Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.8 |
Temps de Cure
- with
PAB, Léa
3
5.8
Finished straight up through the bush to avoid soaking wet rock.
4
5.7
A few loose rocks remaining. Great pitch. Long but not much rope drag. | 210m | |||||
5.7 G |
★★ Voie de Rappel
- with
PAB, Léa
1
lead by
Léa
2
lead by
PAB
Finished in the dihedral and large flake leading to "Temps de cure" second anchor. | 150m | |||||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.4 G | ★ La petite ecole - with Léa, Charle-Antoine | 15m | |||||
5.5 | Unknown easy route - with Léa, Charle-Antoine | 15m | |||||
Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
- with
Léa
1
5.6
A little runout. I did a long pitch (70m) hoping to reach the tree anchor of P2. Didn't make it so I build a gear belay on an uncomfortable stance.
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
Tried going up the 5.7r but found it too committing while wet. Downclimbed and a few shenanigans later, found myself pulling a nice 5.7 roof crack move and then linking into the last pitch of "Soutien gorge" to avoid the (unfortunately) wet traverse and crack exit.
5
5.8
| 170m | |||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.12a G | ★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
New highpoint: hands in the top crack, placed the .75 but didn't clip. Found new beta for that section as well as the exit sequence.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Le diedral - with Lea, Chantalle | 180m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only climbed the first pitch while waiting for "wet dream" to clear up. Second half need a little cleanup. Great climb. The crux (5.7) protects very well.
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5.9 PG | ★★★ Wet Dreams - with Lea, Chantalle | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
P3 can actually be pretty well protected but the gear is tricky to get in.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.8 PG | ★★ Au bouleau mon homme - with Léa | 25m | |||||
Thin moves getting to the bolt. Protected as high as I could in the crack with a black totem.
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5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
Léa, Thomas, Sophie
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lots of people on the wall. We had two parties and decided to climb at the same time in parallel. Had a blast chatting while leading. It really goes pretty much anywhere on P2 and P3.
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45
2
5.7
60
3
5.6
35
| 140m | |||||
Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 G Hard | ★★★ Gaston Boston | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.6 G Hard |
★★★ La Granuleuse
1
2
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Passerelle | 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
P1: 5.7 (60-70 meters), P2: 5.7 (30 meters) P3 : 5.8 (50-60 meters).
There are a couple of tree belays with slings and cord on them but they can be hard to find. Start at the bottom of a very low angled slab which becomes slgihtly more vertical. We had 2 60s and simuled a for 10 meters but probably because my partner went off route. Second pitch ends with a walk through the bushes on the right of the cliff, just below a 5.11 arch. Third pitch is nice! The roof move on the third pitch is probably why this is 5.8. There are a couple of loose rocks on the third pitch so be mindful of this. |
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
5.10b PG | Eclipse | 28m | |||||
We ended up climbing it in two pitches, building a gear anchor after the slab, before the crux. I fell once on the crux, came back down to the anchor and made it. Interesting one to protect if you have a short reach.
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Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours - with Noah Boudreau-Richard | 140m | ★ Good | ||||
only 2nd pitch, 8+ variation
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5.8 Easy |
★★ Pinocchio P1
- with
Noah Boudreau-Richard
1
5.8
| 140m | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
- with
Kexin Huang
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
P1 of "Pinnochio" into the direct P2 of the "Directe de l'Ours".
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Mon 28th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 Hard | ★ Velerie Reverie | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.7 G | Terrasse a Lino | 15m | |||||
Belle fissure à doigts cassée avec quelques movements layback au début. Beaucoup de belles prises à l'extérieur de la craque aussi.
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5.4 G | ★ La petite ecole | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Good route to learn how to place pro. My boyfriend first mock-lead it and then lead it. Start was a tad tricky because eveything was wet.
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||||
5.6 | Les jumelles - with Léa | 70m | |||||
Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Wet Dreams - with Martin | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse - with Martin | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.7 Hard |
★ All Fine
- with
Jarek
1
lead by
Jarek
did the 10a variation
2
3
lead by
Kexin Huang
4
Did valerie reverie instead of going straight up
5
| 180m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||||
5.6 ~5.5 | Les jumelles - with Élie | 70m | |||||
P1 : 25-30 meters. Might be longer if you start at the base of the diagonal crack. Gear anchor
P2 : 30-35 meters |
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch - with Léa, Jonathan Chardrand, Marina Lancon | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10c G | ★★ King Can | 28m | |||||
5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.7 G ~5.8 | ★★ Derobade | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very fun climb, felt a bit hard for the grade, probably because of the chimney/offwidth style that I haven't climbed super often.
Length : between 30 and 35 meters. Gear : #.3 to #6 |
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 Easy | ★★ L'initiation | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A beautiful, easy climb. There are holds and protection everywhere. There are fixed anchors at the top of every pitch but can be hard to find if you're new to adventure routes. The route is much more fun if you're confortable with gear anchors as it offers more flexibility. Try not to overprotect if you plan on linking pitches as the drag can get pretty annoying.
