Ascensões em West Face

Sandbagged. That is not a 10. 17 approx feels right by modern standards.

Climbed twice (the grade 5 version not the original line), trying to work-out where the route goes compared to the North West track that merges on the ledge system above. I made a 5-min movie here:

Climbed twice up & down, trying to work-out where the route goes compared to the Alpine Route. I made a 5-min movie here:

More like a scramble with some hiking than a climb. Hardest part is the beginning.

I've never been spanked so hard by so low of a grade

The chimney starting the Alpine route was deathly slippery due to wet lichen from rain the previous day, so diverted left onto this. With nothing more than a couple of prusiks and two slings for a rack this was somewhat of an engaging experience. Neither the carrot bolt (slung with a slip knot, there wasn’t enough space for a clove) nor either of the two prusik barrel knots I had jammed in the crack slightly above and below it were going to keep me off the ledge 10m below if I slipped. The few crimps were not especially positive and gave a distinct sense of impermanence, and what jams there were were shallow and flaring.

Oh, and I was in my TX4s. Slab is life?

It’s a nice climb! Just bring your rack

Some mug who shall not be named left his rack and draws at home thinking they were in his pack. As a result, climbing The Martian became non viable and an alternative route was selected. The Alpine Route was selected as a soloable option that looked like fun.

Given that it was only a 10, ie. a bushwalk, Mug elected not to bother with his climbing shoes, or his chalkbag, and to do the route in approach shoes for comfort. As the one responsible for said predicament, Mug also had to lead.

Mug started up the Alpine Route having stolen all the available prusiks, slings and lockers from the harnesses of his compatriots, but the wet lichen from the previous days rain made the first pitch chimney slippery death, and he diverted left onto Break Of Noon for the first pitch as an easier safer option. This formed the most memorable part of the day (see above).

After reaching the anchors of Break Of Noon, serious consideration was given to retreat, but Mug elected to explore in the direction of the pink tape, and found the rest of the route to be, as described, a pleasant, soloable, bushwalk, maybe grade 2. The pink tape was helpful in reassuring a frayed confidence, but the path was generally clear enough to be navigated without it.

All in all, a pleasant day out.

Up via the North West, across to Shell Rock, to summit and then down via the tourist track (Hiker's Route)

Rather desperate moves to 2nd FH, then 3rd FH. Thin crimping on slippery slab above. Not a pleasant experience.

Very thin, crimpy moves.

Some tight chimneys lots of plant life and a little choss But still great fun Route finding wasn't to difficult we did in 5 pitches of decent climbing with bush bashing before and after Highligh was definitely climbing in the front door of shell rock really cool formation

Epicness! Bugger all gear with us loose rock and bushes from evil land! Was awesome fun tho.

some OK moves but not much OK rock

Loose, dirty and shity rock but the moves were good and the pro was ok.Lee,s finest hour:-}

onsight barefoot solo (don't try that at home)

onsight sandal solo

Not bad fun. 1st pitch is the best, the last pitch is more of a walk than a climb

Good first pitch. The rest pretty easy. Pitch 1 ate my #1 Metolius cam which had to be abandoned. :-(

From what little I've done on Beerwah this is a very nice trad route. The last pitch is basically a walk off at gr.1 or so, but gets you up to the shoulder & tourist track. With Dave. P1 is the best, most sustained pitch, but P3 had me slipping on wet rock & I ended up bypassing that bit. There was a lor of latent water pools on the route & some of our gear got wet.

First ascentionist undertook the following work: - Added new BR at crux (30m) on first pitch- All pitches now finish at double bolt belays- New 4th pitch (60m) added.

my first new route I think

My first new route in SEQ? Can't believe it's been repeated!