Vias como sport em Queensland

Climb through obvious steep bulge in centre of wall to low anchors. Six FH’s

The right most line on the good looking wall. Quite a good route. Up the slab through a couple of increasingly tricky bulges. Seven FH’s

Starts 5m down right at the very easy looking slab. Spot a high first FH. Lower off

Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.

1. 25m (19) 5FHs: Start at the big tree at the apex of the path (just to the right of CC). Veers left for first 2 bolts then straight up past 3rd FH to old rap chain on ledge, then continue up and R past 1 FH to DBB.

2. 25m (15) 7FHs: Nice moves keeping L of the FHs all the way up the black wall to the big belay ledge and DBB. Sustained and enjoyable climbing.

3. 20m (21) 8FHs. Up slabby climbing past 3FHs to good rest before powering up the crux section consisting of 2 small parallel chimneys to nice foot ledge. It's not over yet, then balancy, crimpy climbing for 2 bolts and easy moves to DBB.

Rap down the way you went up.

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

1. 30m (18) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting with long runouts. Scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor.

2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at about half way. Mind the choss before the belay.

3. 20m (20) Up through some bad rock to small roof, left and up with balance and strong manoeuvres to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge.

4. Pitch 4 options: 4a) 35m (17) Wander right off the belay, up the steep gully and skirt under overhang then continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right. Up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rappelled. 4b) 28m (24) From belay, head straight up and over slab passing a single ring and chain belay. Continue left up the tricky overhanging corner and pull the lip with a few punchy moves. over the lip head right through shrubbery to a DBB on a bushy ledge.

5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the 'less than inspiring rock'. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

Ten sport draws are sufficient however two additional long or extending draws would help to smooth out rope drag in places. Take a 70m rope if intending to link pitches.

Rap using one of the options:

A) Rap back down route.

From Airtime anchors rap by walking backwards along tip toe ridge trending slightly to the right (looking back up the ridge) to the bushy ledge anchors at the top of the 4th pitch. Rap from the top of the 4th pitch by walking back left i.e. down the alternate (24) pitch not down the (17) pitch, you can rap to the 3rd pitch DBB by doing it this way. From the top of the 3rd pitch rap to the top of the second pitch, you'll have to rap past the rap anchors due to the overhanging nature of the terrain, climb about 2 metres back up to the DBB. From here you can either rap to the ground via an intermediate rap chain half way directly down or continue rappelling down via the 1st pitch by rapping to the end of your rope and carefully walking 10m to the right to the DBB anchor of the 1st pitch. Due to the rappels being not straight down be mindful to not let go of your rope when anchoring in at DBB's. You should only need one 60 metre rope for climbing and rappelling if you follow instructions.

B) Down Airtime Over Pumicestone.

2x 60m ropes required. Straight down the bushy gully for about 40m. Then small belay ledge on left. Straight abseil to hanging belay under a tiny overhang on right. Then rap to ground.

First Contact begins 5m L of Banished For Infidelity. 7 FHs, lower-off.

2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

This modern traverse into Cave 4 is now bolted (2), making the massive exposure a tad saner. Anchors at the lip of Cave 4.

From Cave 3, scramble down the rock apron, then left to the dirt ledge with small trees on, from here, step up to high first bolt:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - 2 clips on the traverse

then down, out on ledges, to 2nd clip, continue around the arete, on smaller ledges & massive exposure, till the anchor (and sanity) is reached at the lip of Cave 4:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - Anchors in Cave 4

Unknown sport route on the right side of Cave 4.

1. Head left and up from alcove anchor to generous ledge, 10m of grade 4 climbing with no bolts. Clip FH and swing out right off the end of the ledge and into featured steepness. Up through infinity and beyond deviating left to a short corner and then stepping right to a belay stance to anchor. Some long slings will help alleviate drag.

2. Easily up and slightly left to first FH, then more or less straight up steep wall trending right slightly towards the end. Steep climbing with hands free rests when you need them, turn the last lip and enjoy the easy slab to anchor. Outrageous position and unique features make this climb a Tibro classic.

