft
3	Reaction Time - Sd #SD	V6/7	Bloc 10ft

1.3. Campsite Boulders 1 route in Sector

Summary:: Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 36.347747, -80.473415

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Shutup	V8	Bloc 10ft

1.4. Three Bears 13 routes in Sector

Summary:: Moulinette et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 36.340230, -80.480792

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Creative Germs	5.6/7	Moulinette
2	Goldilocks / Goldilox	5.5/6	Moulinette 50ft
3	★★ Papa Bear	5.10b/c	Moulinette 40ft
4	★★ Mama Bear	5.10a - d	Moulinette 30ft
5	★★ Baby Bear	5.11a	Moulinette
6	★★ Gentle Ben	5.10a	Sportive
7	Any Major Dude	5.11c/d	Sportive 30ft
8	Any Minor Dude	5.11c	Sportive 50ft
9	Dude On The Corner	5.9	Moulinette 50ft
10	Honey Pot	5.5	Moulinette
11	★ Every Major Dudette	5.5/6	Moulinette
12	Howdy Dude	5.7	Moulinette 60ft
13	Unknown	5.5	Moulinette

1.5. Little Amphitheater 12 routes in Sector

Summary:: Moulinette, Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 36.340215, -80.480785

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Kmf-Kiss My Feet	5.7	Moulinette 50ft
2	★ Kma / Kiss my ass	5.8	Moulinette 60ft
3	★★ Hot Yoga	5.10a/b	Sportive 50ft
4	★ Dirty Rotten Scoundrel	5.6/7	Moulinette 60ft
5	★ Place Your Bet	5.6/7	Moulinette 50ft
6	★ Grandpa's Belay	5.6/7	Moulinette 50ft
7	Erocktica - left start	5.10+	Moulinette 50ft
8	★★ Erocktica	5.10c	Sportive 50ft
9	Outhouse TR friendly	5.7	Trad 50ft
10	★★ Pee Break can also be top roped	5.6	Trad 50ft
11	Pee Break Right - Closed Route	5.6	Moulinette
12	Buzzard Breath	5.7	Moulinette 65ft

1.6. The Beach 8 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.340211, -80.480824

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Scarface	5.6	Moulinette 40ft
2	Charlie And The Choss Factory	5.6	Trad 45ft
3	Body Surfin' / Body Surfin	5.7	Moulinette 60ft
4	★★ The Wave	5.11a	Trad
5	★★ Hawaii 5-O / Hawaii Five-o	5.11a/b	Trad
6	Spin Drift	5.9	Moulinette 50ft
7	Goofy Foot	5.7	Moulinette 50ft
8	Right Break	5.9	Trad 50ft

1.7. Big Arete 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalade sportive et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.340204, -80.480799

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Unknown	5.8	Moulinette 30ft
2	Hunger Strike	5.7	Moulinette
3	Bet Ya Can't Eat Just One	5.6	Moulinette
4	Man Overboard	5.10c	Sportive 70ft
5	Anchors Away	5.11d	Sportive 75ft, 7
6	Pillar Assault FA: Bryce Mahoney	5.8	Sportive 79ft, 11
7	★★★ Smooth Sailing / Lloyd Would Have Liked It	5.10a/b	Sportive 80ft, 8
8	Butterfingers FA: John Black	5.11a	Sportive 59ft, 7
9	Argonaut FA: Jason Bryant	5.11a/b	Sportive 79ft, 9
10	Skylark FA: Kyle Lewis	5.11d	Sportive 79ft, 10
11	On Edge	5.12a	Sportive 39ft, 4

1.8. Devil In The White House 5 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 36.340203, -80.480730

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Ethics In Bondage	5.12b	Sportive 50ft
2	Hera's Bondage	5.11d	Sportive 50ft
3	★★ The Herculean Test	5.11a	Trad
4	★★ Devil In The White House	5.10c/d	Sportive 60ft
5	Steaming Piles / Grunge	5.6	Trad 85ft

1.9. Parking Lot 6 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.339626, -80.480998

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Everyone Is Watching	5.7	Sportive 50ft
2	Fat Boy 5.11	5.11	Moulinette 30ft
3	Thin To Win No feet start from large boulder. DRBs for anchor	5.10b	Sportive 80ft
4	★★ Chicken Bone	5.8	Sportive 90ft
5	Pilot Error / Right Chicken Bone	5.8	Sportive 100ft
6	Vegomatic Chimney to the right of Thin To Win. DRBs for anchors	5.7	Trad 89ft

