Vias em Central Coast para uma graduação selecionada

Start as for 'Windward Passage', tending right along the black rock to top out directly above next crack.

3m left of signpost, sit start to left of crack. Up onto slopers, left a metre then up.

Start on two scoops on left. Head right on ledge (DON’T USE THE VERY LOOSE FLAKE ABOVE LEDGE IT WILL BREAK OFF) through pockets and up.

Onto Ground Flake just left of Alcove and straight up

Up slab a metre right of Descent, through bulge and kindest top out of the boulder

Start at sloping ironstone rail and right hand side pull, up to jugs then mantle

Sit start with hands down on far left of good break, up on some good edges then undercling head right to join the top of neighbouring problem

Sit at pocket on right, up and traverse left to arete to mantle. Good but undercut foot rail.

Sit under arete then up ironstone rib staying on steep side until the top of arete is reached

Start on pocket and sloper. Reachy with an awkward topout.

Start matched on nice big undercling under the lip, then pop up to ledge. Traverse the lip out left staying low and then top out using huge victory jug.

Start as for "The Gingerbread Man" but pop out slighty right before making your way straight up through slopers (cool double bump sequence) and then topping out using huge scoop out the left. Vault the final scoop as you top out for some extra fun!

Slab between the 2 cracks in middle of wall left of chimney. Starts under flake to FHs. Single U bolt lower off

Bridge corner to start, then move out on to face to thin top.

The first route on the next wall after Open your eyes. Straight up the wall. The anchors are over the top. Your can walk to the top via the gully before Blind Faith. Fun!

Walk R beyond the cave to the next wall. Daily Bread starts below a L leaning crack (Pearly Gates). Climb past the first two bolts of Pearly Gates and trend acutely L following the diagonally leading U-Bolts. A fun route. Not too hard. Lower off anchor.

Start matched on the inside jug rail no feet on lower rock in the cave, come out through good edges then bust up left to mega jug, then up through scoop and top out

Sit/crouch start with L/H on undercling and R/H on incut sloper. Hard first move into sloped edge on the right then make your way left to top out around the left side of the feature.

Sit start matched on jug rail, slap the arete and up to lip to topout

Sit start L/H on sidepull edge R/H on arete, bump up arete and gain the lip to mantle

Start matched as for jiggsy on lowest jug, move up then big move up left to slopey slot on arete, then up and mantle

Start where there is a step up in the cliff through overlap. Go direct ( snakes inhabit pockets to left) through roof then traverse left to quick links.

The route left of the corner chimney. Hard start to move right up scoops to ledge then off ledge to anchors. Be wary of wasps that sometimes nest in the scoops. Monty can be top roped from the anchors if you don't have trad gear.usually dry in rain.

Scary Second pitch/extension to Flying circus .

Plug 1 and 1.5 friend in pockets to right then launch out roof on OK but thin holds and iffy mantle to tree. Carefull off the flakes on the mantle. lower to pythons anchor. Falling will hurt, would be 2* with bolts.

Thin crimpy climb just right of the main crack line.

Start as for The only way out. Big move to the arete using the block on the right to top out early

Begin with the same start as the only way out. Sit start with both hands matched on the jug. Move left along the main prominent jugs and crimps above the charcoal flake (which may be used for footwork). Half way there is a nice foot jam to rest. Continue to end of line-finish with both hands on final jug along line.

Variation of 05 Holden. Same starting position as 05 Holden, except cannot use the main jug directly above starting hold. Dynamic power move to first jug on adjacent wall. Continue along 05 Holden to finish.

Variation of 06 Holden- use same hand holds, albeit no footwork on the charcoal flake-footwork to match hands along the jugs and pockets.

The big tall pinnacle straight ahead past the statues and down the hill a fraction. High boulder. Start to right of shallow crack (beginning head height). Right and Left hand-half pad width crimp. Move up and shift left, placing right foot in shallow crack before moving back right to crimp. Work way directly up through a range of crimps and pinches to the main ledge roughly 1m from the top. Main ledge is about 6-7m up and huge-its a platform. Mantel finish- somewhat sketchy considering height. The moves on the face are relatively easy, the crux is low. Grade (V2/V3) reflects mental component and mantel finish at height.

2m right again. Up through the carrots onto the slab and keep going.

Matched start on jagged blocky crimp moving directly up to top out

Start start with hands on left and right pockets moving straight up via flat rail and undercling flake to top out.

Stand stand on opposing sidepulls or matching the right sidepull, moving up and slightly right to top out.

Shared start as for 'Cha Siu Bao' but moving more right to top out.

Start as for the low shield then move up and make a tall move out right to the sticking out a horn then top out.

