Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
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V13 | |||||||||
V13 | Healing Hands | Oatlands | Mer 29 Jan 2014 | ||||||
Around V11 to even just get your feet into the roof, very very hard and attempted to get both feet into the roof a good 100 times, managed it somewhat once or twice but immediately exploded off the holds. Very very hard to establish. Landing flooded in around 2016 and usually has a good 20cm of water underneath.
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V13 | ★★★ Ammagamma | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | ||||||
Yep it's hard lol
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V13 | ★★★ Mana | Iskra Crag | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 28 Juin 2022 | |||||
8B | |||||||||
8B | ★★★ Ray of Light | Rocklands | Lun 5 Juin 2023 | ||||||
so close
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8B | La tour de pise | 6m | La Montagne | Dim 23 Juil 2023 | |||||
V13 | |||||||||
V13 | ★★ Motorhead - avec Talia Hawkes, Cameron | 5m | Forestville | Mer 24 Avr 2024 | |||||
actually my dream climb, punchy moves on small crimps! 1 out of the 2 moves done and I can’t wait to come back 🙏
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5.14d | |||||||||
5.14d | ★★★ Pure Imagination | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Sam 30 Sept 2023 | |||||
V12/13 | |||||||||
V13 V12/13 | ★★★ Deep Blue Sea | Black Cave | ★★★ Classique | Dim 29 Jan 2017 | |||||
One of the V13 that feels doable for me, Bryan's beta is a little bit easier and fits me better, but still require lots of figure power and core body strengoth, hopefully I can link the moves together next time I come
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V12 V12/13 | ★★★ The Mono Proj - avec Nick Foulds | Terrors Creek | ★★★ Classique | Sam 29 Mai 2021 | |||||
Tried this but will need to do a ton of mono training before this won't break me.
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V12 V12/13 | ★★★ Deep Blue Sea | Black Cave | Sam 6 Août 2022 | ||||||
Rad! All moves done except crux, need to come back with more focus next time.
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V12 | |||||||||
V12 | ★★ Platform 9 3/4's Project | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 22 Août 2013 | |||||
Such an incredible line, it's definitely set to go in the double figures. Got some sick vid of this project.
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V12 | ★★★ The mighty Sarlak (Sarlak Project) | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | Mar 30 Juin 2015 | |||||
Worked from the start of the compression onwards. 1 metre of progress but heaps of fun. Can't wait for this to go.
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V12 | ★★★ Roobiks Cube - avec matt hoschke, ernest | Victoria Range | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 23 Mai 2016 | |||||
Wow, got my hands on a V12! Worked the starting moves!
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V12 | ★★★ The mighty Sarlak - avec Philip Xunlix Ly | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★★ Classique | Mer 26 Avr 2017 | ||||
Some fun being humbled. Awsome problem though and hopefully something possible way down the line
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V12 | ★★★ Sleepy Hollow - avec matt hoschke | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Jeu 8 Mars 2018 | ||||||
First time trying the moves. Couldn't do the first crux on the first crimpy rail, and the second crux matching the gaston (where people do knee bars)
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V12 |
★★★ Sleepy Hollow
- avec
matt hoschke, Justin Foo, Nick Moore
1
| Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 31 Mars 2018 | |||||
Wow! Got the first crimpy rail crux now....pretty far from linking anything or getting any of the crux crux (matching slopey rail from RH pockets) but its lovely to see progress !
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8A+ | |||||||||
8A+ | Double Infraction | Murgtal | Dim 3 Juin 2018 | ||||||
V12 | |||||||||
V12 | ★★★ Sleepy Hollow - avec Heidixe, Anton Klimenko | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★ Excellent | Sam 1 Sept 2018 | |||||
Wow, some realy cool moves at the start and the feet first moves into the meat of the problem are so cool! Definitely on my long-term project list!
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V12 | ★★★ Sleepy Hollow - avec Justin Foo, Anton Klimenko | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Sam 1 Sept 2018 | ||||||
V12 | ★★★ CaveBitch | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★★ Classique | Dim 4 Nov. 2018 | |||||
My god! The middle section of this thing is so good! Hello, long term proj!
