Vias em New South Wales and ACT para uma graduação selecionada

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

1. 40m (22) Start up Easement but move R before chains following FH's up and then L to steep wall. Crank L and up weakness in this steep headwall past numerous FH's to slab then to chain belay.

2. 20m (19) Up slab above past big flake and numerous FH's to tree belay.

Classic and quite sequency. The clean line located in the middle of the buttress, below the R slanting flake ending at a lower-off.

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

Weakness just L of Penial Warts. Four BR's and chain belay. Really just a variant start to Penile Warts as it joins it at the second BR.

Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay.

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay.

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

Not many routes of this grade are this steep. Starts up on a high, sandy platform. Juggy short wall to very unlikely roof flake ending at anchors in the middle of an otherwise blank wall. Belayer must wear a helmet as the flake likes giving free samples. Extension is Lee's gift to Adam Ondra and is open.

There has been concerns raised about the stability of the large flake by a number of climbers who have recently been on this route. It is very difficult to assess the stability of a feature like this, and the probability of serious rockfall. But the potential outcomes can be managed by being mindful of where the belayer and onlookers are located.

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

Starts on the ledge. Walk 10m R of previous route (around rocks) and scramble up a chute onto the ledge. Start up short black corner then climbs blocky orange and grey rock.

Scuttle up ramp or mantle ledge past bolt to start. Straight up on good rock and some tricky to read moves. Cuts left then back right to finish at same anchors.

For those who stop halfway. Cthulhu will eat your children.

Halfway anchors to aid in lowering off route with shorter ropes (60m rope is absolute minimum, 70m recommended). some valuable climbing in the lower half of the route but the top is where da party's at.

R-leaning crackline and arete. Some tricky moments passing the first bolt.

Climbs the white-rock section to very high anchors on smooth slab.

Stickclip bouldery start then balancy climbing which will pump your left arm. FH’s.

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

Read warning below. This route does have bolts with SS carrots but they are quite well spaced apart at about 5 metres so pucker factor is a major issue. Top pitches are very sparsely bolted with 20 metre run outs. As this climb is rarely done algal growth can obscure the bolts. full trad rack is also necessary. There is a 110 metre traverse on the lip of a huge roof. Ability to re ascend a rope is a must in this area for self rescue if fallen off route you'll be dangling 100 metres above the apron. Possibility of a bivy ledge one pitch above traverse ledge. Two people can squeeze on to this tight ledge. There is a descent option from the top of this climb however finding the start to the rap route is problematic. Good luck finding it. Best option is to find start at bottom. Start is around 2/3rds across left from descent gully.

Abseil descent has had it's anchors replaced as of early July 2020. All anchors are SS.

Warning.

Recent ascent by Duncan Steel. He describes the top several pitches as having deteriorated badly since he did it 15 years ago. We discussed why and we came to a consensus that the black lichen and the north facing cliff bakes in the summer sun and the skin of the rock exfoliates in the very high summer sun. This route really needs renovation and a retro bolt. Duncan warms that this climb is no trivial matter and death or very serious injury could result from anyone just turning up and having a go.

Start is high on the vegetated slabs on the far right hand end of the Shield. Finding the start is the crux I am sure but if one were to head over to the descent gully then work back say 50 metres and then head somewhat up then that is an approximation of where to go.The start is also about 80 metres up the vegetated apron. there is an obvious chimney on the wall proper.

1. 22 40m (direct) - Up chimney following crack system past a bolt and piton. Trad belay.

   Alternate: 15 45m (off to the right) - Up chimney then cut to the right to a small ledge, then veer back left to the crack system passing a spearlilly along the way. trad belay.

2. 15 40m - Continue following crack system to double rap station.

3. 18 55m - Continue following crack system past more spear lillies and a small overlap that is easier than it looks. Belay off spear lillies and a small tree.

4. 16 55m - Continue following crack system through exposed section with good gear. Continue past more spear lillies.

5. 5 30m - Scramble through increasing vegetation to top.

Sit start on the low crimp rail. Pounce to hole and slide sideways through big holds to top out up the arete

Sit Start low on crimp rail. Pounce to hole, then span up long to the right and top out.

Stand start on jug and go straight up. Bring several pads as the fall isnt fun

start just left of tree

awesome

tricky, balancy

Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete.

Can only be done when sand level is super low.

Right hand side pull to left hand pinch on small sharp arete, stay on arete to top.

Eliminate thin side pull, dyno from jug to break.

Gaston up middle of face to jugs.

Awkward start on jugs on right side, thin to pocket in middle of block at top.

Good arete with a reach.

Contrived low start, avoid leaning block with toe hook.

Start sitting over hole, don't fall down it!

Follow holds on left side of block using smaller blocks for feet at start.

From break slap right arete to pockets on face.

Low jug at back right to jug on lip with feet under roof, mantel.

Get down low and go.

From pockets straight up.

From pockets up and then join J13.

Side pull to pocket and crimps, often dirty at top!

Great rock with fun crux at lip of roof.

Steep, juggy and pumpy along the lip of cave to join 'M.M' and finish at lower off above headwall. DO NOT lower off single chain of 'M.M' unless you clip last perma draw from sit down pocket! Kinda chossy and sandy, but still worth a brush and send if you like steep climbs, hopefully it cleans up a little with some traffic.

Belay near small fig tree at right hand end of cave. Follow U bolts out past pocket breaks with bad feet to a few stiff moves then jugs to chain.

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

A tribute. Great moves all the way up the wall. Tops out to anchors just above lip for full value! REBOLTED FEB 14

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

Up slab 2m left of AG. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves.

A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top.

3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots

The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high.

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

Start as for OS for 2 bolts then head right up steepening wall. Longer draw on 4th bolt helps reduce drag, Finish as for white rabbit. An easier way to get on the finishing moves which are classic.

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

Sit start in the pocket.

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

On right side of wall and climbs steep overhung arete.

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

straight up face to finish through rooflet

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Climb the steep corner and feature.

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face. Awesome.

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.