Rising lip traverse along the top of the left hand wall. Good warmup

Low sit start with feet under roof. Up to the slopey break, left along it then up

The inverted V right of InH, straight up, sit start

Sit start on right arête of bay side of boulder. Up arête to undercling and when on slab follow ramp left to tree branch descent

Start as for WC at large dishes near arête and follow diagonal line right to top out

Down and right of small cave where track meets crag, as the direction of the cliff changes there is a boulder at track level with a diagonal seam leading to a scoop. Sit start, climb up through scoop then left to top out at large angaphora.

Climb the crack as for incy wincy but all hand holds are in.

Start matched on left side of block, then right move out to compression then top out.

One of the last boulders when walking north, clearly visible up on the left. Sitstart to some great moves on juggy pockets to a classic mantle.

Video link https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZEaNkTJ4u5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

On right hand side of the same bloc as The Aquarius.

Low start on small crimps. Climb up and left using good edges until you make the arete and then traverse up and right along it until you make the “V” shaped jug 2/3rds of the way up. Top out from there to finish.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYgUPWJA6b/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

A lowball traverse about 30m south of the 'The Aquarius'. Start on the right, feet low and hands on the solid middle ledge. A first move to a high jug followed by a traverse left sticking to hands on the ledge. Make the crux move across the first major break of the ledge, then up and over. Avoid all crumbly jugs/edges.

First boulder you get to when walking in. Pumpy V2. Start near the sign and traverse the edge to mantle near the arete.

Sit start from the low horizontal sloper rail and work your way up using the arete, top out left.

On the right side of The Hive bloc, sit start using the lowest holds. Go straight up. Anything to the left of the vertical iron band is out for hands.

As for PL to first big scoop on left wall. Hop in, dyno/reach break, monkey horizontally left and finish up crack in arete. Not yet equipped.

Climbs the best rock on the wall without too many weird mantle moves. Start as for Sea of Slopes to 3rd bolt. Traverse right to 'Siesta' - up this past several bolts to the 'ledge' where you can traverse left to the anchors above Sea of Slopes.

Climb out to the jugs via the easiest method. Finish on the obvious deep break as for "Whats Golden" or you can traverse the break off to the right for a little extra

Start: Sit start in the little cave on the right hand wall.

Use the arete as a left hander and a hand jam on the right keeping mostly to the right of the arete

Problem on boulder opposite shake n bake flake.

Start as for Shake & Bake 'Flake' but head straight up and over.

Standing start in the middle of heavilly pocketed wall. Climb directly up through the sockets.

Standing start to the left of the prow. Start matched on big dish then move up right through flake to top.

Climb the corner using some intermediate side pulls

Start: As for 'Jettison', on the undercling

Climb past the hole and over. Usually wet

Start: Standing below the dirty seeping hole

Climb the left hand arete keeping your eye out for the hidden pocket and your feet on the R/H wall

Start: Sit start on the low pocket near the L/H arete. , 'Arete' left of Road side assistance)

Pull on and mantle the slopey top

Start: Standing start in about the middle of the back face of the boulder.

A tricky little slopey arete. Pull on from a standing start and climb the arete proper without using the face holds around right.

Sit start below the pointed nose of the Alien Boulder on a big pocket. climb up and over to top out.

Start: Alien boulder, sit start below rounded pocket.

Sit start climb up using left 'Arete' only

Start: Sit start on left arete, Baby Bloc

Much the same as the left. Climb using only right arete

Start: Baby Bloc, Sit start R/H arete

Start below Hungery sex Tables. A low traverse right below the middle horizontal break. Finish as for 'Childs Play'.

Start: As for H.S.T

Start at low juggy block. Climb straight up, topping out slightly right

Start: Standing start 2m right of skyline

sart at right end of wall at offwidth and traverse left along entire wall to tree. Crimp endurance training

Climb out left from the small cave and over. Some good holds above make for an easy top out

Start: Sit start on the left of the small cave

Sit start near the R/H 'Arete' on the low ledge. Climb the arete to finish at the top of the prow as for 'Chopping block'

Start: Sit start near Right 'Arete'

Climb up veering slightly right. The arete is off

Start: Standing 1m right of arete.

Climb directly up the blankish section

Start: Standing about middle of block

At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.

2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.

2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start.

2m right of M. 4 BRs and mid sized friends.

Up SB then veer right, the back left to rejoin SB to finish. 4 BRs.

20m left of Sweet Mamma. Up right side of blunt arete passing 2 BRs and 1 RB. Take care with opening gate on second runner.

2m right of TLG. Up thin wall. 4 BRs. DBB .