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The Hourglass Cliffs

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Fotos: 56
  • Ascensões: 35
15

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Sumário

90m high at its highest point, dominated by the Frogmouth Cave in the middle. North facing, it gets the sun all day long.

Routes are arranged L to R.

Descrição

Rock quality varies, super soft ignimbrite in the Frogmouth Cave, to quite hard on the face.

Questões de acesso herdado de Mt Maroon

Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:

walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:

This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.

Acesso

The most direct approach: walk up the hiker's track till you arrive at the treeline, keep walking for another 200m until you see the first QPWS sign:

Walk back about 30m & you'll see a faint trail on the Right.

Follow this trail down to & across the gully & up the steep slope opposite, following the cairns & track, till you see the rocky outcrop, this will bring you to the top lh side of The Hourglass Cliffs.

Following this pathway, the NP boundary starts around the gully & steep walk up.

Ética herdado de Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

História

Gráfico cronológico das vias

First developed by Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly in 1972, who pegged their way up Peregrine Assault, later in the 70s by Trevor & Robert Staszewski, with Hourglass. Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook established a mixed route here in the 90s. In 2010, Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont established 8 routes here.

Alguns conteúdos foram fornecidos sob licença de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Setores

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Vias

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Grade Via

Start: 20m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, in front of a large spotted gum.

  1. 40m 18 Up heading towards 3rd corner Right of the Hourglass pillar, trend Right towards crack, then Left to belay on low angle wall.

  2. 20m Up 7m, then Left to cross roof/corner at break, then 10m Left to belay.

  3. 20m Up Right past water streak, then up Left to iron bark & belay on ledge.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Glynn Thomas, 1994

Start: 50m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, there is a corner which sweeps up, then out right, start below this.

  1. 35m 17 Bridge up corner, belay where crack sweeps right.

  2. 35m 17 Left to arête, up to ledge with largish tree.

  3. 25m 12 Up, then Left to belay trees. Abseil from these.

FA: Robert Staszweski & John Mendoza, 1994

Start: Just left of Sometimes I Do. Up the crackline, to a FH & mallion, continue up, passing another FH.

FA: unknown

Up the slope, right of the Frogmouth Cave. Crack & face climbing. The first bolt can be spotted from the ground.

FA: Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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