Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Local de escalada | Qualidade | Climber | Data | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
30 | |||||||||
30 | ★★ The Clumbsy Caterpillar - with David Barrie, Elliot | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||
Top rope aid. Did most of the easy moves, left the hard stuff for someone else.
|
|||||||||
30 | ★★ The Clumbsy Caterpillar - with Michael Moore | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Jul 2023 | ||||
Just the one TRS lap. Very technical slabbing. More arete-y than I expected. Rock is a mixed bag of quality.
Did all the moves (with lots of falls) to the last bolt, and I think I could link this much on lead within a sesh or two... But I never made any upwards progress in the 1.5m from the last bolt to the anchor, and didn't really have an idea for how to do it at the grade. |
|||||||||
V8 | |||||||||
V8 | ★★ Lava Lamp - with Michael Cassidy | 6m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Jan 2021 | ||||
Getting there. Rad movements and holds. Shame it's a bit sandy.
|
|||||||||
27 | |||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Oct 2019 | ||||
it would be a classic if it weren't for the pre first draw section, gentle overhang with really good movement and body tension moves
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Michael Cassidy | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Jan 2021 | ||||
Needs a bit of a scrub. Tecky crimp fest. Keen to work out the first few metres. Most of the rest goes.
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Payton de Ruyter | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
Sick sick climb. Worked out all the moves bar those below the first draw. Gently overhanging with some very tensiony moves on crimps and very high feet. Keen to come back
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Payton de Ruyter | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Nov 2022 | ||||
Stoked with this! Incredibly sustained for such a short route.
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Pierre, manon nougier, Naomi, JeremyPerier, Coedie, Laura Wimberger, Ryan, Lee | 12m | Blue Mountains | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | |||||
need more time on the moonboard (and a little more skin couldn't hurt) managed all but the first sequence keen to put some more time into this one!
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Justin | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 19th Jun 2023 | ||||
This thing is fuaken spectacular. One hang doneso, maybe can do it?
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Justin | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 21st Jun 2023 | ||||
Fell on the last hard move sheeeeeeet.
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Justin, Jared Anderson | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Jul 2023 | ||||
Agonisingly close. Jared came in hot with a good beta suggestion from behind the camera which made a huge difference, tried it on the 4th burn and nearly got it but just a smidge too fried. Next time
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Blueoffset4lyf | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Jul 2023 | ||||
Managed to squeeze another sesh in but day 3 and fatigued. Still managed very close attempt so given how zooted I was that’s promising
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Blueoffset4lyf, Paul Frothy Thomson | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 6th Jul 2023 | ||||
Falling on the last hard move again, rock was insanely close today though was fully numbing out
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Blueoffset4lyf, Ben, Justin | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 10th Jul 2023 | ||||
Fuaken punted at the anchors
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Michael Moore | 12m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 9th Jul 2023 | ||||
Just the one exploratory lap.
Some cool moves, but probably the most contrived bolted route I've ever been on, and hardly aesthetically inspiring. The rock is also rather soft (and probably not destined for long term survival). Only the start move gave me any real grief (that is; once I'd figured out how I'd attack the upper crux). If I came back, and can sort the start, I think I could do this next visit |
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Blueoffset4lyf | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 12th Jul 2023 | ||||
fuak me fell at the anchors again. Found a lil rest after the cruxy bit after though, so fingers crossed for next time.
