Vias em Central Coast para uma graduação selecionada

4 metres left of the iron spike, sit start near corner. Hands and feet must remain on top of roof, exiting right near the metal post.

2m right of iron bollard is a large 2 handed pocket. Start with straight arm hang from here, feet up above the natural brown line - on steep ground only. Then it's one contrived move to glory.

5m left of sign post. Sit start with hands on nice big sloper. Straight up, taking care that little chicken heads don't break!

Sit start at the foot ledge then head up and left a bit past the round pocket to OK topout

Sit start at arete left of SC. Up into alcove then exit left.

The blunt arete down hill of easy arete. Start with right hand in 2 finger pocket and up to slippery top out

Start at obvious good crimp rail, straight up to a couple of crimps then tricky mantle on sloper.

Sit start on the good hold then straight up. Only feet on the ramp out left.

The cluster of smaller free-standing boulders in front of ABNPOC. Sit start at the crack. Up then reach left to the arete and up.

Sit start matched on sidepull inside the cavelet. Back wall of cave is out for feet after start. Move up and out to slopey pockets and across to right arete using fun heel hooks. Using right arete and thin incut slot, move directly up to undercling pocket then top out.. super fun line

Start with left hand on arete and right hand down low on undercling edge. Move up to right hand sidepull pocket on the face and use good holds left in the break to gain the lip. Tricky mantle

Start just under boulder on two jugs facing out. Topout sketchy - jump off instead.

Sit Start all the way down on the right side arete and traverse left to join Staring At The Sea Direct.

Mauricio Chino

Undercut scoop with long move to get onto slab. DBB shared with Sabbatical

The route LEFT of the cave with good steep moves down low and a tricky slab move up high. Bolt plates needed. Head up into lower cave and clip first bolt out left and left out cave and up to single U bolt anchor. 3 carrots on top of route if you need to clean it and can't get to anchor.

2m right of gully. Boulder problem start and straight up to bulge, slightly right then balancy move to topout. 3 U-Bolts.

1 Fixed hanger then 2 carrots. Start on L side of nose, then move R onto nose for easy arête climbing

Start R side of nose at fixed hanger. Up passed carrot and L to join Getting Over it at 3rd bolt (carrot), and up.

Starts right of undercut, straight up

Beautiful arête with very solid rock starting off boulder on top of mini shelf. Mixture of RBs and FHs. Resistance climbing.

Start at the left of the cave, tough first move then traverse out right past 3 more bolts to finish at top of cliff at 1 U bolt.

10mts R of Christian Soldier. Does not look much but worth the effort. Interesting moves above the top bulge. Lower off anchors

Start same as Daily Bread and straight up the L leaning crack. 2 U-bolts then cams to the top. Lower offs

Starts at overhand 3 R of Pearly Gates. Move L and follow U-bolts to interesting top move

Start matched as for rotary club,no feet on lower rock, come out through good edges then bust out right to sidepull, then up to sloper on the lip and climb up through sidepulls and edges in the break

Sit/crouch start with L/H on undercling and R/H on incut sloper. Hard first move into sloped edge on the right then make your way left to top out around the left side of the feature.

Sit start R/H on sidepull L/H on edge, bust up left to slopey edge on lip then make your way up the slopey bulge

Start matched on slopey rail at the far left of bloc,traverse the slopey edges into toadstool and finish as this problem

Sit start matched on edge, move up R/H to sharp sloper crimp then up to crimp slot, then use the R/H gaston edge before topping out. The flat rail in the break is not in, must top out to the right of break.

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right.

The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts.

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

3 pitch Odyssey. Pitch 1: 15m grade 10 easy climbing to good belay. pitch 2 15m grade 15 traverse (very 'airy') to chain. Pitch 3, LH 2 finger pocket and RH slot, up headwall LH smooth sloper, then to 2 finger pocket (crux) match to RH 2 finger pocket. Big LH move to Jug, then techo jug moves to desperate top out finished with customary unclip and launch into thin air!

Sit start matched on the prominent far left juggy edge, traverse right to the face before big move up to the arete then top out using small edges on lip. Block to the right is out.

Start matched on the far most left juggy rail in the middle of the big cave. Traverse right before meeting up with "the only way out" and finish as this problem

The big tall pinnacle straight ahead past the statues and down the hill a fraction. High boulder. Start to right of shallow crack (beginning head height). Right and Left hand-half pad width crimp. Move up and shift left, placing right foot in shallow crack before moving back right to crimp. Work way directly up through a range of crimps and pinches to the main ledge roughly 1m from the top. Main ledge is about 6-7m up and huge-its a platform. Mantel finish- somewhat sketchy considering height. The moves on the face are relatively easy, the crux is low. Grade (V2/V3) reflects mental component and mantel finish at height.

