Vias em Lower Blue Mountains para uma graduação selecionada

The right of The 'Escape Route' , on the left side of the big cave

Sit start, up left then sidepull and pop to the top

Sit start as for Anzac then after the first move bust out right then head up through the harder top

Sit start right of Anzac up to scoop via right sidepull undecling can be topped out in various spots as per the previous routes but the obvious is straight out

Third start position but head up right with a throw to jug

follow RBs. Tops Out. Tree for anchor. needs a clean after heavy rain.

To the right of Rapa Nui go up the flake, pretty average climbing.

left hand side of the arete below GG, punting not advised

Cool little arete sit start and up

Chris Beers

An old route heading up juggy edges

From the back wall up the right side

stand start in the jug crack and make a few moves to the fat pinch then over the bulge to top

to get here go behind dopest down the left side and down the hill around to the right past slice

start on vertical section of slab-wall use cave for feet as you get up

straight up the left side , into the crevice to top-out

start to left of leg lock rock on crimps finish top-out

Start on rock wedged between the 2 caves. tricky slope at the top

start left bathang finish bottom hold

start on low sloper to right and continue under roof to left. top out

start twohands on sloper ledge, sideways-foot kneebar into dyno move and mantle to topout -->FFA:

3D and technical through blocky steepness. Hard cruxes between good rests.

Belayer should pay attention during the moves between the first and second bolt, as they're hard, and a bad catch could be catastrophic.

Starts at the right layback flake -immediately left of Sahelanthropus. A briefly tricky move at the low roof leads to a stance, followed by a technical and strenuous finale up the overhanging blocky corner.

The grade is very much open for discussion. The moves suit me, and I did it quickly, but it is a very particular style of climbing.

Super easy flake to giant move (or dyno) then very technical pumpy crimping to the anchors. (Hint,theres a giant jug above the anchors).

Awkward sit start on horizonal crack and straight up the most obvious holds to a mantle which forces you to spread your wings

Sharing a few sections of climbing with The Venom, this line launches up the steeper, blanker faces, while remaining stylistically similar to its elder sibling.

Bring a double rack #0.3 to #3, a single #0.2 and #4, and an extra #0.3. Bring 2 x 60m ropes if rapping off from the top.

This route seeps heavily after rain, and will remain wet even when the rest of the gorge is bone dry.

Start (as for The Venom) at prominent thin crack at right side of black wall, approximately 8m above the Gorge floor (can be accessed by an easy stemming corner).

1. 15m 15 - Up black seam as for The Venom for 5m to major ledge system. Rising traverse left until directly below major orange flake, then onwards and upwards to bolt belay. Bring the full rack for this pitch.

2. 25m 21 - Up thin flake (#0.3 on left) and up prow past bolt to thin rail where you'll find a crucial #0.3/#0.4 placement in a slot out left. Fingery traverse right, and up to sloper and bolt. Continue up vague corner system to steep finger crack (2 x #0.3). Up this to bolt, then turn roof on edges (slightly right of bolt) and up face (unprotected) to bolt belay (shared with the end of The Venom P1).

3. 20m 17 - Shared with The Venom P2. Straight up nose above belay (#4, #0.4, #0.3) to bolt. Traverse straight left past another bolt, then up onto ledge system. Rising traverse left past #0.4 and #0.75 to bolt belay.

4. 30m 22 - Up seam past #0.4, #0.5 and #0.75 to bolt and rooflet. Gain the ledge, ignore carrots heading out left, and instead head right to bolt. Step out over the void, then crux moves straight up face to gain break (#0.3, #0.2), then upwards to gain ledge (#0.3, #0.4). Traverse right to bolt belay.

5. 15m 20 - Tricky moves (and gear - sneaky #0.4 slot out left) above the belay to gain stance under the roof. Blast out the roof crack slightly right of the belay via #2 and #3, and up crack (#0.5) to top out. Belay off #2 and #1 cams.

To escape, find the bolts above The Venom (up and right from where this route tops out -on the other side of the waterfall) and abseil 50m to the belay at the end of P2, and another 50m to the starting ledge.

2m right of AOAD. Intimidating. Up to ledge. Continue up wall just right of flake (AoaD) to roof. Across roof (PR) and up wall. Tree belay.

Cut away roof just left of pitch 2 of AC. Airy and gymnastic. Swing out past BR and PR on thin holds onto arete. Up (poor BR) to BB.

Good line with good climbing on wall right of Purple Maze crack. Up to overhang, right to PR, up to hard-to-clip BR on bulge, then right to ledge. Continue straight up wall past tricky mantleshelf move and 2 BRs. Tree belay.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Obvious thin crack through bulge/roof just right of TD. Strenuous and frightening. Just follow the crack.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Start as for SDS, or abseil in from tree. Hard moves near bolt, poor protection down low. Left to bullnose arete, belay. Up arete, BR.

