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Treusteiner Wand

  • Contexto da graduação: UIAA
  • Ascensões: 65
15
UIAA

Sazonalidade

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Sumário

Impressive free standing pillar with great routes in the mid range.

Descrição

It's 25m high and up above the somewhat noisy road, you can hear the chooks from the mill opposite the road while hanging on the tiny crimps. (They only stop when you get falcons circling above.)

Questões de acesso herdado de Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Acesso

Drive from Behringersmühle towards Waischenfeld. After Doos you will find a small hamlet called Rabeneck (below the castle), park here. Walk back along the road for 150m and up a steep footpath towards the "Bayreuther Riss", but instead of going left below the overhanging block, keep going up and right along the fixed ropes to the crag. GPS: 11.32392, 49.82201

Map of approach: https://ig-klettern.org/2018/05/achtung-aenderung-des-zustiegs-zur-treusteiner-wand/

Ética herdado de Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

This needs a bit more cleaning, it's partly moss and partly choss …

FFA: Matthias Stöcker, 2008

FFA: Martin Treiber

FFA: Martin Treiber

Work your way up the start of Durchriss (it's hard enough) and traverse left into Schmetterlingseffekt after the 2nd bolt.

FFA: Martin Treiber, 1996

The best line at the crag and a fantastic undertaking; get over the boulder after the first bolt, then layback and wriggle your way up the face to the ledge. If you manage to get here onsight then you might be fine with the rest, or you spend the remaining juice trying to find the good one amongst the many possible holds.

FFA: Martin Treiber, 1996

FFA: Martin Treiber

FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2018

unusual. starts in the pod

FFA: Teffi Büchting, 2018

FFA: Christian Zellner, 2007

FA: Stefan Löw

FFA: Stefan Löw

FFA: Heiko Queitsch & Michael Schenzel, 2007

FFA: Martin Treiber

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Data: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Data: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Data: 2021

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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Tue 23 May
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