1.10. Amphitheater 22 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.340205, -80.483521

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Buzzard's Breath	5.8	Sportive 49ft, 8
2	★ I'M Flyin' / I'm Flyin	5.7	Moulinette 50ft
3	Too Old To Rock And Roll right of Buzzard Breath. Boulder move to get to the top.	5.10c	Sportive 49ft, 6
4	Surry County Ethics	5.10a	Trad
5	Syzygy	5.11	Trad 45ft
6	★★ Overhang Hangover / Over hanging hangover	5.11b	Sportive 60ft
7	Black And Blue Velvet	5.13a PG13	Sportive 50ft
8	★★ Blind Prophet	5.12b/c PG13	Sportive 70ft
9	Blind Prophet Lite	5.11b PG13	Sportive 50ft
10	Mr. Henar	5.12a/b PG13	Sportive 70ft
11	Henar Lite	5.10c	Sportive
12	★ Crackin' Up / Crackin up	5.7	Trad 50ft
13	Born To Crimp FA: Emma Briggs	5.10b	Sportive 50ft, 5
14	★ Turkey Shoot To the left of Mild Mannered Secretary (when facing wall). 3 RB to DRB anchor. Run out.	5.8	Sportive 50ft, 3
15	★ Mild Mannered Secretary Right of Turkey Shoot (facing the wall). 3RB to DRB anchor	5.7	Sportive 50ft, 3
16	Arms Control	5.11	Sportive 75ft
17	★★ Pump Street Left of Cow Patty Bingo	5.10a	Sportive 66ft, 6
18	★ Cow Patty Bingo / Cowpaddy Bingo Climb past 3 fairly well-spaced bolts to the 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip the first bolt or supplement with gear.	5.9	Sportive 65ft, 3
19	When Shrimp Learn To Whistle / When Shrimps Learn to Whistle	5.11a/b	Sportive 60ft
20	Single Handed Sailor	5.11	Sportive 75ft
21	Dihedral Route	5.7	Trad 70ft
22	★★ Pole Dancing	5.7	Sportive 60ft, 7

1.11. Black Rain Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:: Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 36.340003, -80.483697

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Pyscho-Metric	5.11a	Sportive 70ft
2	My Husband Is Going To Kill Me / Start The Car	5.7	Sportive 60ft
3	★ Black Rain	5.8/9	Sportive 80ft

1.12. Pool Hall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:: Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.341571, -80.487161

	Route	Grade	Style
1	7-Ball	5.7	Moulinette 25ft
2	10-Ball	5.10	Moulinette 40ft
3	★★ 9-Ball	5.9	Moulinette 50ft
4	★ 8-Ball	5.8	Moulinette 40ft
5	★★ Snooker	5.9	Moulinette 40ft

1.13. Foreign Trade Zone 6 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.340197, -80.480836

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Cowboys And Heroes / Cowboys & Heroes	5.7 - 9	Trad 40ft
2	Teflon Toes	5.11a/b	Sportive 55ft
3	I Gotta Wear Shades	5.9	Moulinette
4	Eurozone	5.10a	Sportive 55ft
5	Foreign Trade Zone	5.10c/d	Trad
6	Bat Out Of Hell	5.11b	Trad

1.14. Big Gully 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 36.340204, -80.480694

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Look Before You Leak	5.7	Trad 60ft
2	Old Trad Route	5.8	Trad 85ft
3	Skull & Bones From Mt Proj: This is now a fully-equipped sport route (bolted with permission from the first ascent party) with 10 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor. Climb starts below a giant, dead pine tree and follows an obvious corner and crack system straight to the tree. FA: Woody Holliman	5.8	Sportive 85ft, 10
4	Walk the Plank Starts left of Skull & Bones and trends diagonally to the left. FA: Woody Holliman	5.8	Sportive 59ft, 8
5	True Grits bolted anchor FA: Dave Hause	5.8	Sportive 79ft, 10
6	Hurly-Burly FA: Woody Holliman	5.9	Sportive 79ft, 11
7	Wrestling with the Textonic	5.9	Sportive 66ft, 8
8	Pontius Pilot The obvious bolted arete to a deep ledge under the roof.	5.10a/b	Sportive 75ft, 8
9	Casablanca FA: Jason Bryant	5.10a/b	Sportive 49ft, 5
10	Play It Again Climb the obvious short finger crack to jugs below the roof. Move right to clip the third bolt of Casablanca and follow it to the top.	5.10a/b	Trad mixte 39ft, 3
11	Venus Scribner	5.10b	Sportive 49ft, 5

1.15. Copper Top 3 routes in Sector

Summary:: Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.340204, -80.480729

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Duracell	5.8	Moulinette 60ft
2	Oscar Myer / Oscar Meyer	5.10	Moulinette 50ft
3	Coppertop	5.8	Moulinette 50ft