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Blueoffset4lyf | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 18th Jul 2023 | ||||
Fucken get in
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with Michael Moore | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 18th Jul 2023 | ||||
Beta intense face climb
Aesthetic line It's not hard to ignore the obvious crack feature o the left Moves go easy but the send isn't a gimme |
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Aug 2023 | ||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee — 2 attempts - with Luke Hef | 12m | Blue Mountains | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with mike, Alex | 12m | Blue Mountains | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||||
About as good as a 10m face can get. Really rad moves
|
|||||||||
27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee | 12m | Blue Mountains | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | |||||
Classic technical number, 2nd shot
|
|||||||||
26 | |||||||||
26 | Methane Maestro | 32m | Blue Mountains | Crap | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | ||||
Not worth it, bolts have not been placed deep enough and some are rusty. Only made it to just matt to before backing off. Rock is also super soft and constantly kept snapping holds off. Surprised it was bolted at all. Bring belayer up to belay ledge after second bolt if you're going to do it at all
|
|||||||||
26 | FA ★★ Mastercraft | 35m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2020 | ||||
26 | ★★ Mastercraft - with Heath Black, Ben Jenga | 35m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | ||||
Pretty happy with the onsight effort. Onsighted to the 2nd last bolt, then broke a footer off while doing the move correctly. Then had no real issues to the top despite having all the wrong gear to make it exciting (though I did practice the move at the top bolt after I clipped it). Kinda dirty, but the climbing is a burly old-school shoulder-workout, with a strenuous move to turn the arete and get established above the roof. The crack itself is 21/22 and non-trivial to say the least.
|
|||||||||
26 | ★★ Mastercraft - with Josh Mackenzie | 35m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Feb 2020 | ||||
Fun stuff! Some messiness between the anchors and the roof but overall really interesting, burly movement. The upper crack is pretty enjoyable too. Good work Josh Mackenzie and thanks for cleaning it up and making it climbable!
|
|||||||||
26 | ★★ Mastercraft - with Frank the Tank | 35m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Wed 3rd May 2023 | |||||
Climbed to the third bolt (with chain) above the anchor of the climb below as I thought it as an anchor and figured I'd get a few more metres of climbing in. Had a rest or two getting there, but made most of the moves. Would be good to come back with some gear to do the whole thing.
|
|||||||||
25 | |||||||||
25 | Buster Gonad | 32m | Blue Mountains | 2002 | |||||
25 | ★★ Lord Llewd | 35m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | Llewds Prayer | 35m | Blue Mountains | 2002 | |||||
25 | Llewds Prayer | 35m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | Buster Gonad | 32m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 11th Sep 2004 | ||||
2 rests.Did Technical crux clean,and got to ledge for a rest. Then fell at horror show sand traverse. Classic lines aren't sand pits with loose rock breaking off. Tricky/pumpy stepping right out of sand central corner to face again. Good rests up higher, before tricky hold finding finish.
|
|||||||||
25 | Buster Gonad | 32m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jan 2007 | ||||
25 | ★★ Lord Llewd - with Salvo Moscato | 35m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 12th Nov 2016 | ||||
feels like 26!
|
|||||||||
25 | ★★ Why the Long Face? | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2017 | ||||
Brilliant, engaging and sustained climbing pretty much the entire way up this gorgeous red wall.
Committing 25 climbing up thin slab. If this is your thing, highly recommended. If not, a little less recommended.
|
|||||||||
25 | ★★ Lord Llewd | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2017 | ||||
Awesome, old school hard sport slabs. More strenuous cruxes than on 'why the long face?' but less sustained... Still very sustained!
|
|||||||||
25 | ★★ Why the Long Face? | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Jul 2018 | ||||
Loved it, you need a focused sharp mind!
|
|||||||||
25 | ★★ Why the Long Face? - with Meef, Salvo Moscato | 35m | Blue Mountains | Sun 8th Jul 2018 | |||||
Shell I blame myself or my big hole in shoes... perhaps both
|
|||||||||
25 | ★★ Why the Long Face? | 35m | Blue Mountains | Mon 27th May 2019 | |||||
Got rained off
|
|||||||||
25 | Llewds Prayer | 35m | Blue Mountains | Thu 7th Nov 2019 | |||||
The start is desparate. Glued hold broken? After that okay but dirty and no chalk to show the way. Thought the top was run out at my height
|
|||||||||
25 | Oddly Bodly - with Bobbie | 22m | Blue Mountains | Don't Bother | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | ||||
Nice for the first 6m, then silt which would clean up, then choss which won't, then friable holds held together with glue.
|
|||||||||
25 | Buster Gonad - with Pierre, manon nougier, Naomi, JeremyPerier, Coedie, Laura Wimberger, Ryan, Lee | 32m | Blue Mountains | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | |||||
I've seen less sand at the beach.
