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Harlequin Buttress - Bouldering Guide

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Ascensões: 125

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Nick Clow Kim Walls Mani Baker Nick Hanson adam bogus Patrick Munnings Dylan Tubaro

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Harlequin Buttress - Bouldering 39 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Sazonalidade

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -42.104578, 148.340762

questões de acesso

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.

herdado de Coastal Cliffs

acesso

Continue past whitewater campsite towards the water, locate a set of stone steps just before a 'no vehicles past this point' sign and follow this down to the wall.

ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (freycinet@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Statewide ethics

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

herdado de Freycinet National Park

1.1. One 1 route in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Traverse V3 Boulder

1.2. Two 6 routes in Area

Summary:

descrição

Since the rockfall in late 2012, all problems in this area but 'Orange' are now unclimbable.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Orange V5 Boulder
2 2. Traverse V2 Boulder
3 3. Slab V4 Boulder
4 4. Mantel V5 Boulder
5 5. Arete V1 Boulder
6 6. Project V8 Boulder

1.3. Bolted Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -42.104549, 148.340694

descrição

The large bolted orange boulder that fell from the top of Harlequin Buttress in 2012

história

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Better Be Safe V4 Boulder
2 Triple Circumcision V0 Boulder
3 Jagged Arete V0 Boulder

1.4. Under the Cliff 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -42.104457, 148.340749

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Squeeze it and Please it

Down under the main Harlequin cliff just to the right of the U bolt for Granite Planet is a horizontal squeeze crack. Enter headfirst from the left side if facing the cliff. Rotate, then exit feet first onto small ledge. Spotter highly reccomended for the exit.

FA: Rye Stallard, 17 Jun 2018

Boulder 4m

1.5. Three 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Traverse V5 Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 2.Finger Power V4 Boulder 3m
3 3. Balance V3 Boulder 3m
4 4. Arete V1 Boulder 4m
5 5. Slab Boulder 4m

1.6. Four 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Roof Project V12 BoulderProjeto
2 2. Campus V7 Boulder
3 3. Campuseis V5 Boulder
4 4. Top Out V0 Boulder 2m
5 5. Topped Out V0 Boulder 2m

1.7. Five 3 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Traverse V1 Boulder
2 2. Slopeout V4 Boulder
3 3. Groovy V1 Boulder

1.8. Six / Jumping block 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -42.104578, 148.340788

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Traverty V3 Boulder 7m
2 2. Flaked

Start at the end of the flake, out to the lip and up.

V5 Boulder 2m
3 3. Campuseis

Hang-start on the lip and campus up.

V6 Boulder 3m
4 4. Flake Out

Sit-start deep under the roof on juggy undercling feature around 1m right of the undercling start of 'Flakey.' From the jug, head out to slopers of 'Campuseis' and finish as for 'Flakey.'

V9 Boulder
5 Flakey

Start on undercling under the roof as for Flaked and finish via Campuseis

V8 Boulder
6 Highball

Stand start on the good jug, up to the horizontal break and out to the arete, then to the top. Classic and committing.

V2 Boulder
7 tits deep

The offwidth crack under the block. Start in crack with feet against the small boulder, climb offwidth through roof, no using the boulder near start of "pull", mantle up to break on flake out face and finish around the left corner.

FA: Niels Tietze

V0 Boulder 8m
8 Tease it and Squeeze it

At the back of the off width boulder crack there is a small squeeze that exits up and right. Enter headfirst face down, twisting to face towards camp and get round those angles to exit. Can also be done in reverse but is much more challenging. Be careful!

Set: Levi Quilliam

FA: David Tan, 17 Nov 2018

? Boulder 1m
9 Squeeze it and Tease it

Tease it and squeeze it in reverse. Headfirst. eek.

FA: David Tan, 17 Nov 2018

Boulder
10 5. Pull V5 Boulder

1.9. Seven 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -42.104531, 148.340870

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1.Highball V3 Boulder
2 2. Highball 2 V2 Boulder
3 3. Crash Pad V2 Boulder 4m
4 4. Sitter V4 Boulder 4m
5 5. Lope V3 Boulder 2m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
V0 Jagged Arete Boulder 1.3. Bolted Boulder
Triple Circumcision Boulder 1.3. Bolted Boulder
4. Top Out Boulder 2m 1.6. Four
5. Topped Out Boulder 2m 1.6. Four
tits deep Boulder 8m 1.8. Six / Jumping block
V1 5. Arete Boulder 1.2. Two
4. Arete Boulder 4m 1.5. Three
1. Traverse Boulder 1.7. Five
3. Groovy Boulder 1.7. Five
V2 2. Traverse Boulder 1.2. Two
Highball Boulder 1.8. Six / Jumping block
2. Highball 2 Boulder 1.9. Seven
3. Crash Pad Boulder 4m 1.9. Seven
V3 1. Traverse Boulder 1.1. One
3. Balance Boulder 3m 1.5. Three
1. Traverty Boulder 7m 1.8. Six / Jumping block
1.Highball Boulder 1.9. Seven
5. Lope Boulder 2m 1.9. Seven
V4 3. Slab Boulder 1.2. Two
Better Be Safe Boulder 1.3. Bolted Boulder
2.Finger Power Boulder 3m 1.5. Three
2. Slopeout Boulder 1.7. Five
4. Sitter Boulder 4m 1.9. Seven
V5 1. Orange Boulder 1.2. Two
4. Mantel Boulder 1.2. Two
1. Traverse Boulder 5m 1.5. Three
3. Campuseis Boulder 1.6. Four
2. Flaked Boulder 2m 1.8. Six / Jumping block
5. Pull Boulder 1.8. Six / Jumping block
V6 3. Campuseis Boulder 3m 1.8. Six / Jumping block
V7 2. Campus Boulder 1.6. Four
V8 6. Project Boulder 1.2. Two
Flakey Boulder 1.8. Six / Jumping block
V9 4. Flake Out Boulder 1.8. Six / Jumping block
V12 1. Roof Project BoulderProjeto 1.6. Four
? Squeeze it and Please it Boulder 4m 1.4. Under the Cliff
5. Slab Boulder 4m 1.5. Three
Squeeze it and Tease it Boulder 1.8. Six / Jumping block
Tease it and Squeeze it Boulder 1m 1.8. Six / Jumping block
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