Nodi in Rumney

Excellent sport climbing on good schist and quartzite.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

The closest wall to the parking lot, making it a favourite -- it has a variety of easier routes.

Often wet.

Has a large down/right facing corner -- climb up easyish ground, then move left around the corner and up.

Often wet.

Climb a series of nice flakes up the usually wet rock.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Climb the line of glue-in bolts to the left of the big flake/chimney that "Glory Jean's" ascends. Anchors are hidden from the ground, but up and left of the (visible) anchors for "Glory Jean's".

Route is often wet, but good climbing if dry.

Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors.

Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees.

The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon".

Extension of "Easily Amused".

Can be done as a 2nd pitch, but also easily done in a single push clipping one of the bolts of the Easily Amused anchors along the way.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Climb the (usually wet) left ascending crack/gully.

Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area.

Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section.

Climb up the almost always wet, but low-angle rock left of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" ascends to a high first bolt, then up the great climbing up the steep face above.

Another long route for the Parking Lot wall.

Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet.

Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

The next three routes start from a ledge -- go right up the stairs, then left along the ledge to find them.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake.

Up the blocky corner to an obvious chimney, then stem up the chimney to the anchors. Yes, the fun of a bolted chimney!

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Right-most climb at the Parking Lot Wall -- from the right-most trail from the parking, if you turn right instead of going to the main section, you'll go up steps that lead directly to the base of this route.

Often wet.

In Ward Smith's (2009) book as 5.5, but the 5.7 grade listed here seems more reasonable.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Another cliff near the parking lot -- really this and the "The Parking Lot Wall" are part of the same band of cliff without a clear divide between the two.

Sub-sections are listed left-to-right, but if approached from the parking lot, the approach will arrive at the Holderness corner section. (The trail from the overflow parking near the swimming hole arrives near the left-end of the No Money Down section.)

Left and up from the main "Meadows" walls.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Direct start to Bad Seed

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

The far left end of the wall.

Scramble up an easy ramp to the first bolt. Move up through to the crux and top out.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

After a few bolts up "Thou Shalt Not Covet", breaks left to the "Student Loan" anchors. Often top-roped, or can be lead with gear.

Partial retrobolt of 'The Coveted'. Break right at the top.

Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Look for a fairly obvious low ledge. Climb onto this, then up the bolt line above.

Tackling bulge below anchors on the left would be closer to 5.9+.

Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right.

Go up the slab.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

This line goes up and rightwards up a less than vertical face parallelling the edge of the wall as it drops off into a bit of a gully.

Be careful top-roping this route -- a fall can easily swing off the route into the gully, and even following has some risk.

Dunno which route in the 2009 guide book is "New Route" -- the ascents with dates were in 2004, so likely this has got a name, now.

This is the center of the Meadows area.

Start in the low-angle corner and climb the easy face just to the corner's left, finishing with a stem across below the anchors. (A bit run-out at the top for a 5.4 leader.)

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

This route no longer really exists -- it was originally a mixed bolt & trad route that has been re-bolted and straightened out by Jim Shimberg, and is now the route "Hippos on Parade".

Ward Smith's guide book (2009), which looks to be the book to use at Rumney (as of spring 2012), has no mention of a route with this name anywhere at Rumney, and nothing at this or close grade in the Meadows with a name at all similar.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.)

Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

A wandering route that is not climbed anymore.

Now a sport route

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

The right side of the Meadows area, it runs directly in to "The Parking Lot Wall" with no clear or obvious break between them.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

The obvious dihedral with crack in the back. Want gear up to a #4 friend. Lower-offs.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear.

Beginning is rather easy and uneventful, but last 25' is fun, pumpy, sustained, & slightly overhanging with lots of jugs...watch out for the wasp nest near start of overhanging area to the left on a great hold.

9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.