1.16. Nuts And Bolts 1 route in Sector

Summary:: Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 36.340226, -80.480823

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Wet Spot	5.10d	Moulinette

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5.5		Honey Pot	Moulinette	1.4. Three Bears
		Unknown	Moulinette	1.4. Three Bears
5.5/6	★	Every Major Dudette	Moulinette	1.4. Three Bears
		Goldilocks	Moulinette 50ft	1.4. Three Bears
5.6	★★	Pee Break	Trad 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
		Pee Break Right - Closed Route	Moulinette	1.5. Little Amphitheater
		Charlie And The Choss Factory	Trad 45ft	1.6. The Beach
		Scarface	Moulinette 40ft	1.6. The Beach
		Bet Ya Can't Eat Just One	Moulinette	1.7. Big Arete
		Steaming Piles	Trad 85ft	1.8. Devil In The White House
5.6/7		Creative Germs	Moulinette	1.4. Three Bears
	★	Dirty Rotten Scoundrel	Moulinette 60ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
	★	Grandpa's Belay	Moulinette 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
	★	Place Your Bet	Moulinette 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
5.7		Arete Route	Non-défini	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
		Right Chicken Bone (Pilot Error)	Sportive 98ft	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
	★★★	Unnamed (Chicken Bone)	Sportive 89ft	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
		Howdy Dude	Moulinette 60ft	1.4. Three Bears
		Buzzard Breath	Moulinette 65ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
		Kmf-Kiss My Feet	Moulinette 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
		Outhouse	Trad 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
		Body Surfin'	Moulinette 60ft	1.6. The Beach
		Goofy Foot	Moulinette 50ft	1.6. The Beach
		Hunger Strike	Moulinette	1.7. Big Arete
		Everyone Is Watching	Sportive 50ft	1.9. Parking Lot
		Vegomatic	Trad 89ft	1.9. Parking Lot
	★	Crackin' Up	Trad 50ft	1.10. Amphitheater
		Dihedral Route	Trad 70ft	1.10. Amphitheater
	★	I'M Flyin'	Moulinette 50ft	1.10. Amphitheater
	★	Mild Mannered Secretary	Sportive 50ft, 3	1.10. Amphitheater
	★★	Pole Dancing	Sportive 60ft, 7	1.10. Amphitheater
		My Husband Is Going To Kill Me	Sportive 60ft	1.11. Black Rain Wall
		7-Ball	Moulinette 25ft	1.12. Pool Hall
		Look Before You Leak	Trad 60ft	1.14. Big Gully
5.8	★	Kma	Moulinette 60ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
		Pillar Assault	Sportive 79ft, 11	1.7. Big Arete
		Unknown	Moulinette 30ft	1.7. Big Arete
	★★	Chicken Bone	Sportive 90ft	1.9. Parking Lot
		Pilot Error	Sportive 100ft	1.9. Parking Lot
	★★	Buzzard's Breath	Sportive 49ft, 8	1.10. Amphitheater
	★	Turkey Shoot	Sportive 50ft, 3	1.10. Amphitheater
	★	8-Ball	Moulinette 40ft	1.12. Pool Hall
		Old Trad Route	Trad 85ft	1.14. Big Gully
		Skull & Bones	Sportive 85ft, 10	1.14. Big Gully
		True Grits	Sportive 79ft, 10	1.14. Big Gully
		Walk the Plank	Sportive 59ft, 8	1.14. Big Gully
		Coppertop	Moulinette 50ft	1.15. Copper Top
		Duracell	Moulinette 60ft	1.15. Copper Top
V0		Unnamed V0	Bloc 10ft	1.1. Trailside Boulders
5.7 - 9		Cowboys And Heroes	Trad 40ft	1.13. Foreign Trade Zone
5.8/9	★	Black Rain	Sportive 80ft	1.11. Black Rain Wall
5.9	★	Walking On The Beach	Non-défini	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
		Dude On The Corner	Moulinette 50ft	1.4. Three Bears
		Right Break	Trad 50ft	1.6. The Beach
		Spin Drift	Moulinette 50ft	1.6. The Beach
	★	Cow Patty Bingo	Sportive 65ft, 3	1.10. Amphitheater
	★★	9-Ball	Moulinette 50ft	1.12. Pool Hall