Decent: Have your second tag up a 60m rope or tag line and rap back to the ground. The longest free hanging rappel of the Summit Caves!

The most exposed climb in South East Queensland, combined with high lactic levels will have your head spinning.

15m left around the corner from Four Seasons starting in mini cave. Boulder rightwards past first bolt to easy ground up right on trending ramp past two more FH's. Straight up through some wild sections separated by good rests eventually creeping your way right across a balance ledge to Somebody Else's Weirdo's last bolt and then anchor. Watch your rope doesn't get caught as you swing around the arête.

Short and powerful route that could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of the small cave with amazing rock features. 4 closely spaced FH's with very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug.

Start up Punk's Not Dead past two FH's then move left across ledge to base of shallow groove (below white-ish streak). Straight up to knobs and a good rest. Reach left and blast up steep wall to gain a hanging ledge before the anchor.

Reachy crux on marble like rock. From knob reach right (not left) to clip FH. Another few metres of hardness (FH) brings you to the lower-off. Avoid using blocks above anchor! Basically follows white streak up right side of this wall.

Beautiful orange rock, tricky crux.

A short, exposed, burly route on quality rock. Starts from the cave belay atop the second pitch of Trojan and the top of Four Seasons. Should give you grief. Slide out right of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted arête. Up to powerful under-clinging and lay backing in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off.

Perfect rock and powerful movement sees you into a hard transition, leaving you gasping at Achilles crux.

Climb Four Seasons then break right at the last bolt to reach hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and right of Trojan's cave about 8m). The Bends starts here. Reach up from under-cling to clip first bolt then leftwards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing left for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles.

Some of the most bomber rock on Tibro.

Starts as for The Bends but continue climbing straight up, Don't skip the crux by escaping left into Achilles at half way, strong bouldery crux move at the very end will give you grief. Finish at the Achilles anchors.

Immaculate rock meets extremely exposed position. Clip the first bolt of The Bends then head hard right, traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around arête and up a beautiful bright orange wall to a rest in mini cave. Reach out right to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heartbreak up the last little headwall to anchor.

Big and bold, a King Line of the Summit Cave. Devotion required. To start, set a belay on the ledge atop Trojan's first pitch using the first bolt of this route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse right. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow hold'. Then breach crux to gain the corner of In Between Dreams. Finish up this.

Start just right of the 'T' for Trojan. The access pitch to In Between Dreams and Summit Sutra. Balance start to some stemming moves.

Climbs through the airy featured roof into the mind boggling slab overhang corner. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Start as for IBD for a few bolts then head right, beautiful head wall with tough bouldery moves. Back jump to clean.

Closed Project. Climbs the steepest and most insanely exposed overhang of the Summit Caves. To access, climb Morning of the Earth and continue climbing past the anchors up the ramp, Clip the ancient FH and continue to the very back of the ramp to find a DBB. From here the mega steep begins.

Start in the gully left of Short and Sweet, high first bolt. Follow easy crack that sickles rightwards. When it ends head straight up to clip bolt in shallow left-facing corner below a bulge. Once established on bulge, head out left to slopey edges and laybacks (two more FHs) and a lower-off at the top left of the wall.

Start same as for Hyperballad to its second FH on the bulge . Head out right (FH) then straight up on great rock clipping a further three FH's to a ledge with lower off.

1. 20m (22) Great rock, never too hard, just hold on. Just right of Morning of the Earth, high first bolt. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing.

2. 15m (25) Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FHs). Gain finger-sized crack (trad) that sends you left into the 'Bell cave' belay. The hard section is short and steep. Powerful moves sees you into one of Tibro's most private areas. Watch your back.

Decent: 30m abseil or two shorter ones back to the ground.

1. 20m (23) Climb up Short and Sweet for 20m to big rest where you can traverse left onto slick orange wall and clip FH. Crux past this on polished marble like rock to a second FH, Build a anchor on natural small gear or run it out and keep climbing into Pitch 2 for one mega pitch.

2. 15m (23) Gripping exposure. Out right side of cave roof past two FHs on outrageous overhanging rock. Finish up thin slab on perfect little edges past two FHs to double rings. Rap off.

