Harlequin Buttress Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Will Vidler Ben Hanley Brendan Heywood Lee Cujes Alex Hartshorne Scott Godwin Dylan Tubaro topher Nick Clow Tommy Krauss

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Alguns conteúdos foram fornecidos sob licença de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

1. Harlequin Buttress 23 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Harlequin Buttress 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sazonalidade

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -42.104487, 148.340480

questões de acesso

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.

herdado de Coastal Cliffs

acesso

Continue past whitewater campsite towards the water, turn right and wander along the clifftop track until you locate a set of stone steps just before a 'no vehicles past this point' sign. Follow this down to the wall.

ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (freycinet@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Statewide ethics

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

herdado de Freycinet National Park

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Lunge Or Plunge	22	Unknown 10m
2	The Lone Gunman Up the bulging crack to easier, dirtier and more vegetated ground. Start: A few metres left of 'Crayfish Crack' there are two lines. Start below the left one.	18	Trad 20m
Ocultar Legenda Editar Add item to topo Administrador do croqui Vincular com este croqui Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
3	Crayfish Crack Start: At the bottom left end of the approach ramp is an obvious, unattractive corner.	9	Trad 40m
4	★★★ Forever Young Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors. The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent. FA: Simon Young, 2011	28	Mixed trad 25m, 5
5	★★★ Sweet Revenge	22	Trad 45m
6	★ Beaman's Route Start up 'Sweet Revenge' but traverse right to base of hanging flake and up this.	22	Trad 55m
7	★★★ Beaman's Route Direct Thin face climbing past a bolt leads to the superb hanging flake.	22	Mixed trad 25m, 1
8	★★ Breakout	22	Mixed trad 35m, 1
Ocultar Legenda Editar Add item to topo Administrador do croqui Vincular com este croqui Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
9	★★★ Harlequin Up corner crack to delicate slab above. Finish at double chains.	18	Trad 28m
10	★★ Fist crack on Harlequin ledge Hand/fist crack starting from the far left hand end of the ledge at the top of Harlequin and leading to the top of the cliff. Watch out for the loose flake lodged in the top of the crack that could easily cut your belayer in half. FA: Some crustry tradster in nineteen dickety two.	17	Trad 12m
11	The Only Fruit	25	Unknown 10m
12	★★ Harlequin Variant	24	Trad 40m
13	★★★ Heat Of The Night Right of Harlequin. Awesomely steep crack to technical groove above.	24	Trad 25m
14	★★ Granite Planet	27	Trad 35m
15	Sing Of The Wingers	24	Trad 35m
16	King Of The Swingers	24	Trad 35m
17	Hot Spot	23	Trad 20m
18	★★ Ice Nine A popular climb, and the easiest in the area. Can be easily linked in one single pitch. Finish as for Harlequin Start: On top of the large boulder at the base of the cliff at the far right of the crag.	16	Trad 35m, 2
19	Kettle Chips	23	Unknown 10m
20	★ Al's Jump Jump for the jug a few metres to the right of the start of 'Ice Nine'. Mantle, and continue to the top with minimal pro in spots.	21 R	Trad 35m
21	★★ Bokonon	15	Trad 31m
22	The Parting Of The Ways	16	Trad 60m
23	★ unnamed	16	Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
9		Crayfish Crack	Trad 40m
15	★★	Bokonon	Trad 31m
16	★★	Ice Nine	Trad 35m, 2
		The Parting Of The Ways	Trad 60m
	★	unnamed	Trad 30m
17	★★	Fist crack on Harlequin ledge	Trad 12m
18	★★★	Harlequin	Trad 28m
		The Lone Gunman	Trad 20m
21 R	★	Al's Jump	Trad 35m
22	★	Beaman's Route	Trad 55m
	★★★	Beaman's Route Direct	Mixed trad 25m, 1
	★★	Breakout	Mixed trad 35m, 1
		Lunge Or Plunge	Unknown 10m
	★★★	Sweet Revenge	Trad 45m
23		Hot Spot	Trad 20m
		Kettle Chips	Unknown 10m
24	★★	Harlequin Variant	Trad 40m
	★★★	Heat Of The Night	Trad 25m
		King Of The Swingers	Trad 35m
		Sing Of The Wingers	Trad 35m
25		The Only Fruit	Unknown 10m
27	★★	Granite Planet	Trad 35m
28	★★★	Forever Young	Mixed trad 25m, 5