Descent trail is a good 30 - 45 min. |
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Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.10a G | Jeu du gear | 25m, 1 | |||||
5.8 PG | ★★ Au bouleau mon homme | 25m | |||||
5.6 |
★★ Voie d'evitement P1
1
5.6
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Pinocchio | 140m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf! | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Astro | 85m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours | 140m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.10 PG | ★★★ Tache blanche | 140m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 G | ★★ Voie de Rappel | 150m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee | 160m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Voie d'evitement | 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10c G | ★★ King Can | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Gruyere | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 PG | ★★★ Wet Dreams | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours | 140m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The climb was still wet when we started so I opted for the 5.6 variant right of the OW. Nice moves. On the way down, we TRed the direct second pitch (5.8)
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee | 160m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed the first 70m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up.
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5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Linked P1+P2 into a 71m pitch
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5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee - with Chantalle | 160m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only climbed the first 60m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up
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5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse - with Chantalle | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes - with Léa | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Super humid day made this climb's crux interesting. We were also swarmed with little black flies. They chased us off the cliff after this climb.
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - with Laurie Hammond Desjardins | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very fun. Found the anchors for the first 6 pitches, but couldn't find them for the last four ( Which I doubled with a couple safe rumours). Pockets everywhere for easy hand holds. Took about 6h total because we did it on the safer side. No clue how to go down with rappel after the sixth pitch. All good with a single rack with 0.3-0.75 doubled. Was able to fit a #6 and a #5, but could have done without. Road under is noisy and anchors are far away so communication with second might be hard. Cell phone coverage on the mountain. Make sure you follow the road and not the trail to get to the start. Bring good shoes for the way down as it is about a dirty 40 deg slope. Search for the Cairns on the left to go down.
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.10b |
★★ Campanule
- with
Cedrick, Simon
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.5
| 200m | |||||
Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45m
2
5.7
60m
3
5.6
35m
| 140m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Swung leads with a new partner
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Astro | 85m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
LRS in 3 pitches with GG2 + duck backup and MT cache loop. A few practice falls at the start. Fixed a line and rappels on the left to look for new lines. Then went back up through 4th class terrain and rappelled the normal line.
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Tue 30th May 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | Fantaisie Spatiale - with Paul | 100m | |||||
Paul lead P1, then I linked with P2 of "Blues de la brosse à dents"
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5.8 |
★★ Astro
- with
Paul
1
5.8
30m
2
5.7
55m
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Swung leads with Paul who got all the good pitches (1 and 3).
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
- with
Léa
1
5.6
2
5.5
3
5.4
4
5.4
5
5.4
6
5.4
7
5.6
8
5.5
9
5.5
10
5.4
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Never gets old! swung leads with Léa who went direct through the headwall!
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.10- |
Das ist mir wurst
- with
Léa
1
5.10-
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.6
| 250m | |||||
Definitely more sustained than Hals-und. The first pitch is not the main attraction and definitely guards the entry to the climb. The rest of the climb offers great, varied sections with good belays. Retreat is possible with double ropes until the P4 bolted anchor. Has been mostly cleaned until halfway through P5. Small gear on P1, standard double rack with a single #4. Never placed the #3. I linked P3 and P4 but good rope drag management is required.
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
PN, Chieko H
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - with PN, Chieko H | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 18th May 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.7 |
Sinus
- with
Pier-Alexandre, Kexin Huang
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.7
4
5
5.7
6
5.7
| 200m | |||||
Route is severely under apreciated. Once the start is located, The rest of the routefinding is relatively easy (for the area). We climbed it in 5 fifth-class pitches and one 4th class (6 total). The first half of the climb is very clean. The second half could use a small amount of love but is still clean relative to local standards.
The climb was perfectly dry up to the ramp with two or three soaked moves. Our last pitch (exiting the ramp) was soaking wet (dry lesser quality options seemed available). The grade is consistent with local old school grades. |
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Astro - with Léa | 85m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Went to support Léa in leading the climb (she had previously sent it on pre-placed gear). On top of the usual wind, we were greeted with a light (but violent) snowstorm. 2-3 small falls and a few tears later, she made it and I cleaned!
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Wed 9th Nov 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Astro
2
5.7
55m
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Léa tried to lead it but adverse conditions brought her back to the ground at the crux. I lead it, then she pink-pointed it on my gear. I then followed it to clean. Only the first pitch.
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
1
5.6
210m
2
3
4
5
6
7
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
8
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
9
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
10
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun lap with Léa. She lead 2 pitches to the headwall. Then I lead one bloc to the top.
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Voie d'evitement - with Léa | 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
| 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.
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Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quick lap with PA. 57m08s car to car.