It's possible to combine both pitches and just get back to the ground on stretch using a 60m rope.

1. 30m (21) Start at line of five FHs up wall just right of Short and Sweet. This is technical slab weirdness on great rock. A green cam/friend protects the final section to the anchor. Move right at top to find anchor, or if you're doing pitch 2, make a trad belay on big ledge just before the last steep bit of the corner on Short and Sweet.

2. 15m (21) The first FH is up on the left wall and is a stretch to clip. Don't mistakenly use the first bolt of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (further down in corner) or the first FH of Walk the Line (further up right in corner). Swing up left on jugs to gain hanging juggy wall and second FH (shared with Walk the Line). Continue straight up passing another two FHs through steepening terrain to join Circlet at its third RB. Finish up this to lower-off.

Gets stars only for the exciting conclusion and position. Start this route from the DBB atop My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma. Get here by either climbing Short and Sweet, Big Empty, The Digital Revolution or My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma Pitch 1. Traverse directly left across hanging orange wall (underneath start of Circlet) passing two FHs until you reach the belay ledge and trad belay for Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (small - medium gear). Go up onto large ledge and continue walking left until the ledge starts to steepen. Behind you on overhead wall is a FH (second FH of Bird of Prey p2). Clip this and continue left onto unlikely terrain and a final FH. Thrilling moves gain a belay ledge in a spectacular position under a jutting out roof. Extend a few pieces to alleviate drag. Descent is a 30m free-hanging rap to the ground.

Very exposed steep chugging on wall right of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' second pitch. Starts at the top of Short and Sweet and traverse left a few moves then up and around the arête to a small cave with anchor but don't stop here, blast up left on slopers to finish at Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' anchor. Three ringbolts and two FHs.

1. 30m (20) Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire or 0.75 cam if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out right and follow the line of FHs leading up and right to DBB.

2. 15m (18) Cross over Short and Sweet (reach out left and clip Walk the Line's first FH with a long sling). Head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching left to clip the second RB, continue directly up the wall past two FH's. Follow big holds leftwards around the arête and up (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it's 35m rappel to the ground or two raps if you stop at the pitch 1 anchor.

Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up orange rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the wall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with The Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Line of black bolts to the right of high definition. Contrived as it is awkward. Stay out of the "Nuts in my Mouth" crack on the right.

Punchy boulder problem off the deck leads to a hands free rest ledge. The business starts on the upper head wall. Thin and technical boulder problem leads to a tricky mantle finish.

Just left of Cave 5. Quite high first bolt. Past 4 spaced FHs to chains.

First climb you come to in the cave. Up flakey orange rock on slopey holds, to hard move around bulge. Finish 3m up head wall.

Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of Seven Year Itch. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

Open Project. Puniverse into the Creationism project. Slightly more doable than Creationism. Have at it!

Start 7m left of Groundhog Day. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing right.

Open Project. Extension to NMR. Long standing project through the steepest continual roof in the Summit Caves. Will most likely be Summit Caves hardest line when completed.

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

Start 6m left of Groundhog Day. Up the overhanging corner traversing left to clip the shared lower-off with No Membership Required.

The right most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms.

Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.

Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.

1. 35m 12 FHs to rap station (DBB).

2. 35m 11 FHs to rap station (Ring and chain). Use long draws to minimise drag coming under and around the rooflet

Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here. Alternatively, head up 3m from P2 anchors to bushy ledge and walk left to join up with the Caves Route.

Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.

1. 32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.

2. 38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.

3. 35m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.

From final DBB it's easy to scramble a few metres right into Cave 3:

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - Top of Zeitgeist scramble into Cave 3

then up over the scree shoulder & down, into the very large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Scramble down through Cave 1 out right, to the DBB. Descent from here, via the 'Caves Route' consists of 3 raps = will get you down on a single 60m.

Descent back down Zeitgeist on a single 60m rope: 4 raps will get you to the bottom slab and then a scramble down to the ground: rap down to the first DBB, 5m above the 2nd belay, mid pitch 3.