Engaging start with poor hard to spot feet (which becomes the enduring theme for the first half), through to first crumbling ledge to good rest at half way point where the feet almost entirely disappear and the rock disintegrates. I wasn't able to convince myself to hold the crumbling holds above the bolt so cheated through to the incredible headwall which was awesome and well worth doing. I managed all but two moves. If the rock was better this would be a classic, closer to the guide grade in my opinion but maybe i was just bricking it with the sand. We removed several souvenir holds (some dangerously close to landing on the belayer) and there are likely more for tourists to these parts to take and treasure....make sure you and everyone at the base wears a helmet. |
|||||||||
25 | ★★ Why the Long Face? | 35m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | ||||
Could not quite reach through the crux. Managed to work out the other moves on the blank wall. Some fun moves and lockoffs with very small feet. The Muras did not let me down. Could not be fucked with the chossy bubble rock so bailed half way up. Needs a clean.
|
|||||||||
25 | ★★ Why the Long Face? - with Ellen | 35m | Blue Mountains | Tue 21st May 2024 | |||||
Hard and committing old style slab climbing. Pretty sustained and with multiple cruxes. It felt harder than 25.
|
|||||||||
24 - 28 | |||||||||
24 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion (Rudely Llewdly) | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Apr 2002 | ||||
28 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Duncan Steel †, Rob Saunders | 30m | Blue Mountains | Mon 30th May 2016 | |||||
On the first burn I needed gardening gloves, Roundup, and maybe a whipper snipper. I fell out of the first V-groove spitting fern leaves. I think Emil injured himself laughing.
|
|||||||||
28 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Duncan Steel †, Rob Saunders | 30m | Blue Mountains | Mon 30th May 2016 | |||||
Came off after the last bolt.
|
|||||||||
28 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Duncan Steel †, Rob Saunders | 30m | Blue Mountains | Mon 30th May 2016 | |||||
I'd been thinking about this route since its intriguing description in the old Pircher guidebook. The enormous bottomless chimney ended up climbing quite differently than you might imagine, requiring a fusion of old-school and new-school techniques. We cleaned it a LOT so it's ready for a flurry of ascents, lol. [3]
|
|||||||||
28 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | ||||
One move left to figure out. This thing is wild!
|
|||||||||
28 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion - with Evan Owen | 30m | Blue Mountains | Wed 2nd Jan 2019 | |||||
Fucked
|
|||||||||
28 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Jun 2020 | ||||
28 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion - with Zac Lazatin | 30m | Blue Mountains | Fri 13th Aug 2021 | |||||
Some climbs are hard because we lack strength.
Some climbs are hard because we lack balls. But it's a rare climb that's hard because we lack imagination (in addition to both aforementioned variables, of course). Onsight to the 4th bolt, then it got real. One to come back to when I possess sage wisdom, entrepreneurial vision and childhood wonder. |
|||||||||
24 24 - 28 | ★★ Funnel to Oblivion - with Anton Korsun | 30m | Blue Mountains | Fri 13th Aug 2021 | |||||
off the 3rd bolt whimpering like a dog
|
|||||||||
23 | |||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Apr 2004 | ||||
This is two 23's stacked on top of each other. I took a fall on both! Dangerous in parts.
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Sat 11th Sep 2004 | |||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | 2002 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Dec 2007 | ||||
Some extremely small holds happening up there - brings on a full on pump
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Sep 2004 | ||||
Too smashed from the earlier climbs. Just moved the wrong way and missed the hold. Still a nice line.
