Laurel Knob Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Frank Peters Charles Cooper rick Simon Dale

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1. Laurel Knob 85 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Laurel Knob 85 routes in Crag

Summary:

Saison

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 35.152184, -83.056159

résumé

Slab, cracks and long water grooves on superb granite. Routes top out at about 1000 feet of climbing or more.

description

Tallest Crag available in this part of the country, very high quality granite, challenging, wild feel to all the clubs.

Limitations de l'accès

The road in is private and can only be used if you have direct permission. LK is now owned by CCC so there are no other access issues.

approche

Hike in is about three miles, steep and wild. Park at Saltrock Gap parking area in Cashiers valley off Breedlove road at TR448 and follow TR449 (gravel) 600 foot roped descent is required to get down to Laurel Knob climbs. First climb you come to is Manatee Fluid.

éthique

No camping, no pets, no fires, no guns, no amplified music, cliff top is off limits. Route development must be done via CCC

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Groover Rack to 4 inches. Rap the entire FF route, 5 raps. Use two ropes, 70 meter recommended. Skip FF anchors at p 6 and 4. Anchors at top of pitch 1 are 150ft down and 40 ft left of pitch 2 anchors, so be careful to stay left and find them. FA: jeep gaskins & julia webb, 1980	5.8	Trad 1400ft, 7
2	★★★ Groover variation Better finish than the standard route. Do the first four pitches of the Groover original route then follow the crack to the right for two pitches, finishing in the groove for Forbidden Fruit at the FF anchors. Rap the entire FF route 5 raps. Use two ropes, 70 meter recommended. Skip FF anchors at p 6 and 4. Anchors at top of pitch 1 are 150ft down and 40 ft left of pitch 2 anchors, so be careful to stay left and find them. FA: mike fischesser & liz cornish, 1982	5.8	Trad 960ft, 6
3	★★★ Have and Not Need Very serious slab climbing with lots of runout. FA: teddy begoon & todd offenbacher, 1996	5.10c	Trad mixte 460ft, 3, 14
4	★★★ Seconds Seven or eight pitches but last pitch is dirty and uninteresting. Route generally follows water grooves that are shallow and slabby at first but become more like an offwidth higher up, around pitch 5 or so. Very hard climbing for the grade with adequate but limited protection so leader should be solid for the grade especially for tricky slab climbing. This route should be avoided when it is iced due to serious possibility of ice fall. P1: climb slab to small roof with horizontal crack which takes gear well. Climb right around the roof then straight up to anchor bolts. P 2: climb shabby groove then move left onto balancy 5.8+ slab just left of groove for best climbing. Clip one or two bolts for this section then trend back to the groove on your way to bolted anchors. P3 - Climb straight up the groove past a bolt. Either stay in the groove or move right onto the face to a good belay ledge with bolted belay.   5.8+ P4 - more challenging slab to a hanging belay. 5.8 + P5: follow the groove which becomes almost an offwidth at this point. 5.8+ .  P6 - crux pitch. Move out right into the water groove...follow this up to a bolt on the left. Clip. Bolt on the left, then pull over a slight bulge. Good offwidth technique is very useful here. A Blue (3) cam can be placed above the bulge. Follow the groove on up to anchors on the left.   Crux move is 5.9. P7 - Follow the groove to anchors. 5.6 P8 - Dirty. More trouble than it is worth. 5.5 Rappel down the route with two ropes from belay anchor. First Ascent: Peter Young, John Whisnant, Jim Marshall - 1972 FA: 1972	5.8	Trad mixte 1100ft, 7, 3