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - First rap station from the top; pitch 3

From here, rap to the next DBB, mid pitch 2 - about 15m above the first belay station on the big ledge.

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - 2nd rap station = 15m above first belay on big ledge

Then a 15m rap to the big ledge, and pitch one belay.

From here, a full 30m rap will get you to the top of the slab, with some careful down scrambling to the ground.

NOTE: IT'S STILL 4 RAPS USING A SINGLE 70M!

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC.

This climb starts roughly where the track meets the wall, marked "MSMS"

A nice route that follows a line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with After Dinner Delight. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Start 2m R of After Dinner Delight, marked “CC”

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Banana King. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

Start 2m R of Cookie Monster, unmarked.

Follow the line of 6 FHs to a DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade.

Start 3m R of The Real Rainbow Unicorn, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with One Eyed Wanderer. Gently trend L after the 3rd bolt to find the 4th bolt (hidden from the ground) just over the ledge. Moving R here will push you onto One Eyed Wanderer and away from this bolt.

Start 1m R of Glove Slap, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Glove Slap.

Start 2m R of One Eyed Wanderer, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Papa Smurf.

Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked.

A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis.

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

Traverse the crag from left to right. Fun, easy climb with a few crimpy/compression moves to add spice. Use as many extenders as you have to minimise rope drag. Have another friend/a mobile to communicate with your belayer if it's windy!

Follow the line of least resistance: start at Kind to be cruel's first bolt. Then Dancing in the rain's 2nd bolt. Clip next climb, then the bolt hidden under the grass. Move down to Charlie's 2nd bolt. Continue at this level for the next 5 climbs. Head up to Lichen the candy's 3rd bolt, and The real rainbow unicorn's 3rd. Down to Glove slap's 2nd bolt. Down to One eyed wanderer's 1st, and Old Elvis' 1st. Up to the 2nd bolts on Papa smurf, Fairy floss and Happy pants. To finish, either climb Happy Pants to the anchor or traverse a few metres unprotected until you reach the end of the rock.

An adventure route up an interesting section of Tibro. Take some long slings and 14 draws and either a double rope or trail a second rope if rapping (40m rap). Optional #3 C4 Camalot or medium hex, although most leaders will be confident running it out or slinging ironwoods in the absence of gear. There are some run out sections and there are patches of poor rock, interspersed with sections of fun and exposed climbing.

Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. The Ross Miller Route starts directly above this small crag. To access this ledge, head left uphill until the rock face turns back in to form an alcove with a large tree in it. Scramble up the rock on the right-hand side of the tree and traverse right for about 20m. You will find a leftward trending gully with bolts on the headwall directly on its right-hand side. The route begins here.

Route:

1. 25m (18) Up to FH then tricky moves right to 2nd FH, follow the line of FH's avoiding suspect rock as necessary.

2. 25m (15) Typical Tibro face climbing following line of FH's, when you reach the ironwood bushes, clip the abseil re-direct sling and continue up and left to the anchor.

3. 20m (11) Head up the obvious corner directly above the anchor (optional gear) to the tree (sling), continue up the corner to the next tree (sling) then delicately step right and head up to FH on headwall then continue up to anchor.

4. 25m (18) Up following FH's right of blunt arete.

5. 25m (19) Engaging climbing following FH's into corner and out onto top face, continue up to anchor.

6. 15m (13) Climb slabby section following FH's trending left in the second half to anchor at base of head wall.

7. 15m (19) Left off the belay to first FH then cruxy moves for a couple of metres past FH's to anchor avoiding the crumbly holds.

8. 30m (16) Follow the line of well-spaced FH's to anchor, stop to peer into the madness of sport climbing in cave 5 on the way.

There are various descent options, including:

• Continue climbing slightly left and up unprotected but easy climbing and good rock and either rappel left into Cave 5 or down the Caves Route chimney then descend the Caves Route, or

• Traverse right along ledge to scrubby bushes and the 5th anchor of SBB, climb its (unprotected) 6th pitch and walk off, or

• Rap back down the route in 6 pitches:

  1) 30m Straight down to previous anchor (top pitch 7).