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V12 | ★★★ The mighty Sarlak | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | Sam 9 Mars 2019 | |||||
Had a play around on this and getting beta
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V12 | ★★★ Deedrah | Peña de Bernal | ★★ Excellent | Dim 20 Oct. 2019 | |||||
mi proyecto a medio-largo plazo, bloque duro, agarres pequeños y dolorosos pero muy buen proyecto
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | Dim 4 Oct. 2020 | |||||
Got past the pocket 'match' and stuck the next hold. Tried at nighttime so couldn't see where to go next. Will go down soon with some more training
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V12 | ★★★ Bumpy Boys | 4m | Nowra | Mer 6 Jan 2021 | |||||
V12 | ★★★ If You Want Blood, You've Got It | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Ven 28 Mai 2021 | ||||||
The fuck is this and why does it go
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V12 | ★★★ Bumpy Boys | 4m | Nowra | Jeu 3 Juin 2021 | |||||
V12 | ★★ Time's Up - avec Luke Seymour | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★★ Classique | Dim 29 Août 2021 | ||||
First section completely dialed in, struggling with long left hand move with a high left foot, I can pull hard enough to reach the hold but need more contact strength to actually hold it.
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V12 | Blackboard - avec Keita Richardson | 4m | The Fear Factory | Sam 11 Sept 2021 | |||||
V12 | ★★ Time's Up | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | Mer 6 Oct. 2021 | |||||
Keep getting to the same spot not able to get any tension on the left foot for the big left hand bump
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V12 | ★★ Kiss My Witness (Open Project) | Terrors Creek | Sam 13 Nov. 2021 | ||||||
Start of a long term proj
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V12 | ★★ Kiss My Witness (Open Project) - avec Jake O'Sullivan | Terrors Creek | ★★★ Classique | Lun 22 Nov. 2021 | |||||
Long Long long term project maybe the moves basically all seem almost impossible only just being able to hold the positions for about a second let alone move from them. Maybe one day when i have time to come week after week to really project it or when i am much stronger on small edges.
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V12 | Presence of Mind | Oatlands | Mer 29 Jan 2014 | ||||||
Managed the link into Darkside once but still didn't manage to do the crux of Darkside. Very cool and tensiony moves leading into the even better Darkside. Flooded in 2016 with usually around 10 to 20cm of water underneath.
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V10 V12 | ★★★ Deedrah - avec Joss, Bowline Dandy, Julio Cesar, Rodrigo Monsreal, Mau García, AleLee | Peña de Bernal | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 31 Déc 2021 | |||||
V12 | ★★ Last Action Hiro | Iskra Crag | ★★ Excellent | Lun 25 Avr 2022 | |||||
wall gets sun pretty early in the day...definitely a night session boulder
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V12 | ★★ Lost For Life | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Excellent | Mar 28 Juin 2022 | |||||
Close. Will go next session.
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★★ Classique | Mer 10 Août 2022 | ||||
Hitting left hand bump consistently. Worked upper moves - very scary
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | Dim 21 Août 2022 | |||||
I hit the hold and latched it but the foot slipped... More campus training required
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | Sam 27 Août 2022 | |||||
you only get a couple good attempts - next time!
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V12 | ★★ Kiss My Witness | Terrors Creek | Jeu 1 Sept 2022 | ||||||
Ooh baby it's hangboardin time
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V12 | ★★★ Persistence | Wedderburn Cave | Mar 21 Fév 2023 | ||||||
Lots of falling
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V12 | Bearback | Cobaw Forest | Ven 10 Mars 2023 | ||||||
Went and had a play on this boulder the other day but struggled to figure out which line was which. If anyone has any info let me know!
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V12 | ★★ Giada | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Mer 12 Avr 2023 | ||||||
V12 | Bearback | Cobaw Forest | Mar 25 Avr 2023 | ||||||
Made loads of progress on this today but broke off a huge crucial foothold at the end of the session. I think its still possible but the 2nd/3rd moves are likely harder now
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up - avec Brosnan Degenaar, Samuel Melville | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★★ Classique | Mer 26 Avr 2023 | ||||
7th session. Still falling on the same move but atleast I have 50% tension this time instead of just flopping off
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V12 | ★★ Magician's Code | Flat Rock | Sam 20 Mai 2023 | ||||||
This is wildly cool, happy to feel strong on the moves, crux catch remains untouched unsurprisingly
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V12 | ★★★ Ukiyo | 4m | Barron Gorge | ★★★ Classique | Sam 24 Juin 2023 | ||||
Rad!! Got links start to hitting slot and from the slot to the top but figured better to come back when i feel more ready for the slot move, probably just needs another session or two! Midday trying as it was when water was lowest bloooody hot
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V12 | ★★ Contact — 3 essais | Villas | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 30 Juin 2023 | |||||
So good and so hard.