	★★	Snooker	Moulinette 40ft	1.12. Pool Hall
		I Gotta Wear Shades	Moulinette	1.13. Foreign Trade Zone
		Hurly-Burly	Sportive 79ft, 11	1.14. Big Gully
		Wrestling with the Textonic	Sportive 66ft, 8	1.14. Big Gully
5.10a	★★	Gentle Ben	Sportive	1.4. Three Bears
	★★	Pump Street	Sportive 66ft, 6	1.10. Amphitheater
		Surry County Ethics	Trad	1.10. Amphitheater
		Eurozone	Sportive 55ft	1.13. Foreign Trade Zone
5.10a/b	★★	Hot Yoga	Sportive 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
	★★★	Smooth Sailing	Sportive 80ft, 8	1.7. Big Arete
		Casablanca	Sportive 49ft, 5	1.14. Big Gully
		Play It Again	Trad mixte 39ft, 3	1.14. Big Gully
		Pontius Pilot	Sportive 75ft, 8	1.14. Big Gully
5.10b		Thin To Win	Sportive 80ft	1.9. Parking Lot
		Born To Crimp	Sportive 50ft, 5	1.10. Amphitheater
		Venus Scribner	Sportive 49ft, 5	1.14. Big Gully
5.10b/c	★★	Papa Bear	Moulinette 40ft	1.4. Three Bears
V1		Unnamed V1	Bloc 10ft	1.1. Trailside Boulders
		Unnamed V1 Right Side	Bloc 10ft	1.1. Trailside Boulders
5.10c	★★	Erocktica	Sportive 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
		Man Overboard	Sportive 70ft	1.7. Big Arete
		Henar Lite	Sportive	1.10. Amphitheater
		Too Old To Rock And Roll	Sportive 49ft, 6	1.10. Amphitheater
5.10		Mr. Softee	Non-défini	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
		Psychotic Reaction	Non-défini	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
		10-Ball	Moulinette 40ft	1.12. Pool Hall
		Oscar Myer	Moulinette 50ft	1.15. Copper Top
5.10a - d	★★	Mama Bear	Moulinette 30ft	1.4. Three Bears
5.10c/d	★★	Devil In The White House	Sportive 60ft	1.8. Devil In The White House
		Foreign Trade Zone	Trad	1.13. Foreign Trade Zone
5.10d		Wet Spot	Moulinette	1.16. Nuts And Bolts
5.10+		Erocktica - left start	Moulinette 50ft	1.5. Little Amphitheater
V1/2		Cake Walk	Bloc 10ft	1.2. Grindstone Mini Wall Boulders
5.11a	★★	Baby Bear	Moulinette	1.4. Three Bears
	★★	The Wave	Trad	1.6. The Beach
		Butterfingers	Sportive 59ft, 7	1.7. Big Arete
	★★	The Herculean Test	Trad	1.8. Devil In The White House
		Pyscho-Metric	Sportive 70ft	1.11. Black Rain Wall
5.11a/b	★★	Hawaii 5-O	Trad	1.6. The Beach
		Argonaut	Sportive 79ft, 9	1.7. Big Arete
		When Shrimp Learn To Whistle	Sportive 60ft	1.10. Amphitheater
		Teflon Toes	Sportive 55ft	1.13. Foreign Trade Zone
5.11b	★★	Overhang Hangover	Sportive 60ft	1.10. Amphitheater
		Bat Out Of Hell	Trad	1.13. Foreign Trade Zone
5.11b PG13		Blind Prophet Lite	Sportive 50ft	1.10. Amphitheater
5.11c		Nuts and Bolts	Non-défini	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
		Any Minor Dude	Sportive 50ft	1.4. Three Bears
5.11		Fat Boy 5.11	Moulinette 30ft	1.9. Parking Lot
		Arms Control	Sportive 75ft	1.10. Amphitheater
		Single Handed Sailor	Sportive 75ft	1.10. Amphitheater
		Syzygy	Trad 45ft	1.10. Amphitheater
5.11c/d		Any Major Dude	Sportive 30ft	1.4. Three Bears
5.11d		Anchors Away	Sportive 75ft, 7	1.7. Big Arete
		Skylark	Sportive 79ft, 10	1.7. Big Arete
		Hera's Bondage	Sportive 50ft	1.8. Devil In The White House
V4 R		Lumberjack	Bloc 10ft	1.2. Grindstone Mini Wall Boulders
5.12a		On Edge	Sportive 39ft, 4	1.7. Big Arete
5.12a/b PG13		Mr. Henar	Sportive 70ft	1.10. Amphitheater
5.12b		Ethics In Bondage	Sportive 50ft	1.8. Devil In The White House
5.12b/c PG13	★★	Blind Prophet	Sportive 70ft	1.10. Amphitheater
5.12		Climax	Non-défini	1. Pilot Mountain State Park
V6/7		Reaction Time - Sd	Bloc 10ft	1.2. Grindstone Mini Wall Boulders
5.13a PG13		Black And Blue Velvet	Sportive 50ft	1.10. Amphitheater
V8		Shutup	Bloc 10ft	1.3. Campsite Boulders