Ajuda

Levý břeh

  • Contexto da graduação: SX
  • Fotos: 15
  • Ascensões: 1,399
  • Aka: Left Riverside
  • Aka: Left bank
  • Aka: Linkes Ufer

Sazonalidade

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Sumário

Walls of left side of Elbe river canyon, including Dolni Zleb (Niedergrund).

Descrição

Route names were imported in German for most cliffs in Left bank. Adding the czech names is highly appreciated! Data available here.

Questões de acesso

As of May 2022, according to the Ranger, parking is NOT allowed along the narrow left-bank street. There are only a few places at the ferry in Dolní Žleb. Don't drive to the center of Dolní Žleb (behind railroad) and don't block the road. Arrival via ferry is preferred as the Left-bank street to Děčín is very narrow. Local train operates frequently to Děčín and Bad Schandau with plenty of free parking places in both cities' train stations.

Acesso

Get the local climbing guidebook from U Kosti or HUDY Hřensko.

Onde ficar

U Kosti! That's the center of everything in Left bank.

Ética herdado de Labské údolí

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No toproping if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).

  5. First ascents only after approval of the area administrator Labske udoli first ascent rules and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz for right side, spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz for left side.

  6. Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".

História

Gráfico cronológico das vias

#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.

#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used.

#grade: scale is tougher than the one in Saxony Switzerland, approximately by one point.

Climbing started in 1904 when Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by german climbers and after WWII by czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to high performance direction. Trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but its no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí number one sport location in the Czech republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!

Etiquetas

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Gerald Krug & Jörg Andreas

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9783981951516

This is a selective guidebook describing the rock climbing in the Labske Udoli region (or Labak in short), located in the northern part of the Czech Republic near the town of Děčín, covering over 2,200 trad and sport routes.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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Fri 28 Apr
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