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Start as for 'Passion' and then from the crimps of that problem head right via two more crimps (or pocket) to gain the start of 'Fashion'. Finish up this.

As for the Grampians Boulder Guide 2016 Edition.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Feminst Theory'.

Right arete of main block

Bouldery climbing on orange scoops. Please read the Bible to continuous improvement.

To access the start, scramble from the main ledge down to a lower tier.

Stunning prominent orange arête that was strangely ignored by previous climbers. The prow with the undercut start 5m right of 'Us Esoterics'. Leap for jug, cut loose out right to arête. Bouldery moves up this on delightful dishes leads to easier climbing before final pumpy bulge. 7 bolts and double ring lower-off. Was originally led on two bolts but sense prevailed and now it’s a very pleasant sport outing.

Takes the black water streak with a super cool and unlikey jump move from make believe holds.

New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby!

Watch the top out! A super route on gritty edges. To start, scramble up to the double fixed hangers, right of 'Curse of the Bilby'.

Your rope might get chewed to shreds when you lower off if you don't extend the anchor.

TG direct finish. Might be 28

A 27 slab.

Just your regular crazy gramps stone.

Left leaning line of FHs 10m left of 'Terminal Insomnia'. Either stickclip first bolt or lean over from pinnacle. Burly traverse leads to technical climbing on gritty pockets. Motor up short corner to a climatic finish. Upgraded

Start as Ocean Rain for a few bolts then go directly up thin grey wall.

Seeps like a waterfall, except during long dry spells. Great moves though.

Sustained and technical with some powerful moves. The route is badly scarred by several aid bolts used to place the 'real' bolts.

Start: Line of flakes up very steep wall in the centre of the crag about 10m left of 'The Dope Man' and just L of a solitary pine tree against the cliff.

Start as dope man.... punch left at ceiling campussing on pockets.

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

30 degree overhung handcrack with bolts!

Start: Starts on ground level directly below Jane's Addiction and about 10m R of 'Body Count'. Upgraded.

This is the left most bolted route on the main prominent orange buttress and follows an undercut orange corner. Stick clip the first bolt. Undercut start then follow hanging corner with as many tricks as you can muster to hang on to the slopey lay-aways. Finish on ledge at U bolt.

On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling.

This now goes free at grade 27, will become super classic trad crack test price. Probably the best true finger crack in the grampians.

Gear 0.1 to 0.5 bd x4

The home of the 'regular' pocket and an excellent hard climb. Wild overhung steepness through cave on left end of main crag with a dubious enhanced start. Bouldery from start to finish with some very funky moves.

Direct start through scoops of afterworld past ringbolts. Joins afterworld for last few bolts.

Left hand variant to the Compressor route. Absorbing and powerful sport climbing up nice orange rock. Climb Compressor Route to fifth RB. Step left under block (RB) and fire up excellent wall above (three RB’s) with some nice big pockets to DRB loweroff

Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off.

Super classic overhung orange wall - mostly bolts but a couple of cams are needed in the middle.

Seam right of Mexican wave.

"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

2m Left of BRD 6FH to DRB lower off.

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires to DRB lower off.

The dimpled wall which used to have old carrots. A bouldery start guards the fun face climbing above.

Blunt arête just R of The Hanging 4 FHs to DRB lower off.

Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff. Shallow corners 15m left of Whitebait. Three eye-bolts. Crack above. Advisable to stick clip the first BR. Rapchains.

Thin offset seam with ringbolts. This looks like a massive sandbag. Prepare to be humbled!

Start 10m left of Angular Perspective.Up steeply past six FHs to lip.

Straight up wall of FL. rebolted 2017

Traverses into TP from Blimp

Start up Ostler, then climb arête above (four BRs) to abseil station.

The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.

The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.

The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.

Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.

1. 33m (26) Climb just left of the RURP-seam into the all-too-obvious line and follow it over a roof to ledge and bolt belay.

2. 24m (13 M2) Corner then four aids to pass roof. Up to conifer.

3. 33m (10) Go 3m right, up to ledge, corner, traverse left then back up right to tree.

