Noeud |
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Rumney
Excellent sport climbing on good schist and quartzite. |
Bakery Wall
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
Bakery Wall |
5.8 G
Mr Mailman
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.11a
Sport Moves
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.10a
Golden Gloves
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.10d
Rookie Sensation
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Parking Lot Wall
The closest wall to the parking lot, making it a favourite -- it has a variety of easier routes. |
The Parking Lot Wall |
5.8
Shemp Lives
Often wet. Has a large down/right facing corner -- climb up easyish ground, then move left around the corner and up. |
5.7
Dead Sea Equestrian
Often wet. Climb a series of nice flakes up the usually wet rock. |
5.10b
★ Red Sea Pedestrian
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.8
★ Squeeze My Lemon
Climb the line of glue-in bolts to the left of the big flake/chimney that "Glory Jean's" ascends. Anchors are hidden from the ground, but up and left of the (visible) anchors for "Glory Jean's". Route is often wet, but good climbing if dry. |
5.7
★ Glory Jean's
Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors. |
5.6
★ Easily Amused
Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees. The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon". |
5.10b
Rubicon
Extension of "Easily Amused". Can be done as a 2nd pitch, but also easily done in a single push clipping one of the bolts of the Easily Amused anchors along the way. |
5.9
★ Easily Aroused
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.7
★ Rise And Shine
Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors. |
5.10a
★ Egg McMeadows
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.4 R
Centerfold
Climb the (usually wet) left ascending crack/gully. |
5.8
★★ Chloe's Breakfast Special
Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area. Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section. |
5.9
★★ Quinn/Callaghan Route
Climb up the almost always wet, but low-angle rock left of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" ascends to a high first bolt, then up the great climbing up the steep face above. Another long route for the Parking Lot wall. |
5.7
★ Shealyn's Way
Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet. |
5.2
A Week With Pete
Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs. |
5.10d
★★ Espresso
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The next three routes start from a ledge -- go right up the stairs, then left along the ledge to fin
The next three routes start from a ledge -- go right up the stairs, then left along the ledge to find them. |
5.11c
★ 100% Columbian
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.10b
★ Juan Valdez
Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake. |
5.6
★ Cafe' au Lait
Up the blocky corner to an obvious chimney, then stem up the chimney to the anchors. Yes, the fun of a bolted chimney! |
5.11a
★ Mr. Coffee
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.7
★ Percolator
Right-most climb at the Parking Lot Wall -- from the right-most trail from the parking, if you turn right instead of going to the main section, you'll go up steps that lead directly to the base of this route. Often wet. In Ward Smith's (2009) book as 5.5, but the 5.7 grade listed here seems more reasonable. |
The Drainage
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Parking Lot Wall The Drainage |
V1
The Road Not Taken
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Parking Lot Wall |
The Arrow Head Boulder
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Parking Lot Wall The Arrow Head Boulder |
V0
Sailors Beware
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Meadows
Another cliff near the parking lot -- really this and the "The Parking Lot Wall" are part of the same band of cliff without a clear divide between the two. Sub-sections are listed left-to-right, but if approached from the parking lot, the approach will arrive at the Holderness corner section. (The trail from the overflow parking near the swimming hole arrives near the left-end of the No Money Down section.) |
The Meadows |
Apocalypse Walls
Left and up from the main "Meadows" walls. |
The Meadows Apocalypse Walls |
5.6 R
They Come and They Go
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.11a
★★ Supreme Onion Sacrifice
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
WI3 - 4
Apocalypse Left
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.7
Serenity Now
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.11c
★★ Apocalypse Later
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.12d
Bad Seed
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.13a
Whitey's Start
Direct start to Bad Seed |
5.12c
★★ Good Earth
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
WI3-
Parallel Gully
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.4
Kate's Arete
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.11c
★★ Captain Fingers
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
WI4+
Private Eye
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.11b
★★ Corporal Punishment
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Meadows |
No Money Down Area