Steep and sustained, dirty. Start: as for three cans later. 1: corner, roof, wall to BB

Start on the overhanging orange wall on the right as you enter the Gorge cliffs. A good route that remained the hardest climb for many years. Up thin crack (2 BRs plus cams).

Starts on the orange rail, head up the right on some lovely holds.

The short powerful route on RHS of the amazing cave. Up through the smiley face feature. Best to stick clip the 2nd bolt and climb the side of the feature.

Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun.

Phillip Booth

Same start as The nurse but then pushes left into the undercling match, a couple ok holds then the high finish as for Go Go Gadget.

Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until you figure out the beta.

Not any harder just higher and more committing. Finish on the sweet jug in the water runnel.

Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13

Start in the good flake jug and traverse right until you can step off. Can be wet for very long periods of time.

Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. USE OF EITHER ARETE IS "OUT"..

Thin and balancy with all the hardest moves in the top half.

Traverse of the inner cave, start on the two pinches, long move to next two pinches and traverse across, finishing at the same jug of the Cave Traverse 1. Bottom flatter horizontal strip of rock out for feet.

Long traverse, start low on pinches below graffiti, traverse across holds until 2 big moves to finish on the large rail.

Left-hand variant in the cave finishing on slopers - will update with a topo shortly

The Slightly harder variant of Tiger Balm starts off two right-hand holds low down

Furthest right looking at the wall. Well bolted rings. Wierd end if you go straight up, death by tree. Nice extension that goes the length of the cave along a high break.

Choice of two finishes

The middle line on the Cave's far left hand side.

Sit-start with right handjam in roof and left hand on positive lip. Some minor contortion to get up onto the starting footer of the stand variant, then possible crux of turning back to face the wall, before continuing as for SSS. Careful of some sharp pebbles in the lower section of the crack.

Start on the undercling up to crimps

Start on low jug tough mantle through the bulge

Sit start through pockets to jug slopey topout

Start on the left side of the incut hole then go up and across to the two jugs at the end of the boulder

Start on opposing pockets and up to the sidepull. Top out

Start on jugs to slopey crimp thingies and topout

Starting on the left side of the cave on the low jug on the shelf. Climb up the side of the cave and then onto slopers.

Start in the middle of the cave then go right and up using slopers and jugs

Boulder is located on the right side of waratah cave. Start on 45 rail and up into amazing undercling then to a hole through the rock. mantle up and over the top. Awesome features not so awesome rock quality

Problem starts in the cave on the far right side, traverses the sloper rail high, and then has a variety of endings...the many heads of the Hydra. The sloper rail goes at V3, the endings vary from V3 to V4.

Obvious line on left side of boulder. Sit start on good holds on overhang, move to crimps on face using kneebar, then crank to the top!

Harder then it looks Sit start on flake make your way up 1m the crack gos left on a 45 and hard till the top. cool moves side pull right then side pull left and fun topout.

Awesome line to the right of Ride the Rail. Climbs the uphill side of the RtR boulder just after the backside walk off. Side pulling pain, mixed with awkward foot placements, and a committing final move onto a sloper topout make this a monster classic distilling the best the Zed has to offer. I banged my knee on the first knee and sprung a gusher...which gave rise to the name!

Sit start right of the SS arete keeping body on the right face only. Follow crimps to an unexpectedly positive hidden hold for RH at the top. Sketchy top out

Climbs left arete to sloper, slopping traverse right to decent dish, then commit and over. Cleaned by Z and Ado, 'scent by Axel!

Original name on crag, wrist slapper' was in error, AT calls it Sexual Thrutch at V3

Traverse left from LL 4 meters to start of MM. Nice safe low ball line, a nice addition to the sector. Starts on sloper crimps and ends on forearm friction!

Start as for Excalibur, head left and up past TT onto high holds to start of Tizona. Keep high and end as for KnT. Awesome linkup!

Climb Blade Bandit, then down climb to Tizona, then up and over!

Left arete of the Heuco Cave. Original line ends in small cave due to rain, topout extension un'scent.

Sit start and thrutch up the off width to finish on the balcony.

Left hand arete. Sit start on low rail. Finish in sandy cave.

Traverse right to left. Finish up Johnson and Johnson on the balcony

Crimpy wall into the obvious dish and mantle onto the top. Standing start. Really nice.

A steep uber exposed line up the steepest section of the wall

With not a single bad pitch and bolted belays. It highlights that we are only scratching the surface of climbing development in this area and there is plenty of lines for the Rookies of the Future.

P1 - 17 15m

P2 - 22 20m

P3 - 20 20m (my favourite pitch)

P4 - 22 33m

P5 - 18 30m