A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Little Bluestone Bay - Bouldering
27 in Area
- 1.1. Little Bluestone Bay Boulders 7 in Area
- 1.2. The Pharos 20 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Little Bluestone Bay - Bouldering 27 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -42.109188, 148.341961
descrição
Little Bluestone Bay has some good bouldering on nice white granite.
questões de acesso
A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.
acesso
To get there take a right hand turn down the 4WD track just before Whitewater Wall and follow the track south to the coast.
ética
Crag Stewards
Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (freycinet@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.
Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Statewide ethics
• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn
1.1. Little Bluestone Bay Boulders 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.109826, 148.341306
descrição
These are the boulders immediately to the left of where the track meets the bay.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Überclinger | V8 | 3m | |||||
| 2 | ★ Commander Pugwash | V4 | ||||||
| 3 | ★ Captain Pugwash | V5 | ||||||
| 4 |
★ V3/4
Start on slot and side pull under little rooflet in the tiny gully under the block (backside of Überclinger) move up via sidepull and pinch to top, don't dab! Hardish hanging sit start with weird awkward foot positions. FA: T. Krauss & 2012 | V4 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ V4/5
Start on slot under roof, move up via slopers and pinch/meathook to top out straight. FA: C. Johns & 2012 | V5 | ||||||
| 6 |
V1
Mantle. Stay away from crack on the left. Block opposing V4/5. | V1 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Womb broom
Big orange bloc can’t miss it. Low ball (don’t Need a pad ) Traversing right on only proper face holds into sequence c finish. FA: Dylan Tubaro FA: 20 Nov 2019 | V4 | 6m | |||||
1.2. The Pharos 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.108792, 148.342200
descrição
From Little Bluestone Bay follow the coast leftwards (east/north) for 200m until you see the prominent pinnacle of the Sentinel. The Pharos is a group of edges just to the south of the Sentinel.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Blank Topic
Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp. FA: Ryan Sklenica | V7 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★★ The pharo’s headstone
Right above the steep sector with ‘pinch of spice’ there is an obvious right trending crack. FA: M. Hitchcock | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Dyno problem
Starting in the crack, move to the undercling and leap to the finishing jug. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | V5 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
Arete
Climb the arete from a sit start. Despite the two other problems on the boulder having good rock, this one seems to be a bit gravelly. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | V3 | 5m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Face to slab
Large moves between very good holds leads you into some slabby moves near the top. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | V4 | 5m | |||||
| 6 |
★ Steepish face
Steepish face from jug | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Face L of arete
Face L of arete | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Easy corner
Easy corner | VB | 5m | |||||
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 | ★ 1. | V4 | 5m | |||||
| 10 |
★ A Dash Of Salt & A Little Bit Of Pepper
SDS Hard thin climbing up the corner FA: Dylan Tubaro FA: Mar 2024 | V4 | ||||||
| 11 |
★★★ Pinch of Spice
Amazing line straight up the middle of the face. Obvious right hand crimp to start and very low left hand, follow horizontal break to top out right. (Direct top out is possible) FA: Ryan Sklenica | V11 | ||||||
| 12 |
★★ Bootstrap Bill
Obvious line off jug to pinch and beyond just right of Pinch of Spice. | V2 | ||||||
| 13 |
★ 4.
Historical as of 2022. Rockfall has rendered this boulder impossible (it now litters the base of Pinch of Spice). Potential for new route in overhung space left over. | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 14 |
★ Pharo’s arete
The right arete of ‘Pharos headstone’, start with low left side pull and right hand on sloper arete slap up to top out as for Pharos headstone FA: Ryan Sklenica | V6 | ||||||
| 15 |
★ V2
SDS on the prominent arete to the right of Pinch of Spice, up jugs | V2 | 1m | |||||
| 16 |
Corner
SDS on the corner flake 1m to the right of arete | V0 - 1 | 2m | |||||
| 17 |
★ V0's
Vertical cracks and over bulge on large slab face | V0 | 2m | |||||
| 18 |
Awkward Corner
SDS in steep cut-out corner towards flakes | V5 | 2m | |||||
| 19 |
Thin Crack
Stand start the thin crack immediately right of 45 degree slab | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Periwinkle Face/Arete
Stand start face and arete of Thin Crack | V4 | 3m | |||||
