Waddington Range Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Waddington Range 12 routes in Crag

2 3 4 1

1 Mount Waddington 2 Tiedemann Group 3 Serra-Stiletto Peaks 4 Claw Peak

Summary:

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Sazonalidade

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 51.383681, -125.216314

descrição

The Waddington Range, a sub-range of the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, contains the highest peaks south of the border with Alaska. Mount Waddington itself, the range's namesake, towers over the surrounding terrain - but its neighbouring peaks are worth exploring on their own. Combatant, Tiedemann, Asperity, the Serras, Mount Munday and more are all worth trips in their own right, and still contain a large amount of untraveled terrain.

história

The range was first explored by the prolific Don and Phyllis Munday in the early days of the 20th century, where all access was via boat to the head of one of the nearby inlets, and by hiking inland for weeks under massive loads. The Mundays did much of the earliest ascents of peaks in the range, before passing the torch to notables such as Fred Beckey, Don Serl, Peter Croft and many more.

See Don Serl's comprehensive 2003 guidebook The Waddington Range for more history and information on the area.

1.1. Mount Waddington 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.367991, -125.250838

sumário

The highest peak of the Coast Range of BC, Mount Waddington hosts routes ranging from long glacial walkups all the way to highly technical testpieces not often repeated.

descrição

Mount Waddington, once known as Mystery Mountain, is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Although it is lower than Mount Fairweather and Mount Quincy Adams, which straddle the United States border between Alaska and British Columbia, Mount Waddington is the highest peak that lies entirely within British Columbia. It and the subrange which surround it, known as the Waddington Range, stands at the heart of the Pacific Ranges, a remote and extremely difficult set of mountains and river valleys. Source Wikipedia

acesso

Either hike for a week or two up coastal bush-choked valleys from the inlets to the south or the inland plateaus, or take a helicopter. White Saddle Air flies out of Bluff Lake on the Cariboo Highway.

onde ficar

Set up base camp either on Rainy Knob below the Bravo Glacier, or Combatant Col (for the northern routes) or the Epaulette or Buckler Glaciers (for the south).

história

Notable ascents

• 1936 South Face FA by Fritz Wiessner † and Bill House.
• 1942 South Face 2nd ascent by Helmut and Fred Beckey.
• 1977 South Face variation FA of route, 3rd ascent of south face by Jack Tackle and Kenneth Currens.
• 2012 Flavelle-Lane Route First solo ascent of the peak by Colin Haley.

Source Wikipedia

1.2. Tiedemann Group 5 routes in Area

2 1 3

1 Combatant Mountain 2 Mount Tiedemann 3 Mount Asperity

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.397662, -125.237066

sumário

Consisting of Combatant, Tiedemann and Asperity, these mountains host some of the most impressive technical lines in the range on their sunny south and icy north aspects.

descrição

Looking south across the Tiedemann Glacier to Mount Waddington, this group of peaks with their striking south buttresses provide a good contrast to the rounded bulk of Waddington. These buttresses, ridges and hidden faces hold impressive alpine rock climbs - but the seldom-seen north faces above the Radiant Glacier also holds a number of more wintry routes.

acesso

Depends on the route.

1.2.1. Combatant Mountain 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 51.389797, -125.247681

descrição

Rising directly across the Combatant Col from Mount Waddington, Combatant hosts some of the more famous alpine rock routes in the range, including the long, but technically moderate Skywalk Buttress and Kshatrya, as well as the testpieces Perseverance and Belligerance.

acesso

Usually approached from a base camp at the Combatant Col.

1.2.2. Mount Tiedemann 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 51.400213, -125.232693

descrição

Tiedemann, with its broad south face and sweeping, snow-covered north ridge, is the second-highest summit in the range. Less often climbed than its neighbour Combatant, it holds a wide variety of routes ranging from the aesthetic North Arete to the difficult and long Direct South Buttress.

1.2.3. Mount Asperity 0 routes in Area

descrição

Despite its presence beside Tiedemann and Combatant, Asperity is less often attempted due to its relative difficulty of access. Home to one of the greatest ridge climbs of the range (the Southeast Ridge, dropping straight to the Tiedemann Glacier below.)

1.3. Serra-Stiletto Peaks 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.381821, -125.198866

sumário

To the east of the trio of major peaks looking across the Tiedemann Glacier to Waddington are a set of further

descrição

The Serras and Stiletto Peak are granitic spires to the east of Mount Asperity to the north of the head of the Tiedemann Glacier. On their south flanks they boast massive granite ridges and faces, and while the northern routes are shorter they include everything from ice routes to more big alpine terrain.

acesso

For the south, the routes are all accessed via the Tiedemann Glacier. The north sides of Serra 4 and 5 are accessed via the Radiant Glacier, while 1, 2 and 3 as well as Stiletto Peak can be approached on the bench of the Upper Tellot Glacier.

onde ficar

Set up a base camp on one of the glaciers, or stay at the BCMC Plummer Hut near the base of Claw Peak.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ South Ridge of Serra 2 Rising from Sunny Knob straight to the summit of Serra 2, this is one of the classics of the range. Rising over and around several towers on the ridge, with difficulties to 5.9, this route is highly recommended. Parties usually take 1-3 days to climb and descend. FA: Paul Berntsen & Bruce Kay, 1991	5.9 IFAS:TD	Alpine 1500m

1.4. Claw Peak 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 51.373308, -125.154761

descrição

Directly above the BCMC's Plummer Hut, this peak is often climbed as a warmup before getting on some of the larger routes in the range.

onde ficar

The Plummer Hut rests directly below the West Ridge of Claw Peak, though you could also camp on any of the nearby glaciers.

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
5.6 AD		★★★	West Ridge	Alpine 130m		1.4. Claw Peak
5.7 TD			Bravo Glacier Route	Alpine 2100m		1.1. Mount Waddington
5.8 TD			Wiessner-House Route	Alpine 770m		1.1. Mount Waddington
5.9 ED			Skywalk	Alpine 600m, 22		1.2.1. Combatant Mountain
5.9 TD		★★★	South Ridge of Serra 2	Alpine 1500m		1.3. Serra-Stiletto Peaks
5.10c A2+ ED			Perseverance	Alpine 950m		1.2.1. Combatant Mountain
5.10+ ED			The British Pillar	Alpine 1500m		1.2.2. Mount Tiedemann
5.11 A3+ ED			Belligerance	Alpine 1200m, 47		1.2.1. Combatant Mountain
5.8 D-			Los Alamos Route	Alpine 150m		1.4. Claw Peak
5.10 D		★	The Trouble with Girls	Alpine 170m		1.4. Claw Peak
5.8 D+			Kshatrya	Alpine 740m		1.2.1. Combatant Mountain
?			Welsted-Richardson-Traverse	Alpine		1.1. Mount Waddington