Aide

description

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

  • 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
  • 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)
  • 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05
  • 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
  • 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
  • 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
  • 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
  • 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
  • 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
  • 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
  • 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
  • 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55
  • 2007-10-4 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30
  • 2007-10-8 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
  • 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33
  • 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05
  • 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45
  • 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46
  • 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44
  • 2018-06-06 : Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell : 1:58:07

Historique de la voie

1958Première ascension: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore
1993First free ascent: Lynn Hill

Alertes

Localisation

Lat/Lon: 37.73292, -119.64025

Citation de la cotation

5.9 C2 VI Cotation(s) agréée(s) par la communauté
Hard Landin' Brandon
Jakob Kapelj
VI 5.11 A2 Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls
5.11c, A1 private
VI 5.13b Rock Climbing Yosemite Free Climbs
VI 5.13b or 5.11 A2 Rock Climbing Yosemite's Select
5.13c Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America
5.13c or 5.9 C2 Yosemite Big Walls
5.13c or 5.9 C2 The Road to the Nose
VI 5.13c or 5.8 A2- SuperTopo.com
5.9 C1 private

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saison

Qualité

Super classique
Classique
Excellent
Bon
Dans la moyenne
Pas la peine
Pourrie

Overall quality 94 from 48 ratings.

Difficulté - 5.9

Plutôt facile
Facile
Dans la moyenne
Difficile
Piège

Sur base d'évaluations 2.

Cotation recommandée

5.9
5.10d

Sur base d'évaluations 2.

Difficulté - C2

Plutôt facile
Facile
Dans la moyenne
Difficile
Piège

Sur base d'évaluations 1.

Cotation recommandée

C2

Sur base d'évaluations 1.

Types de croix

Croix 58
À vue 1
Après travail 5
Essai 9
Objectif 8
Flash 1

Mot-clé des commentaires

super sweet fun great stoked classic cool amazing awesome magic roof traverse jamming hands rest flake smooth epic crap slippery crack bad crazy sunny contrived hard exhausting scary tricky

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781735608006

Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.

  • Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
  • Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
  • Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos

Auteur·e·s: Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Auteur·e·s: Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

Partager ceci

Photos Rechercher parmi toutes les photos

Téléversez une photo de voie

Mer 3 Mai
Regardez ce qu'il se passe à The Nose.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文