At the centre of the slab wall, standing start with both hands on the thin flake rail then moving up to good in cut edge then out right to slopey side pull pocket before moving upto lip and mantle

At the far right side of the rear face. start low matched on the first jug edge, traverse the crimpy edge all the way until it fades out, from here move out left to the good edge before gaining the lip to mantle

Just left at the top of the hill. 3 RB to Double RB lower-off. Caution: One of the lower off RB's is only half in the rock

Stay on the vertical face for the grade, easier if mantled onto the slab

Step down off platform, 8 m right of DCG, to the right of a white roof, and up wall minding the sundews.

Stand start to Falarica from the first good sloper move directly up and top out.

Starting matched of large side pull make a few moves directly upwards before mantelling and topping out

Same matched start as Ōdachi but moving directly up.

Sit start on obvious flat crimp on the left hand side of the cave moving directly up and mantling.

Start matched on jug moving up and slightly left to top out

Stand start matched on side pull moving up and left to top shared top out with 'Red Chili'

Shared start with Tàijí Quán and following the same line but the lip is in the whole way topping out at the top of the boulder.

Compression line stand starting at the lowest slopers on either side of the boulder moving directly up and topping out.

Stand start between the obvious crack and rail features moving directly up and topping out.

Stand start on sharp jug above overhang moving up and slightly left to top out on side pulls and juggy slopers

Traverse right at the second bolt and finish on Maiden Voyage anchors.

Start matched on the right facing crimp. Move up the left side of the scoop to top out. Arete is off up until it changes angle up high.

Run and jump to the top jugs, off of the small footer at knee height.

Lay down start under roof, pull up into roof with all limbs in crack and on rails, then head to right with no feet below roof,and finish up open chimney to top out using both walls, body jams, and whatever takes your fancy

The back pocketed wall. Sit start and up the left side of the bikini feature. Big reach around to halfway break, then finish on the wall out left

Sit start as low as possible on the right side of ships bow and follow the huge slopey jugs to top out right at the top.

Start as for Lara's Lips, traverse left low using the bowl and up from the horn.

Same as Lara's Bottom Lip but keep heading left to just before the tree, then up.

Sit start next to tree and go straight up

Crouch start on the sloper on the lip of slab. Move up to the flake and then top the same as Fat Jack.

On the south side of the boulder. Sit start on two pockets moving directly up via slopers and jug to top out.

Dyno from the start edge to the horn/highest point.

Sit start near descent boulder on the face towards slab at diagonal ironstone rail. Head left and up face

Climb the overhanging crack on the left edge of the first major cave using only the crack for hands. It meets Fangs at its 3rd bolt and it's easy to walk off into the cave. Lead it on gear, top rope or solo

The arête at right side of wall . Climbs the right face. Unfortunately first bolt makes you swing around arête if you come off, just start with second clipped. A long sling over the edge from anchors on platform will protect last moves.

Steep climbing, out the 45deg wall, short but pumpy.

Starting 2m from the left arete, out through the steep cave.

Start in back of cave, out lip and up on crimpers to lower off under rooflet.

Sit start far right with LH in obvious scoop and RH/feet wherever comfortable. Traverse left staying low until big move around the corner to juggy pocket. Mantle around the prow and then top out. Top of the Boulder is out until you mantle the prow.

On right hand side of the same bloc as The Aquarius.

Low start on small crimps. Climb up and left using good edges until you make the arete and then traverse up and right along it until you make the “V” shaped jug 2/3rds of the way up. Top out from there to finish.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYgUPWJA6b/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Sit start on sloping rail and head out left to the sloping arete, head straight up to top out.

Start left of the lip and traverse around to the middle to top out.

Fun technical slab traverse. Sit start matched on jug on the corner and make your way around using large flake. Some tricky feet to gain the undercling and then two crimps before the final jug and top out. Top edge is out until you reach the last hold.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYhgKoJlvo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Start as for Low double pockets make large move up to crimp rail and topout

Interesting Taipan-bridge start to gain break. Up onto slab which is continually engaging all the way to the clip+lower anchors.

Start as for YDBTR to break, then move R clipping a FH to big flake feature. Climb the slab above, always tending R past several UB's, finishing through bulge (sure, use the jugs on the right) to chain anchor.

Start as for 'Swampy Cow Corner'. At 2nd bolt trend right onto orange wall. Weave up this trying to locate anything that might be actually usable amongst the sea of slopers. Finish at double rings under roof.

Start: Sit start on small edges on the left hand cave wall.

Climb the right hand side of the cave tending right to the big hueco on the face. Use a low R/H side pull/ pinch thing, gain the big hueco then move up to finish matched on the ledge

Start: Sit start as for "we'll never make it out alive"

Make a move to the lip then a tricky mantle. Cute

Start: Start low from the obvious edge on the face.

Climb the right hand arete from the low sit start to a big move at the top.