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Thu 24th Nov 2005 | ||||
Freaking awkward beginning to cool bulge climbing then a big rest. From the ledge enter a long crimpy crux sequenc through like 3 clips to a moderate rest to a second cruxy bit before a bit of dodgy rock and then the anchors. Could have put it all togeater if i had more skin...
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | 2002 | |||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Wed 1st Nov 2006 | ||||
With SC Matt and ?Nick. Cruxy.
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Wed 21st Apr 2004 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Jan 2013 | ||||
Spent some time getting pumped at the crux. ALso tricky off the ledge.
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
I couldn't do the start. I think something has come off and destroyed the tree that used to be there. No way is it 23 to the first bolt now, felt like a v4 boulder problem. But, maybe I'm just a whimp and it was a little bit humid.
The rest of the climb however is an awesome steep adventure, everyone should sign up! |
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
I think that a block has fallen off the start. A bit sandy in places, but very atmospheric!
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | Mon 17th Feb 2014 | |||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | Fri 30th Dec 2016 | |||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Dec 2016 | ||||
All that work to fall off on the same pocket as 5 years ago. Must've been stronger than 'cause i could pull on it, and braver too. New beta to prevent failure in 5 years time. Match on the big part of the hold. HEEL all the way up there - yes up there, now left to pocket and bump again. It's all in that heel. Proper 23, ie. new school 25. Tree has gone so batman. Super long draws for the two bolts over the ledge - don't fall off.
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Not in Front of the Children - with Adrian Laing | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jun 2018 | ||||
long and cruxy! Batman'd the first bolt as the tree has gone. Some rings have corrosion starting to rust.
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
quite sustained and sequency through the middle.
|
|||||||||
23 | Nudely Rudely - with Shaun Shuncan Duncan | 20m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 13th Jul 2019 | ||||
The traverse along shale ledge ruins it!! Yuck
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Twista - with Heath Black, Ben Jenga | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | ||||
As with others, aided the first move to the jug, then onsight from there up. Once past the sandy start to the ledge, this is all class for the upper 15m. A line of incipient flake features up the faces on either side of the arete. Surprised this doesn't get another star, but perhaps the V5 start (without the aid move) is to blame.
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Fri 23rd Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | Wed 5th Aug 2020 | |||||
Hard finish but fun
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th May 2021 | ||||
Felt more than a grade harder than 3 Buttocks. Really nice sequence small holds, but got pumped stupid.
|
|||||||||
22 | |||||||||
22 | ★★ Llewd Dude | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 17th Jan 2004 | ||||
not a chance for me here! could not even get the moves off the big jug thru crimps to next jug!
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Hairy Vengeance | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 17th Mar 2006 | ||||
21 22 | ★★ I've Got 3 Buttocks | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 11th Sep 2004 | ||||
22 | ★★ Hairy Vengeance | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Jan 2004 | ||||
fell off last move to anchors. thought I had it! Another one to come back to! Would like to climb it without the bolts too! Great line.
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Hairy Vengeance | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
22 | ★★ Praise the Llewd | 25m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 22 | ★★ I've Got 3 Buttocks | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Dec 2007 | ||||
Crazy crux move, long and fun
|
|||||||||
21 22 | ★★ I've Got 3 Buttocks | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Llewd Dude | 25m | Blue Mountains | Wed 1st Feb 2006 | |||||
21 22 | ★★ I've Got 3 Buttocks | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Llewd Dude | 25m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Praise the Llewd | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Mar 2006 | ||||
21 22 | ★★ I've Got 3 Buttocks | 30m | Blue Mountains | Sun 13th May 2001 | |||||
with Dave Filan
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Llewd Dude | 25m | Blue Mountains | Wed 11th May 2005 | |||||
21 22 | ★★ I've Got 3 Buttocks | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Nov 2003 | ||||
what a nasty third clip. nice long face climb. very worth the effort.
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Hairy Vengeance | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Hairy Vengeance | 30m | Blue Mountains | Average | Tue 6th Jan 2004 | ||||
all over the place
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Llewd Dude | 25m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 |