4. 12m (-) Scrub

This great arete has probably never had a complete ascent, but all pitches have been climbed.... The bolting on the first pitch really needs to be fixed up.

Start: Start just right of 'Debutante Direct Start'.

1. 25m (26) Up the magnificent blank arete.

2. 20m (18) Right to arete and up to bolt belay on 'The Jesus Factor'.

3. 15m (26) Left on to rib and up past bolt. Finish on right.

Stand start just right of tree, finishing via a desperate mantel.

Climbs the right arete. Start on the faux tufa and follow the vertical seams up the blunt arete to top out.

From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards.

Sit start on crimps, head left and up through gaston and crimp to a high top out.

Climb You Beaut to the crimp. Then make a big span left to the arete. Match and hold the swing before swarming around the arete to finish up the slab.

On the back side of the boulder (left of where the 2 boulders rest against each other), sit start on the flat hold, up to slopers and short face.

Just up the hill from Diagonal Laneway boulder. Start off big side pull and crimp, head up through spanny moves. Bit sandy but still worthy.

Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face.

The awe inspiring crack thru' the orange roof with the big guano streaks beneathe it clearly visible from Halls Gap. Originally a fierce and intimidating aid climb on rotten rock, even more terrifying now it is free. Can be done as a mixed route at about 18 M4 for those who like exposed aid climbing.

Start: 3m R of 'Mocha'

1. 35m (25) Thin crack to rotten ramp. From a small alcove above a bolt climb steep and strenuous crack past scary block to another bolt. Travers 10m R on poor rock to large ledge.

2. 30m (26) L then up corner to roof [hanging belay taken here on first ascent]. Traverse L along break 2m below roof and around nose to hard mantle. Back R to rest below roof. Climb roof and up.

Start as for Rapunzel on the magic pumpkin, but trend up and left with difficulty to the tallest part of the boulder. A tad contrived.

Start low left of Overdose on small crimps. Make a few powerful moves up over small holds leading to the start holds of Overdose, continue up.

The moves at the first bolt are much harder since some holds have been shed. This is followed by some excellent pocket pulling, however it's hard not to escape some of the hard moves up higher. Some wires protect the climbing after the 4th bolt.

The hidden gem of Bellfield peak. A crazy roof climb on near perfect rock. Climb easily up to the ringbolt (or stick clip) and make a tricky dynamic move to the orange jug rail. Double up first cams in the break for the small runout. Grade 23 trad climbing will get you to the hands free slab. Find some good gear and make your way to the bolted roof. Powerful moves guard the top. Have fun. Double rack of cams will be plenty. Be smart to manage rope drag (extend almost everything). Lower off at the top.

Sit start on the low right hand crimp and left hand side pull/undercling. Straight up trend right to top.

Originally given v9 without the high right heel-toe cam.

Start on the low jug, up the underclings and burst through the slopers

On the back of The Crescent, Start on the large rail and move through the slopey edges.

Power and finesse.

Start: 3m left of 'All Out'

The obvious Arapilesean sleazefest through the cave.

Beautiful line taking the centre of the perfect orange wall. Delicate, slippery face climbing. Much harder if you’re short. Probably classic

Seam through bulge past FH to stance. Straight up flake feature to anchor.

Excellent endurance link up of the crux start of purple haze and the pink rabbits head wall. Head right at obvious horizontal and up to hand traverse pillar into PR at second ring on head wall. Requires a bit of trad (.5-2 camelots) but a couple of bolts will make it more popular.

Busts left after bouldery start on Slam Dunk. Sustained!!

Shallow, bulging groove 5m R of Purple Haze.

Pimply bulging wall 6m L of the Flying Buttress detached pillar.

Classic, with a dinky start move. Sit at back of cave in middle of overhang with small edges, press into flake, pull up to crimps and make huge moves to good holds. (Old carrot bolt is out and can't be used for aid)

Next in line of the Galleon three star trio! Another fantastic route on crimps, sidepulls and slopers...Enjoy!! Line left of Kingdom of Fear, then finishes up and right on jugs to same lower off for KoF.

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

2. 30m (25) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this pitch.

Start: Start as for AP

1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

The left arete of the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.