Nodi in Rumney

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Start up the easy slab to the first bolt, then pull over the steep bulge to flatter section, move right, then up the steep dark face to the finish.

The next 5 routes start in the gully.

Left-most bolt line up the left side of the gully. Start a bit right of the first bolt -- the direct start is much harder.

Fun climbing up the right-hand pair of easy routes up the left-side of the gully.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Climb the arete up the back of the gully. Run-out for the easy climbing at the start, but gets steep for the finish. (5.8+)

Climb the thin face on the right wall of the gully, to anchors shared with "The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge".

Follow the ridge line along the right side of the gully. Shares anchors with "Preppy's Crack".

Climb the broken crack up and right behind the "Wimpy-Gilman Ridge". Finish on the anchors for "Rainbow".

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

The shorted, less-intimidating section left of the main (central) wall.

The following three routes start off a ledge a couple meters above the base of the cliff.

Start on the ledge, go up over steep juggy rock then angle leftwards up more slabby rock.

Belayer should consider slinging the tree to anchor in.

Right hand bolt line leading up off the ledge. First bolt is a bit high (though over easy ground), so belayer may with to anchor to the tree to the right. Technical on the early part of the face, then more powerful near the end.

Follow the right-angling corner/ramp from the right end of the ledge.

New (since 2009) short route that starts down and right of the ledge.

2nd pitch, goes up the steep headwall above "Half Nelson".

Bouldery start to easier finish.

Start between some trees growing close to the wall, just before the base turns a corner.

The start is bouldery, leading into easier climbing up the arete. Rock is much smoother without the usual sharp Rumney edges.

The following two routes start above Anchovie Caper.

Starts from the end of "Anchovie Caper", going up and right from the belay.

Also starts above the end of "Anchovie Caper", go right from the belay, the up onto a ledge, then up an arete. Joins "Mister Meaner" at the top.

On the right of Anchovy Caper, climb in the dihedral now protected by a lower bolt. Start on a crimp with good footholds and toss to a jug on the right to get up the dihedral. Then easier climbing up to the anchor.

Climb the smooth (and, for Rumney, very low friction) slab with a thin crack in it.

Corner

Left up a crack, then right; shares anchor with "Scene of the Crime"

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Starts over a low overhang.

1. 5.7, 10 bolts.Low overhang, slab, then a bit steeper.

2. 5.4, 5 bolts. Continue up easy slab.

Many people just climb the better first pitch.

Extension of The Big Easy or Bourbon Street

Extension of The Big Easy

Extension of The Big Easy

Alternate second pitch of The Big Easy

Climb the over-hanging corner up and right, then up good climbing above.

Alternate second pitch to The Big Easy

Climb straight up through the left side of the large roof.

Climb straight up through the right side of the large roof.

Slab at the right end of this section.

This is a lower section, below the 3rd-class ledge that many of the routes on this wall start on -- all these routes are short.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Climb a left-angling crack to the easy slab above.

Mantle then face to a short crack.

A short face climb just left of the boulder leaning against the wall.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

This is the upper portion (starting from the ledge) of the huge central portion of the Main Cliff.

Starts on a ledge. Two ways to get there:

• scramble left along the ledge from Underdog et al. Has an awkward VB downclimb.

• climb 'The Maltese Falcon' and top out

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Extension of Rocket Boy

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Pitch above Thin Man

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Extension of Underdog

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Extension of Know Ethics

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Extension of Goldbug

Extension of Goldbug

Pitch above Du Jours

Top destroyed by rockfall

Starts up an easy scramble to a dihedral in the quartzite; exiting right near the top of the dihedral to the last bolt before the anchor is the crux.

P1 Heads up and right from the far right end of the starting area. It starts over easy ground then eventually gets steeper.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Another large, complex, area on the right end of the Main Cliff.

Short line starting right from the trail - slab then steeper.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Starts above the trail, behind some trees.

The initial climbing is dirty, and generally requires pulling on a couple trees (first one alive, 2nd one dead) to go near the grade. Mid-section is interesting, and it finishes with easy slab. Over-all, better than it looks from the start -- but it will never be a classic.

Several Routes start from the ledge at the end of "Charity Case", including: Cherry Pie (5.8), Stairway to Heaven (5.10b), Free Bird (5.11b), and High Roller (5.11c).

Linkup of either Wendall's Route or Charity Case, and Rock Du Jours

Second pitch up from Charity Case

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

P1 is trad. P2 is mixed trad(?). P3 is sport. Dead Toad is a sport variation to P2 that goes left.

This is a link-up of Charity Case and White Toad. After Charity Case, traverse up and right past the anchors for other climbs until you get to the anchors for White Toad, and then do P3.