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Disbelief Cave

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Fotos: 12
  • Ascensões: 63

Access: Glow Worm Tunnel Road roadwork closures until April 2024

Glow Worm Tunnel Road closed at junction with Old Coach Road due to Nat Parks road and tunnel work. Due to reopen April 2024. Check Nat Parks website for updates. https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/walking-tracks/glow-worm-tunnel-walking-track/local-alerts

See warning details and discuss

Created 6 months ago - Edited 10 weeks ago
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Descrição

The two gob-smacking crack lines in the cave proper leave you in a state of disbelief. There are other old school looking cracks in the direct vicinity of the cave.

Questões de acesso

Trad area

Acesso

As per Rain Cave access track. Instead of turning left at the 500m cairn, continue straight and downhill for roughly another 500m (no track). Veer left at the top of the cave or slightly before towards a natural clearing. You will find an access ridge just before beautiful orange little caves.

Ética herdado de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

This is the short version of the climb Beyond Belief. It goes slightly overhanging on good hand jams to heavily overhanging on wider hands/fists. It basically stops close to the turning point where the proper ceiling is starting. You'll know if you're just in "Disbelief" or willing to go Beyond Belief at this point. Grade can feel on the soft side if you have large hands.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 25 Jul 2018

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 26 Feb 2019

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 9 Jan 2023

The obvious hand crack to the right of the amazing beyond belief cave.Up flared hands much harder then it looks into corner system and right under roof finishing up A Right chimney.

FA: zachary vertrees & jamie corkins, 7 Mar 2019

The central crack line up to flake joining A left crack, to finish up A right chimney..Extremely good.

About 10m right of cave in shallow alcove. Nice hands and fists corner crack leads to slightly thrutchy offwidth section and into small cave and rest. Back out of cave and up into chimney to top.

A bunch of large cams as needed, plus some medium stuff for in or above Chimney section. Best to belay from very base of route. Grades from 18 to 20 were suggested so we averaged it out to 19... enjoyable old school climbing ...

FFA: zachary vertrees, Macciza a.k.a. Macca & J Corkins, 2 Mar 2019

The gob-smacking brutish looking line opposite the main cave. The type of line that looms over you daring you to step up and give it a try... Does it even go?, how hard?, how wide?, how wild? and that roof... wow ...

A steepish offwidth start (after bouldering up initial section to reach the first gear) arcs up, narrowing into merely a wide crack then a brief loose section before reaching the belay in alcove at roof. Some loose stuff about here so be careful. Gr 20? ~35m?

Novel moves horizontally out a wide bell/bombay slot then drop down weirdly into good fist crack to turn lip and easily to top. Belay off large chockstone or bollards. Rap-off bollard on double ropes. Gr 21? ~20m?

Gear: 1 or 2 BigBro #4's, a few #6 Cams, a couple of 5's, a few 4's, and singles down to Purple, vary number of large gear depending on how solid you feel... Belay takes good #2-4 cams, best to hang out near edge.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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