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V12 | ★★★ The mighty Sarlak — 10 essais | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★ Excellent | Lun 17 Juil 2023 | ||||
Worked this climb for a bit got most of the moves. Totally my style and am very keen to get back for the send
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up — 6 essais - avec Kai Becks, Samuel Melville, Leight Scott | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★ Excellent | Lun 21 Août 2023 | ||||
Isolated the move from the matches crimp out and to the crux bump, went from the start and link to the the bump up, had fingers over the lip of hold just went too far. Would like to try the top with a rope cause that scary as.
Could have a chance of sending this! |
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up — 6 essais - avec Lee Prescott, Dylan Glavas | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 24 Août 2023 | ||||
Another few throws, getting comfortably to the crux bump now, just need to dial the feet and work on locking. Did the top out from the crux Spock to top on a rope, and the end kinda a mini crux. Progress tho, should train my locks on small edges more!
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★★ Classique | Dim 27 Août 2023 | ||||
Another session falling off the same move for the last 3 years. It'll stick eventually
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V12 | ★★ Time's Up | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★★ Classique | Sam 16 Sept 2023 | ||||
15+ sessions later over 3 years. Finally stuck the crux. Just need to link from the start now. Psyched
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V12 | ★★★ The mighty Sarlak | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | Sam 16 Sept 2023 | |||||
V12 | ★★ Time's Up - avec Luke Seymour, Jimmy Blackhall | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ★★★ Classique | Sam 23 Sept 2023 | ||||
Lackluster session... didnt feel very fresh. Semi-consistently doing the bump move atleast
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8A+ | |||||||||
8A+ | Das Individuum | Sherwood Forest | Sam 14 Oct. 2023 | ||||||
8A+ | Das Individuum | Sherwood Forest | Mer 18 Oct. 2023 | ||||||
8A+ | ★★ MTV Generation - avec zoe | Topside | Lun 1 Jan 2024 | ||||||
V12 | |||||||||
V12 | ★★★ The mighty Sarlak | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | Dim 3 Mars 2024 | |||||
V12 | ★★★ The mighty Sarlak | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | Dim 3 Mars 2024 | |||||
8A+ | |||||||||
8A+ | ★★★ Miami Vice Grip @ 40 | 4m | Kilter Board | ★★★ Classique | Ven 8 Mars 2024 | ||||
Monstrous! Gonna work this one over a few sessions for sure.
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V12 | |||||||||
V12 | ★★★ Slim Pickings | Gibraltar and Corin Road | Jeu 7 Mars 2024 | ||||||
Did all the moves except the 2nd reliably. mega mega
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V12 | ★★★ J2 | Jessicca's | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 4 Avr 2024 | |||||
Session 1: Really have to turn it on for all the moves in this one. The start move was way bigger than it looks on video, but we got it knocked off relatively quick(5 attempts). After that worked the 3rd to 5th move as the landing off the second move was just too rough and I was getting a headache from the impact of slamming the mats every time.
The dyno is probably going to be the hardest move for me, building up the mental game to make that throw off the heel will take some time to commit to, did a few practice jumps off the pads and a few off the heel. But it will definitely be the hardest. Overall - everything you could want from the first session, moves getting dialled in, micro beta adjustments for the feet - this could well go, eventually. |
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V12 | ★★★ My Happy Place - avec Gabriel Pham, kate mendel, Sam, Joe Schwarz, Raul | Oatlands | Sam 20 Avr 2024 | ||||||
Holy moly I’m stoked about Oatlands again
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V12 | ★★★ J2 - avec Onetoehookatatime | Jessicca's | ★★★ Classique | Ven 26 Avr 2024 | |||||
Session 2: First move is absolutely dialled. Worked a lot on making that second move with extra pads to prevent my head rattling around in my noggin' too much. Finding the micro beta to make it consistent was challenging, finding the heel placement, the right toe and latching the hold with hips tucked in the dead space really had me worked. I don't think I can cut on the second move at all due to my height so I'll have to really hit it with precision and tension on the send burns. Slowly but surely the climb is coming together.
