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Classy excursion. A grovel, as advertised, but a highly novel belay and exit (assuming you go out the roof). To any attempting the roof hole exit, we (two slim lads) needed to doff helmets and unrack a lot of gear to squeeze out, be warned. For the right party this is a fun and hilarious outing!
Did it as one big pitch. The physical crux for me was getting past the second move in the wide bit. Once I got a heel-toe in I was ok. The mental crux was what I knew was coming at the top of that pillar. Another cluster of one average HB brassy and a v marginal one. Just had to switch my brain off a bit and go for it. And then the next piece of gear is that well fondled, but alarmingly thin sling on a horn ... I dropped the first sling in (Peter) panic trying to get that one under control. Then more nice slabs. But I forgot to step right to the flake feature and ended up in lichen town. But not too bad a finish either way. Was great to see a bolt belay. We managed to abseil off with a 60m rope stretcher that deposits you on a slab a little way up the Gulley.
More engaging that Roy's crack. But less straightforward.
felt great and not insanely hard on the wall. great thin facey movement and my pulley somehow held up. really felt like classic rock climbing, whatever that means. but then came the last move and all hopes were dashed.
Not the best of warm ups during winter. I lead the off width start which was humbling although the commitment comes from the upper slab. So hard to grade this style...