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Mostrando os 6 vias.

Grade Via Estilo de equipamento Popularidade
Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
27 Chalk Chops

Whilst Bundy and Macca pissed around on their sport/trad project over several years Steve noticed the chalk Macca had left from trying the direct start and managed to bolt send this harder version in one weekend. It's the route between Binary Neil and Thumbs Out.

Looks as though it has a couple of impassable blank sections, but some focussed oomph will see you through, provided you have average or better wingspan. Very good climbing which deserves more attention.

Chris Beers

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014

Sport 25m
27 Armistice Direct

Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump.

Set: Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Lee Cujes, 28 Mar 2016

Sport 15m, 6
Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
28 Marxism
1 23/24 25m
2 24 25m
3 28 12m

Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread).

Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.

  1. 30m (24) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. The best way to do it is to start up Vespasian's Wall for 3 bolts, then traverse right into rising line of bolts. (The original grade 23 start used to have a large dead tree to stand on to reach the first holds. Now its a stick clip and awkward batman, so just do the new start which is longer and more sustained).

  2. 25m (24) The right line of bolts directly above the three bolt belay. Long sustained orange wall - a couple of crazy fragile features spices things up. Finish at last good jugs at lower-off.

  3. 12m (28) Link this from pitch 2. Either belay from P1 mini ledge - or the ground. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake!

Set: Mark Baker (pitch 2 & 3)

FA: Phil Sage (pitch 2 & 3 in one big pitch), 2002

FA: Neil Monteith (P1 via tree start), 2010

FA: Neil Monteith (via Vespasian Wall start), 2023

Sport 62m, 3, 22
28 Fashionista

Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.

FA: Steve Grkovic

Sport 30m, 18
28 The Old Sleepy Horse

The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.

Set: Neil Monteith, 2009

FA: Steve Grokovic, 2014

Sport 26m
28 Zoncolan

Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve.

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014

Sport 25m

Mostrando os 6 vias.

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