Next session will probably be dyno focused as it's still very much in my mind and I feel mentally stuck on it even when I visualise the moves. Hopefully with enough throws it will feel second nature.
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8c+/9a | |||||||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★★ El Gran Bellanco | 25m, 9 | Montanejos | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 19 Avr 2022 | ||||
8c+/9a | Memenet | Es Capdellà | Sam 18 Fév 2023 | ||||||
8c+ | |||||||||
9a 8c+ | El celíaco y la atacá (El celiaco y la ataca) | 20m | Patones | Mar 17 Mai 2016 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ Deus Irae - avec Lukas Sonderegger | 15m | Claro | Ven 31 Déc 2021 | |||||
8c+ | ★★★ Deus Irae - avec Lukas Sonderegger | 15m | Claro | Ven 31 Déc 2021 | |||||
8A/A+ | |||||||||
8A/A+ | ★★ Circus Maximum | Westpfalz | ★★ Excellent | Dim 7 Avr 2024 | |||||
Variante mit Henkel 7a
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8A/A+ ~8A+ | ★★★ Sofasurfer - avec Luke Seymour | Magic Wood | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 17 Avr 2024 | |||||
Cool to pull some moves on this rig! Shame we don't have enough time to put anymore sessions into it
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8c to 8c+ | |||||||||
8c to 8c+ | ★★★ Resistance | 30m | Wilder Kaiser | Sam 28 Oct. 2023 | |||||
V11 | |||||||||
V11 | ★★ Darkside | Oatlands | Mer 29 Jan 2014 | ||||||
worked it for around 4 hours straight,....got into the crux several times after a bit of sussing out the moves, but man, this thing is hard! Heaps of fun though,...will be back on it SOON!!
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V11 | ★★ Darkside | Oatlands | Ven 18 Avr 2014 | ||||||
worked it again today with Marine,...only for about 20 minutes, couldn't stick the pinch out left anymore,...better friction next time
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V11 | ★★ Darkside | Oatlands | Dim 14 Sept 2014 | ||||||
got to a new high point on first attempt,...then spent another 20 or so attempts on trying to avoid the gnarly swing. Feeling closer to getting this done sometime soon
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V11 | ★★ Darkside | Oatlands | ★★ Excellent | Dim 5 Oct. 2014 | |||||
got to a new 'horizontal highpoint' today. Psyched!
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V11 | La Belette | Buttermilks | Jeu 2 Juil 2015 | ||||||
V11 | ★★ Abacus(stand) - avec Matt Minus | Killarney Heights | ★★ Excellent | Mar 28 Juin 2016 | |||||
seems vaguely possible. pulled on and held the pinch for a split second
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V11 | ★★ Point and Shoot | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★ Excellent | Ven 28 Avr 2017 | |||||
V11 | ★★ So You Think You Can Dance | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Ven 28 Avr 2017 | ||||||
V11 | ★★★ Mushi Brain | Killarney Heights | Sam 13 Mai 2017 | ||||||
first go on this one. start feels ok to the throw. very sequency. more beta needed
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V11 | ★★★ The Bakelite Concept - avec Will Mendoza | Halls Gap Area | ★★★ Classique | Mer 9 Août 2017 | |||||
V9 V11 | ★★★ Romper Stomper - avec Adriana, Hannah Skjellerup | The Den | Dim 24 Juin 2018 | ||||||
First move is nails rest seems plausible
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | ★★★ Classique | Sam 21 Juil 2018 | |||||
Cant a quick look at the moves after watching Florian, only tried from the rest in the middle down into the moves of if a shoe slips. Wouldn't mind starting a lifetime project.
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V11 | ★★★ The V11 | 4m | Mt May | Dim 14 Oct. 2018 | |||||
Quick go at it at the end of the sesh to get psyched to come back - I'm psyched! Pinch strength and core training needed. Epic.
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V11 | ★★ Dos Manos - avec Anton Klimenko | Victoria Range | ★★ Excellent | Dim 20 Jan 2019 | |||||
Working out the crux. Feels doable. Will definitely come back to work on this some more.