  2) 40m Straight down to anchor at top of 5.

  3) 40m Down into free air and then scramble left to anchor at top of pitch

  4) 20m Straight down between the trees then scramble left on the ledge to anchor at top of pitch 2, be careful of loose blocks and small rocks here.

  5) 25m Traverse out right underneath ironwood bushes and clip rope through permanent sling and biner to redirect abseil (missing as of August 2018, rap straight back down to anchor at top of pitch 1 or it may be possible to reach the ground on a 50m rap.

  6) 25m To ground and scramble out the way you came in.

From last belay Chriss Mann Route cross gully and up wall just to right of crude rock, when able move right to less steep ground then back left to 4th or maybe the fifth belay of Blabbermouth

Good stuff! Starts at the same point as Peeping Tom, but traverse directly right to first of three black FHs. There is a pronounced crux lunge at 2nd FH. Rap chains at top.

"A tribute to urban development". A great sustained slab that has been recently updated with 4 additional bolts and an independent finish. Starts 10m right of Highlander at clean slab with line of FHs that splits onto two lines about 10m up. Brick Boxes takes the left line and has a bit of a spicy traverse left at the crux. The rap chain is hidden from below. The '90s version of this route was the first "sport route" on Tibro despite it involving soloing to the current 4th bolt and finishing right to shared anchor of The Black Planet.

Nice climbing on excellent rock with only a brief crux - substantially easier than Brick Boxes. Shared first 3 bolts with Brick Boxes then take the right line of bolts. The rap chain is getting rusty but is still fine to use. The '90s version of this route was missing the first 3 bolts. Yikes!

Pretty decent warm-up to get your toes used to the slab moves around Shadow Glen. Start on the R-most line of bolts at 'Shadow Glen'. If you reach the cave you've gone too far.

Up easy slab to BR (bolt plate required). Over the crux bulge to FH then up easy slab to fishbowl hold (you'll know it). Run it out slightly R to anchor, which could do with some maintenance.

ACCESS: To locate the base of this climb head left of Slider gully for approx 50m till you hit the obvious inlet in rock. Solo up rock and scrub for 20m till you hit the base of the wall. Move left up 4th class for 15m till you're just left of the white streak. The route is the first route directly left of the white streak. Look for the first bolt about 2 metres off the ground. The climb starts here.

ABOUT: A neighbour to the somewhat more adventurous Burning Man, this climb offers a long adventure route that is great for beginners or those looking for a cruisy day in the mountains!

Originally starting further left and higher up, the FA was lead on head piece trad placements in what can only be described as a solid "adventure"! However, the start of the original climb didn't allow easy access and a better way was sought. Eventually a 4 pitch variant start was found just to the left of Burning Man which met with the original line on the exposed south face ridge. The route is fully equipped however you will need to sling a boulder for the top of pitch 8.

Take 10 draws and a couple of extenders.

As this is a new route beware of loose rock.

RETREAT You can rap the route with a 60m rope from the top of pitch 7. It is not advisable to rap from pitch 8 - either scramble up loose rocky path to tourist track or scramble down LHS of buttress to pitch 7 anchors and rap. Complete final rap to the base from an intermediate rap anchor on pitch two.

1. 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

2. 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

3. 25m 12 Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground up start of ridge.

4. 26m 12 Fun moves past the first hanger, then fantastic climbing up airy ridge to belay.

5. 28m 14 Up easy ground before trending right to anchor.

6. 28m 14 Straight up! Enjoy the funky moves over the pillar.

7. 28m 15 Head up past hanger, then scramble through a small patch of bush with option to sling tree (bolts follow after tree). Super fun moves up slab to final belay anchor.

8. 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

To exit, continue up the ridge (being mindful of the abundance of loose rocks) for another 40m to meet the tourist track where hikers will ask about your adventure in awe.

