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Milenci Todos Escalada trad 8 vias no penhasco

  • Contexto da graduação: SX
  • Aka: Liebespaar
8
SX
IIIIIIVVIVIIb

Questões de acesso herdado de Levý břeh

As of May 2022, according to the Ranger, parking is NOT allowed along the narrow left-bank street. There are only a few places at the ferry in Dolní Žleb. Don't drive to the center of Dolní Žleb (behind railroad) and don't block the road. Arrival via ferry is preferred as the Left-bank street to Děčín is very narrow. Local train operates frequently to Děčín and Bad Schandau with plenty of free parking places in both cities' train stations.

Ética herdado de Labské údolí

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No toproping if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).

  5. First ascents only after approval of the area administrator Labske udoli first ascent rules and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz for right side, spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz for left side.

  6. Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".

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Vias

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Grade Via
1
VIIa Nevěra / Untreue Mixed trad 2

Od nástupu cesty "Slepá láska" šikmo vlevo přes K a okno na římsu (2.K) a vpravo hranou na vrchol.

Set: Vladimír Pešek & Tomáš Švihnos, 1991

2
VIIa Slepá láska / Blinde Liebe Mixed trad 1

Vlevo v Z stěně přes převísek a stěnou ke K. Vlevo na balkónek a po hraně na vrchol.

Set: Pavel Černý, P.Laštovička jun., M.Hošna, P.Bednář & J.Souček, 1985

3
II Komínová cesta / Kaminweg Trad

Komínem od Z na vrchol.

Set: Ivan Studničný, 1957

4
V Západní cesta / Westweg Trad

V Z stěně J věže do spáry a tou na vrchol.

Set: Heinz Weigel & S.Balíček, 1952

5
VIIa Jihozápadní cesta / Südwestkante Trad

Vlevo v náhorní stěně překrok z balvanu na JZ hranu a tou na vrchol.

Set: Harald Grohmann & D.Sečkářová, 1964

6
VIIb Poblouznění / Verirrung Mixed trad 2

Od nástupu "Jihozapadní hrany" stěnou šikmo doprava ke kruhu. Vzhůru a doleva ke 2 kruhu a přímo na vrchol.

Set: Jaroslav Cach & J.Bicanová, 2006

7
VI Východní hrana / Ostkante Trad

Ze sedla V hranou.

Set: Erich Wrbík & K.Krombholz, 1958

8
III Stará cesta / Alter Weg Trad

Komínem v SV stěně na balkón, pilířem a opět komínem na vrchol.

Set: Heinz Weigel & S.Balíček, 1952

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Labske Udoli Rock Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Gerald Krug & Jörg Andreas

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9783981951516

This is a selective guidebook describing the rock climbing in the Labske Udoli region (or Labak in short), located in the northern part of the Czech Republic near the town of Děčín, covering over 2,200 trad and sport routes.

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