Ascensões em Bluff Major North Face

Campus campus campus

Unreal!!! Never in a million years did I envision getting on this. Fortunately Brad brought the psyche and I now have another unforgettable memory to add to the collection out here. Came within millimeters of onsighting P1 then stoked with the flash of the 26 finish of P2

Very different style to P1

Attempted pitch 1 only. Lovely 3 dimensional climbing out to the traverse, then some weird stuff to get around the arete (hint, gym climbing won't help you) where we got shut down. Think I've got it figured though and can't wait to go back. 2nd pitch looks mega, will definitely try to do both pitches (in succession) if I ever get through the first bit.

Gravelly in places which was a challenge for 3rd day skin, but climbs really well in a stonker of a location. Super-soft touch though - the "26" section has two moves that are hard-ish but come after a good rest anyway.

Very nearly 2nd shot on TR despite much faff'ing about - will come back and redpoint (or even place on lead - don't think that would be any harder tbh) at some point soon I hope.

Still think this thing is hard

P1, stellar!

Got to the last move on the onsight bumping to the jug at the crux and fumbled my feet and fell 😅 happy with that.

So sick! I found the crux really quite hard

A long overlooked route which offers great climbing. The gear is good despite the reputation and write up in the guide(s).

Some very long moves on the first pitch, facing some exiting swings. Can see it would be good climbing if I was a bit taller. Second pitch like an obscure Frog route - techy thin crack with a bit of mossy and dodgy rock but good climbing.

With Ed, Rather run out

hard with little gear

Even with fiddly small wires and a bolt it was run out

a bit shy on gear before that high bolt- feels like a solo 2 bolt

With Ed. Just as good as Missing Link!

as good as Missing Link

Enjoyed it even more than missing link

One preservative of which I approve.

I only got as far as two moves into this one before talking myself out of it. I then did Missing Link, & check it out on abseil. Nasty runout to bolt from gear at crux of ML. I did get a green Zero in about 3-4m below the bolt. There's 2 gear placements right L of & above the bolt, & again below the big ledge where it rejoins ML.

run out lead, much easyer to t/r

a little hard and run out but pleasant

grounder potential for a long way

Necky lead on nice rock but bland moves

Had a blast after Missing Link. Fell off really quick but came back to the ground and then got it clean.