A traverse spanning the entire Andromeda main wall, as well as Legends Wall. Starts and ends on the ground, so it can be climbed from right to left, or left to right. Can be done in a single pitch with an 80m rope if you manage the clips well (so as to avoid unnecessary wandering of the rope, and rope drag). Alternatively, it can be split into two pitches (e.g. belay at Worm Hole’s anchors). As it is a traverse, take special care whether leading or seconding, as a fall could result in a body scraping pendulum. The climb uses 26 bolts from various climbs. Some clips should be extended with slings. To avoid the wrath of other climbing parties, reserve this climb for a quiet weekday with no one else at the crag.

The first ascent was climbed right to left, starting at Absolute Zero, as follows:

1st bolt of Absolute Zero – extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Graviton 3rd bolt of Mars – extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of Horse Head Nebula 4th bolt of Alien Encounter Anchor bolt of Asteroid Belt - extended with a 120cm sling Anchor bolt of Solar Eclipse 4th bolt of Gravitational Equilibrium 4th bolt of Interstellar Journey - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Southern Cross - extended with a 120cm sling 5th bolt of Worm Hole - extended with a 60cm sling (Can belay off anchors if climbing in two pitches) 2nd bolt of Coal Sack 4th bolt of More Dark Matter - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Lunar Eclipse 4th bolt of Event Horizon Anchor bolt of Star Dust - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Nebula Anchor bolt of Orbital Tether - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Black Hole - extended with a 120cm sling 4th bolt of Dugglebutt And The Bus Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of TJ Rothschild - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Mr. Rowland And The 100 weeks Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of The Spitz Roy Massif 3rd bolt of Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend - extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Old Gramps Reeve And His Bodacious Babe 1st bolt of Do Not Shit In The Woods At High Traffic Crags, then back to the ground.

Climb furthest to the right on the cliff. Marked "AZ" but the paint is coming off. Hardest part is the start. Just beware of your poor belayer if you can't make it to the first clip! Long fall to the path. The large block on the right, one used to gain the stance & 1st clip, has now come off. This means the route is now a couple of grades harder and riskier. One has to negotiate the crux unprotected.

Follow the line of 4 RBs straight up to a DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Absolute Zero'. Marked "G" but the paint is coming off.

Straight up following the line of 4 FHs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Graviton' Marked "M".

Straight up following the line of 5 FHs to DBB. Hardest climbing is around the 2nd bolt. Rebolted 2014.

Start 3m L of 'Mars'. Marked "HN".

Follow the bolts straight up to DBB, trend slightly left to anchors. High first bolt, but easy climbing up to that point. Rebolted 2014.

Start 3m L of 'Horse Head Nebula'. Marked "AE".

Follow the bolts to the DBB. High first bolt, but easy climbing up to that point. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Alien Encounter'. Marked "AB".

Follow the line of 3 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 3m L of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "SE".

Follow 4 RBs, trending slightly right, to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Solar Eclipse'. Marked "GE".

Probably the best climb on the cliff. Some nice moves and relatively sustained climbing. Up past a high first RB and 2 FHs, then head L to another RB and up to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline, zig-zaging a bit, clipping 4 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Interstellar Journey'. Marked "SC".

Easier than 'Gravitational Equilibrium' and much easier than 'Worm Hole'. Follow the bolts, traversing R at the top to the 'Interstellar Journey' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Southern Cross', 5m R of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "SC".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Southern Cross'. Then traverse R clipping:

• 1st bolt of 'Interstellar Journey'
• 1st bolt of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'
• 2nd bolt of 'Solar Eclipse'
• 2nd bolt of 'Asteroid Belt'
• 3rd bolt of 'Alien Encounter'

Then straight up to the DBB at 'Alien Encounter' clipping its final bolt on the way.

Start 5m L of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "WH".

A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt. A hold may have come off since the original grading of 18? Regardless, holds are there and just need to be found. Goes well once you know the sequence. Rebolted 2014.

Between the Coal Sack crack and Worm Hole. A hard start, up the vertical face, to 3rd bolt, then easier finish to anchor.

Immediately left of the Coal Sack crack system. Follow ring bolts to the anchor.

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 RBs straight up left of the large loose block, trending right above this, to finish at the DBB. Shared belay with EH. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 RBs. New anchor over lip. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT".

Climb straight up past 3 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.