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The Shining Wall

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
2
AU
19

Descrição

The Shining Wall is the buttress of highly polished rock just R of the Arches. The L end has two prominent L slanting lines. R of here the foot of the cliff is undercut. Just R is a small patch of scree. Culture Shock and Strange Attractor start here.

Questões de acesso herdado de Frenchmans Cap Area

It's a 25km hike from the Lyell Highway.

Ética herdado de Frenchmans Cap

Trad, but some bolts exist where trad is not possible.

Frenchmans Cap is in The Franklin - Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and subject to the Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area Management Plan. Climbing is addressed on pages 143-14 of the plan. Some of the presceriptions related to climbing are:

• The area will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area. • The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited. • Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS. • Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted. • Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.

Vias

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Grade Via

Solo up L to good ledge. Line heads up L below roof split by off-width. Superb, exposed climbing on lovely, orange rock

  1. 45m. From L end of ledge, climb up for 10m. Now up L towards small, grey ramp at L end of huge, orange roof. Thin on lip of slab about 6m below and just L of off-width, with undercut wall below. Up and L towards grey ramp. From start of this, drop below it and climb L on juggy wall to arête. Up to small alcove.

  2. 40m. Take R alternative, up bulge. Continue on schisty but sound rock to good ledge below two grooves.

  3. 30m. Scary. Up L groove on poor rock and minimal pro, heading L to short, R-arching flake. Rock and pro improve greatly towards end of flake (there is only about 5m of really loose rock.) Up. Step L just above flake.

  4. 45m. Up easily to big grassy ledge. Up flake-cracks on L.

FA: Peter Steane, Doug Fife (alt) & Doug Fife, 1992

Big juggy-looking corner above start of Culture Shock.

  1. 45m. Easy climbing on excellent, sparsely protected rock towards corner.

  2. 40m. Fairly straightforward climbing up corner to about 7m below roof.

  3. 45m. Corner and roof. Corner. Step R and head up easier-angled rock to small tree.

FA: Doug Fife & Peter Steane, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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Tue 20 Jun
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