5	Girl Friend Route	5.8	Trad 300ft, 2
6	Stingray	5.9 PG13	Trad 190ft
7	Aloha Slab	5.10b R	Trad 190ft
8	Quantum Mechanic's Arête	5.11+	Trad 95ft
9	Wormhole	5.9	Trad 110ft
10	Mechanical Bull	5.11a PG13	Trad 70ft
11	Annie Get Your Guns	5.10	Trad 300ft, 2
12	Puff The Magic Dragon	5.10a	Trad 200ft
13	Wild Wild West	5.11 PG13	Trad 400ft, 2
14	O.K. Corral	5.10d	Trad 150ft
15	Dillard Arête	5.12b	Trad 400ft, 3
16	Clippidy Doodah...	5.11c	Sportive 300ft, 3
17	Hypocrite's Corner	5.10c	Trad 330ft, 3
18	Clowns To The Left Of Me	5.10 PG13	Trad 50ft
19	Jokers To The Right	5.10 PG13	Trad 90ft
20	Finger Lickin' Good	5.10+	Trad 350ft, 3
21	The Funky Chicken	5.11-	Trad 350ft, 2
22	Don't Call Me Surely	5.8 R	Trad 180ft
23	Black Flag	5.9	Trad 260ft, 2
24	Walkin' Da Plank	5.10+ PG13	Trad 190ft
25	Keel Hauled	5.10 PG13	Trad 200ft
26	The Gibbet	5.11 PG13	Trad 500ft, 3
27	Mutiny	5.9 PG13	Trad 500ft, 3
28	Buried Treasure	5.10 PG13	Trad 500ft, 3
29	Arrested Development	5.12-	Trad 800ft, 45
30	Pirate's Cove	5.9	Trad 550ft, 4
31	Pirate's Cove Direct Finish	5.10+ PG13	Trad 400ft, 2
32	Pirate's Cove Alt Start	5.8 R	Trad 190ft
33	Groover - Fischesser Finish	5.8	Trad 1300ft, 9
34	Groover - Gaskin Finish	5.8	Trad 900ft, 6
35	Dike Hike - Monster Groove	5.11a	Trad 1000ft, 6
36	Fruit Of The Poisonous Tree	5.12c	Trad 820ft, 6
37	Monster Groove Direct Start	5.12b A0	Trad 1000ft, 7
38	Stellar Sonar	5.10 PG13	Trad 2
39	Monster Groove Reject Start	5.12b	Trad 1000ft, 7
40	Rejected Radar	5.12a A0	Trad 950ft, 7
41	Defective Sonar	5.12a	Trad 800ft, 8
42	Unfathomable	5.11b A1 PG13	Trad 950ft, 7
43	Fathom	5.10a	Trad 1000ft, 8
44	Cruising With The Top Down	5.10	Trad 80ft
45	Stegg, Roy Fathom Alt.	5.9 PG13	Trad 350ft, 2
46	Fathom Direct	5.10+ R	Trad 1000ft, 8
47	Fathom Escape Hatch	5.11 A2	Trad 880ft, 7
48	Steep In The Teacups Of Laurel	5.12d	Trad 940ft, 6
49	Hone Ranger	5.11a/b X	Trad 5
50	Permission Granite	5.11	Trad 800ft, 5
51	Mirage Direct Finish	5.12b	Trad 210ft, 2
52	Mirage	5.12 PG13	Trad 1100ft, 7
53	Oasis	5.11-	Trad 1000ft, 6
54	Squirrely Man	5.10	Trad 230ft, 2
55	High & Dry	5.11-	Trad 700ft, 5
56	Stemming Laurel	5.10+	Trad 750ft, 5
57	Old Times' Sake	5.10	Trad 600ft, 4
58	Central Pillar Direct Finish	5.11b/c	Trad 100ft
59	Central Pillar Of Laurel	5.10	Trad 500ft, 5
60	Wild Turkeys	5.11- PG13	Trad
61	A Second Way alternate Finish To Seconds	5.10-	Trad 900ft, 7
62	Dry Streak	5.10+ PG13	Trad 3
63	Canyons Of Laurel	5.11b	Trad 850ft, 6
64	Cotton Pony	5.11	Trad 600ft, 3
65	Friction Addiction	5.10+	Trad 500ft, 5
66	★★★ Route Of The Living Dead	5.11a	Trad 700ft, 4
67	Use It Or Luge It	5.10+	Trad 700ft, 4
68	Use It Express	5.10a	Trad 180ft
69	Use It Or Luge It Direct Start	5.11c	Trad 60ft
70	Nanna Gets Her Groove On	5.12	Trad 600ft, 4
71	Nana's Bananas	5.11+	Trad 650ft, 4
72	The Legendary "f" Bomb	5.11-	Trad 600ft, 4
73	Get It While It's Hot	5.10d PG13	Trad 720ft, 4
74	Groovin' In The Name Of The Laurel	5.10c R	Trad 600ft, 4
75	Manatee Left	5.7	Trad 180ft
76	Manatee Fluid	5.9	Trad 600ft, 4
77	Better Late Than Never	5.9	Trad 400ft, 2
78	Rock Eating Tree	5.11b PG13	Trad 400ft, 3