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Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Stimulateur Cardiaque P1
1
5.11c
35m
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
PA lead the opening to the roof (free) then aided to the fixed anchor. I followed on the fixed line with jumar, practicing aid techniques. We hauled some weight up, replaced the cordelette on the three fixed nuts with quick links and chains. Rapelled to the ground.
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Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Stimulateur Cardiaque (Stimulateur Cardiaque P1)
1
5.11c
30m
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Started climbing the face climb when it started pouring rain. Made my way to the roof (free) and continued aiding my way up to an abandoned #2. It was getting quite dark at this point so we retreated at this point.
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Astro
1
5.8
30
2
5.6
55
Layback in the first couple of meters if pretty rough (and scary!). Second pitch is easy but meh. Third pitch is an awesome hand crack also accessible from other climbs! | 85m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 ~5.9 | Fantaisie Spatiale | 100m | |||||
Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.12a 5.12a G | ★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second try. Linked the moves from the ground to the end of the chimney, found a new beta for the link between the chimney and the finger crack and then made my way up the finger crack with a few falls.
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Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 |
★★★ La Granuleuse
1
5.6
170m
2
3
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Secteur de Droite | |||||||
5.8 | Dora l'exploratrice | 250m | |||||
Climbed in 5 pitches. Lead all of them. Climbed what is more likely the start of '40 prinptemps' and bypassed a section of the dihedral by climbing clear rock on the right back into the dihedral for the last two pitches. Some loose rocks but not more than should be expected in such adventure terrain. The bushwack took longer than expected, never found the flagged route between 'Les Dalles' and 'Secteur de Droite'. Headlamps were usefull on the way back as well as orientation and terrain navigation skills. Do not under estimate.
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.12a 5.12a G | ★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First try. One slip two meters into the chinmey. Then linked the chimney but spent way too much energy. Fell repetitively trying to get out of the chimney into the finger crack. Didn't have much energy/time left so I aided the finger crack to the top glue ins. Very nice creative climbing with great protections. Placed two #4, first one was before getting into the chimney and could be substituted for a #2, second was at the end of the chimney and was pretty useful.
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5.9 5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Better than the description in rakkup gives it. Placed a #5 because I had it but it's not necessary. Nuts #3/#4 were very useful to protect the crux
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Tue 2nd Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt
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5.7 5.7 G | ★★ Derobade | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice climb with varied styles yet not hard. Start as an OW/chimney style in the diheedral into a nice OW section to finish on a finger crack. #6 could be used if you dont trust old pitons. Alternatively, you can cross right around the pillar to avoid the last bit of the OW section. #5 tipped out. Otherwise, .3-#3 single rack was fine.
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Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.6 | L'Arete sud | 150m | |||||
Simul in one pitch to the top to cap off a day of 10h, 19 guidebook pitches.
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5.7 | ★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf! | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed in one 55m pitch.
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5.7 5.8 | ★★ Astro | 85m | |||||
Simul in one pitch. Very nice climbing. The starting dihedral and finish crack are the best feature of this climb.
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5.9 | Aero | 20m | |||||
Would benefit from a little brushing but climbing still feel mostly solid. Bring small stoppers. Can also place a few cams under 0.75.
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5.10a |
★★ Pinocchio
2
5.8
| 140m | |||||
Only climbed P1 and P2. Climbed the left variant start through the overhang. Quite fun but harder (5.10?) leads to the left anchor.
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5.7 5.8 | Fantaisie Spatiale | 100m | |||||
Climbed in one simul pitch. finishing in Astro's second finish crack. Felt much easier than 5.9
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5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours | 140m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Simul in one pitch through the 5.7 crack variant. Lots of drag at the end.
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5.8 | ★★ Le Blues de la brosse a dents | ||||||
Climbed the left and then the right variant. Both felt pretty much similar, the right variation being more fun.
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Fri 8th Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf! | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very cool movement! Constant at the grade and good ambiance. Diserves more traffic.
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Mon 4th Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours | 150m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good classic. Lots of wind.
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Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
| 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Retrieved the gear from the accident. Wonderful climbing conditions! Lead it all in 6 pitches taking the original finish (5.4) which is much nicer than the 5.8 variation.
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Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
1
5.8
20
2
5.5
30
| 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tried to get a quick run in to go and get the gear from the accident. We got up a soaking wet first pitch before the clounds came down on us. We weren't comfortable going further so we bailed on the said gear.
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Thu 12th May 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was with a group of 3 new to trad multis. They pushed their rope without assistance while I climbed next to them.
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Fri 1st Oct 2021 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another initiation lap with a recruit! Cold light drizzle all day and even some snow! We made it though.
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Mon 13th Sep 2021 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.9
After backing off my partner went for it and took 3 mega whips. Ended up going around the crux (5.5), the move wasn't too sketchy if I remember correctly. | 110m | |||||
Thu 2nd Sep 2021 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation | 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 22nd Aug 2021 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse | 170m, 1 |