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Meadows No Money Down Area |
5.10a/b
★ Repossession
The far left end of the wall. Scramble up an easy ramp to the first bolt. Move up through to the crux and top out. |
5.12a/b
★ The Payment Plan
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.10c
★★ No Money Down
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.11a/b
★ Student Loan
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.11b
★★ The Coveted
After a few bolts up "Thou Shalt Not Covet", breaks left to the "Student Loan" anchors. Often top-roped, or can be lead with gear. |
5.9
★ Thou Shalt Not Covet
Partial retrobolt of 'The Coveted'. Break right at the top. |
5.10a
★ Mr. Popular
Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier. |
5.7
★ False Modesty
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.8
★ Dung Beetle
Look for a fairly obvious low ledge. Climb onto this, then up the bolt line above. Tackling bulge below anchors on the left would be closer to 5.9+. |
5.8
★ Easy Terms
Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right. Go up the slab. |
5.7
★ Truth In Advertising
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.7
★ Rose Garden
This line goes up and rightwards up a less than vertical face parallelling the edge of the wall as it drops off into a bit of a gully. Be careful top-roping this route -- a fall can easily swing off the route into the gully, and even following has some risk. |
5.8
★ New Route
Dunno which route in the 2009 guide book is "New Route" -- the ascents with dates were in 2004, so likely this has got a name, now. |
The Meadows |
The Beginner's Wall
This is the center of the Meadows area. |
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall |
5.4/5
★ Mom's Pancake
Start in the low-angle corner and climb the easy face just to the corner's left, finishing with a stem across below the anchors. (A bit run-out at the top for a 5.4 leader.) |
5.8/9
★★ Hippos on Parade
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.9 R
★★ Attack of Life
This route no longer really exists -- it was originally a mixed bolt & trad route that has been re-bolted and straightened out by Jim Shimberg, and is now the route "Hippos on Parade". Ward Smith's guide book (2009), which looks to be the book to use at Rumney (as of spring 2012), has no mention of a route with this name anywhere at Rumney, and nothing at this or close grade in the Meadows with a name at all similar. |
5.9
★★ Lies And Propaganda
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.13a
★ The Move
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.10c
★★ Cold Turkey
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.8
★★ Bolt Line
Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.) |
5.5
★ Beginner's Route
Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start. |
5.10c
★ Bonehead Roof
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.10b PG13
★ Med Dose Madness
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.9
★ Tunnel Zone
A wandering route that is not climbed anymore. |
5.10b
★★★ Misdemeanor
Now a sport route |
5.10a
★ Rhino Bucket
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Meadows |
Holderness Buttress
The right side of the Meadows area, it runs directly in to "The Parking Lot Wall" with no clear or obvious break between them. |
The Meadows Holderness Buttress |
5.11c
★★ White Rhino
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.12d
★★★ Hope For Movement
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.12a/b
★★★ Flesh For Lulu
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.8
★★ Holderness School Corner
The obvious dihedral with crack in the back. Want gear up to a #4 friend. Lower-offs. |
5.10b
★★ Holderness Arête
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.10a
★★ Holderness Finish
Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear. |
5.10d
★★ Idiots Deluxe
Beginning is rather easy and uneventful, but last 25' is fun, pumpy, sustained, & slightly overhanging with lots of jugs...watch out for the wasp nest near start of overhanging area to the left on a great hold. |
5.8
★★ Curly for President
9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets. |
The Meadows |
Escape From Reality Roof
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
The Meadows Escape From Reality Roof |
V5
Dookie in the Ball Pit
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V3
Going Deeper
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V8
Choss is Reality
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V9/10
Fighting the Flaws of Reality
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V9
Laws of Gravity
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V10
Fighting the Laws of Gravity
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V8/9
Escape From Reality Direct
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V10/11
Escape From Reality
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V6
Caught in a Landslide
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
V2/3
Easy Come, Easy Go
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
G Spot
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
G Spot |
5.9
Drip of Fools
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.6
G-Wiz
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |
5.7
Sex Ed
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues. |