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8A | |||||||||
8A | ★★★ La Griffe | Morschach | ★★ Excellent | Dim 7 Avr 2019 | |||||
V11 | |||||||||
V11 | ★★★ Groove Terminator - avec Hannah Skjellerup, Adriana, Matt Minus | The Wing Cave | Dim 9 Juin 2019 | ||||||
Pulled on a couple of times definitely want to work this one when I am fresh
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Mar 6 Août 2019 | ||||||
Sussing out the line. Pretty mega. Surprised myself by doing all the moves, but linking 24 moves together from V5 - V8 will be pretty hard. Also - Plum into If the Shoe Slips would be pretty cool. I reckon it'd be harder than Pickup Line as Plum is V9, and the start of Gone For Borneo to the sloper-jug is only V6.
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Mer 14 Août 2019 | ||||||
Progress. Got from start to the drop-down move, but couldn't make the match at the start of If The Shoe Slips. Doing If The Shoe Slips after all that will be tough!
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Ven 23 Août 2019 | ||||||
Ooooph feeling GOOD! Did in 2 links: From the start to the rest & drop-down move, then from the rest through the drop-down and to the copout. Getting psyched! Will take more power endurance training to maintain some power for the end.
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Mar 3 Sept 2019 | ||||||
Progress! Reach my highpoint getting past the match and to the undercling twice. Really gassing out of power there. Not pumped, just sapped of strength. Really need to refine beta for the first half cos it's chunky as atm haha - worked on refining the beta from the match through Shoe Slips and sent it ~4 times as some muscle memory. Now using beta that is slightly less effective, but more efficient as a whole. Progress feels good! It feels like as soon as I hit that LH jug (2 hand-moves and 3 foot movements away), I'll be in the sending zone!
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Ven 6 Sept 2019 | ||||||
Plenty of excuses today ... getting hot, need to get there earlier, no spotter to point out the hidden foot ... but still need more power endurance!
Thinking positively, I made a bit of progress. Refined my beta through the start sloper slapping instead of fumbling through it each time. End crux beta is dialled now - sent the problem from the mid-way rest again fairly easily, and almost did it while pumped later on when it was hotter. |
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Ven 13 Sept 2019 | ||||||
Cloooooose! Got through to throwing for the first RH sloper then my heel popped - so 2 moves away to the second LH jug where I can't see myself falling off! Was pooped and didn't place the heel correctly. Really good conditions, warmed up at home, warmed up on the board at the boulders and just gave it a crack straight up. Other key beta was Kwan-do being there to guide me to a hidden footer in the sloper-slappin' start section. Other goes in the session weren't as good, getting to the Shoe Slips match and no further. Might be a one-shot a session thing, or I may need longer rests than ~6min between burns as it's pretty much a short route at ~23 moves.
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V11 | ★★★ L'homme Obu - avec Adriana, Georgia Barton, Gino Lagazio | The Balkans | Sam 23 Nov. 2019 | ||||||
Still working the if the shoe fits part.
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V11 | ★★★ The Bakelite Concept - avec Anton Klimenko | Halls Gap Area | ★★ Excellent | Sam 18 Jan 2020 | |||||
Half of the moves done. Need to figure out how to move left to the high crimp before the dyno. Wishing for cooler temps!
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V11 | ★★★ Redline | 5m | Mount Keira | ★★★ Classique | Mer 15 Avr 2020 | ||||
After a bunch of sessions I lucked out and by some miracle linked from the start to basically the second last holds before the mantle.
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Mar 21 Avr 2020 | ||||||
Back to see how it feels. Did all the moves again, apart from the heel-hook move on If The Shoe Slips as my knee is being a dick! Sad boi Alex.
Worked a harder toe-hook drop-down variant to If the Shoe Slips which works with my knee. This may be the way around for me, for the moment. |
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Sam 25 Avr 2020 | ||||||
Bit of a breakthrough in beta for the non-heel hook version of Shoe Slips. Less moves and higher % throw for the second jug now. Feels ~V8 still. So psyched for some send burns with the crux finale right at the end!
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V11 | ★★★ Pickup line | Toohey Forest | Mar 5 Mai 2020 | ||||||
10 days on now. Officially my longest project. First time sending If The Shoe Slips with my new toe beta. Feels ~V8 properly this way. Almost sent from the drop-down slapping the jug, V9 from here.
Helpful micro-adjustments: Drop-down from L sloper. When moving R toe-hook, let it slip from one to the other quickly. Straighten left leg and drop heel, straighten R undercling arm and lean left going to 2nd jug. |