A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Christoph Rauch Stefan Löw Fabian Michel Johannes Kuschke ToxicD Klara R Martin Skalli Peter Betz Thomas Hocke Mori
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Treusteiner Wand 15 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Treusteiner Wand 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 49.821889, 11.323847
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
sumário
Impressive free standing pillar with great routes in the mid range.
descrição
It's 25m high and up above the somewhat noisy road, you can hear the chooks from the mill opposite the road while hanging on the tiny crimps. (They only stop when you get falcons circling above.)
questões de acesso
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
acesso
Drive from Behringersmühle towards Waischenfeld. After Doos you will find a small hamlet called Rabeneck (below the castle), park here. Walk back along the road for 150m and up a steep footpath towards the "Bayreuther Riss", but instead of going left below the overhanging block, keep going up and right along the fixed ropes to the crag. GPS: 11.32392, 49.82201
Map of approach: https://ig-klettern.org/2018/05/achtung-aenderung-des-zustiegs-zur-treusteiner-wand/
ética
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Labium Majus Sinister
This needs a bit more cleaning, it's partly moss and partly choss … FFA: Matthias Stöcker, 2008 | 7+ | 12m, 4 | |||
2 | Proj1 | 12m | ||||
3 |
★★ Back to the Beginning
FFA: Martin Treiber | 7+ | 22m | |||
4 | ★★ Treusteiner Weg | 7- | 22m | |||
5 |
★★ Schmetterlingseffekt
FFA: Martin Treiber | 9+ | 25m | |||
6 |
★★ Schmetterlingsvariante
Work your way up the start of Durchriss (it's hard enough) and traverse left into Schmetterlingseffekt after the 2nd bolt. FFA: Martin Treiber, 1996 | 9- | 25m, 7 | |||
7 |
★★ Durchriss
The best line at the crag and a fantastic undertaking; get over the boulder after the first bolt, then layback and wriggle your way up the face to the ledge. If you manage to get here onsight then you might be fine with the rest, or you spend the remaining juice trying to find the good one amongst the many possible holds. FFA: Martin Treiber, 1996 | 8+ | 25m | |||
8 |
Powerschleicher
FFA: Martin Treiber | 9 | 15m | |||
9 |
Direkte Konsequenz
FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2018 | 9- | ||||
10 |
★ Grenzenlose Neugier
unusual. starts in the pod FFA: Teffi Büchting, 2018 | 7- | 15m | |||
11 |
★ Cathrin Stingl Gedenkweg
FFA: Christian Zellner, 2007 | 8 | 16m | |||
12 | ★ ?? | 8- | 15m | |||
13 |
★★ Fränkische Sulz'n
FA: Stefan Löw FFA: Stefan Löw | 8 | 15m | |||
14 |
My Course
FFA: Heiko Queitsch & Michael Schenzel, 2007 | 9+ | 16m | |||
15 |
★★ Chaosprinzip
FFA: Martin Treiber | 9- | 16m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7- | ★ | Grenzenlose Neugier | 15m | ||
★★ | Treusteiner Weg | 22m | |||
7+ | ★★ | Back to the Beginning | 22m | ||
★ | Labium Majus Sinister | 12m, 4 | |||
8- | ★ | ?? | 15m | ||
8 | ★ | Cathrin Stingl Gedenkweg | 16m | ||
★★ | Fränkische Sulz'n | 15m | |||
8+ | ★★ | Durchriss | 25m | ||
9- | ★★ | Chaosprinzip | 16m | ||
Direkte Konsequenz | |||||
★★ | Schmetterlingsvariante | 25m, 7 | |||
9 | Powerschleicher | 15m | |||
9+ | My Course | 16m | |||
★★ | Schmetterlingseffekt | 25m | |||
? | Proj1 | 12m |