79	Laurel's Snake Dike	5.11b	Trad 350ft, 3
80	Two Rattlers In Your Face	5.8	Trad 400ft, 2
81	shimer Down	5.9	Trad 350ft, 3
82	Biopsy	5.8	Trad 500ft, 5
83	Laurel's Girdle	5.9 PG13	Trad 2300ft, 14
84	Before The Settlers Arrive	5.7	Trad 190ft
85	Frolictown	5.7	Trad 500ft, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
5.7		Before The Settlers Arrive	Trad 190ft
		Frolictown	Trad 500ft, 3
		Manatee Left	Trad 180ft
5.8		Biopsy	Trad 500ft, 5
		Girl Friend Route	Trad 300ft, 2
	★★★	Groover	Trad 1400ft, 7
		Groover - Fischesser Finish	Trad 1300ft, 9
		Groover - Gaskin Finish	Trad 900ft, 6
	★★★	Groover variation	Trad 960ft, 6
	★★★	Seconds	Trad mixte 1100ft, 7, 3
		Two Rattlers In Your Face	Trad 400ft, 2
5.8 R		Don't Call Me Surely	Trad 180ft
		Pirate's Cove Alt Start	Trad 190ft
5.9		Better Late Than Never	Trad 400ft, 2
		Black Flag	Trad 260ft, 2
		Manatee Fluid	Trad 600ft, 4
		Pirate's Cove	Trad 550ft, 4
		Wormhole	Trad 110ft
		shimer Down	Trad 350ft, 3
5.9 PG13		Laurel's Girdle	Trad 2300ft, 14
		Mutiny	Trad 500ft, 3
		Stegg, Roy Fathom Alt.	Trad 350ft, 2
		Stingray	Trad 190ft
5.10-		A Second Way	Trad 900ft, 7
5.10a		Fathom	Trad 1000ft, 8
		Puff The Magic Dragon	Trad 200ft
		Use It Express	Trad 180ft
5.10b R		Aloha Slab	Trad 190ft
5.10c	★★★	Have and Not Need	Trad mixte 460ft, 3, 14
		Hypocrite's Corner	Trad 330ft, 3
5.10c R		Groovin' In The Name Of The Laurel	Trad 600ft, 4
5.10		Annie Get Your Guns	Trad 300ft, 2
		Central Pillar Of Laurel	Trad 500ft, 5
		Cruising With The Top Down	Trad 80ft
		Old Times' Sake	Trad 600ft, 4
		Squirrely Man	Trad 230ft, 2
5.10 PG13		Buried Treasure	Trad 500ft, 3
		Clowns To The Left Of Me	Trad 50ft
		Jokers To The Right	Trad 90ft
		Keel Hauled	Trad 200ft
		Stellar Sonar	Trad 2
5.10d		O.K. Corral	Trad 150ft
5.10d PG13		Get It While It's Hot	Trad 720ft, 4
5.10+		Finger Lickin' Good	Trad 350ft, 3
		Friction Addiction	Trad 500ft, 5
		Stemming Laurel	Trad 750ft, 5
		Use It Or Luge It	Trad 700ft, 4
5.10+ PG13		Dry Streak	Trad 3
		Pirate's Cove Direct Finish	Trad 400ft, 2
		Walkin' Da Plank	Trad 190ft
5.10+ R		Fathom Direct	Trad 1000ft, 8
5.11-		High & Dry	Trad 700ft, 5
		Oasis	Trad 1000ft, 6
		The Funky Chicken	Trad 350ft, 2
		The Legendary "f" Bomb	Trad 600ft, 4
5.11- PG13		Wild Turkeys	Trad
5.11a		Dike Hike - Monster Groove	Trad 1000ft, 6
	★★★	Route Of The Living Dead	Trad 700ft, 4
5.11a PG13		Mechanical Bull	Trad 70ft
5.11a/b X		Hone Ranger	Trad 5
5.11b		Canyons Of Laurel	Trad 850ft, 6
		Laurel's Snake Dike	Trad 350ft, 3
5.11b A1 PG13		Unfathomable	Trad 950ft, 7
5.11b PG13		Rock Eating Tree	Trad 400ft, 3
5.11b/c		Central Pillar Direct Finish	Trad 100ft
5.11c		Clippidy Doodah...	Sportive 300ft, 3
		Use It Or Luge It Direct Start	Trad 60ft
5.11		Cotton Pony	Trad 600ft, 3
		Permission Granite	Trad 800ft, 5
5.11 A2		Fathom Escape Hatch	Trad 880ft, 7
5.11 PG13		The Gibbet	Trad 500ft, 3
		Wild Wild West	Trad 400ft, 2
5.11+		Nana's Bananas	Trad 650ft, 4
		Quantum Mechanic's Arête	Trad 95ft
5.12-		Arrested Development	Trad 800ft, 45
5.12a		Defective Sonar	Trad 800ft, 8
5.12a A0		Rejected Radar	Trad 950ft, 7
5.12b		Dillard Arête	Trad 400ft, 3
		Mirage Direct Finish	Trad 210ft, 2
		Monster Groove Reject Start	Trad 1000ft, 7
5.12b A0		Monster Groove Direct Start	Trad 1000ft, 7
5.12c		Fruit Of The Poisonous Tree	Trad 820ft, 6
5.12		Nanna Gets Her Groove On	Trad 600ft, 4
5.12 PG13		Mirage	Trad 1100ft, 7
5.12d		Steep In The Teacups Of Laurel	Trad 940ft, 6