Ajuda

Devondale

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Fotos: 1
  • Ascensões: 110
  • Aka: Sunbath Bouldering
15
BLDV

Sazonalidade

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Descrição

A large weatherproof overhang covered in chalky holds. A lot of traversing and a few hard, steep problems. Good for training but not that inspiring. The approach track and cave is located on private property as part of the 12 Belgravia Street estate. Access could be removed at any time - do not leave rubbish, mattresses or light fires. if approached by the owners please be respectful. Any problems contact ACANSW.

Questões de acesso herdado de Medlow Bath

Many of these crags are located on private property - and could be closed at any time. Do not piss off local residents by parking cars at the end of Belgravia St - park back near the train line and walk 100m up the road.

The Belgravia St descent track and Devondale bouldering is located on private property (it is NOT owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel). This property changed hands in 2018 for a cool $1.9 million, and the new landowners have not expressed concerns about the public on their land - yet. It is very important that this property is treated with utmost respect - and if you are approached by the owners then please be courteous. If they have concerns please get them to contact ACANSW.

Blue Mountains City Council is the land manager for The Block, Katoomba Bros, Sandpit, Valley Farm & Sooty Crag. Access to all these areas is via the private land mentioned above.

The mega lux Hydro Majestic Hotel owns private land that includes the Sunbath Wall, Reservoir Dogs, Sporting Complex, The Underworld & Pole 28. Access to to these private land crags is NOT guaranteed and could be closed at any time.

DJ crag is also located on private property - with the owner apparently living below the cliff itself.

Acesso

From the end of Belgravia Street, follow the private property track down the hill as for the Sunbath. Take the first right turn down an overgrown track. This soon crosses another track - continue heading straight down the hill, past some scrambly sections, to the base of the first cliffline. The bouldering area is straight ahead on the left, some unknown routes are to the right.

It is also possible to walk around from the Sunbath climbing area (much longer and overgrown). From the Sandpit, continue heading around the cliffs to the North, following a rough track. The track turns to the right and negotiates some big rocks before the bouldering area.

Ética herdado de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

Right to left staying below the choss ledge at the end. A good pumper - grade 25?

As per 'The traverse' continue climbing left last 3mtrs on crimps and bad feet

Climb as per 'The traverse' right to left ending at arete flat jug then reverse the whole thing without coming off

Start matched on rail under roof. Use the cool undercling pinch thing.

Start matched on a corner block just left of the blunt arete and move up through some compression crimps.

Start in scoop on the blunt arete. Use the undercling to do some tings.

Start on good holds, through undercling and big move to edges. Powerful.

Very low start on opposing good sidepulls with feet on back wall. Move up and right through the amazing pinch, then straight up and finish on ledge. Much easier for the tall.

Start on flat jug 3 meters right of HHH and climb straight up.

Link Half Hour Haircut into the reversed traverse. Pumpy start leads to easier finish. Giving this a boulder grade doesn't seem useful, but no harder than V4

There are two short, easy sport routes on a wall to the north of the main overhang (to the left facing the overhang). There is an easy Trad finger-crack route around corner past cave

Orange slabby face just right of corner. First ascent info unknown. Looks under grade 20.

5m left of Unknown A. Juggy face. First ascent info unknown. If it was at the Sunbath it would be permachalked.

Incorrect route in process of being deleted (I am the author). Trying to work out merging because delete option unavailable

Directly around corner from boulder cave (in direction of Sunbath), or reach top by walking over cave and facing across valley. Surely would have been climbed previously, considering location. Lower finger crack a one or two move wonder comparable to Hope (Piddington) but softer rock. Can build a decent anchor above the lower crack. Followed by unprotected slab and poorly protected face

Start matched on the low rail under the roof. Move out the roof to the hueco/scoop and straight up finishing up the arete. Majority of problems here have been done in the past (90’s), trying to stay discreet with naming etc. for those who know the history feel free to edit this post for posterity.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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Sun 21 May
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