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Treusteiner Wand Guide

  • Contexto da graduação: UIAA
  • Ascensões: 65

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Stefan Löw ToxicD Klara R Martin Skalli Peter Betz Thomas Hocke Mori

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Treusteiner Wand 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Sazonalidade

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.821889, 11.323847

sumário

Impressive free standing pillar with great routes in the mid range.

descrição

It's 25m high and up above the somewhat noisy road, you can hear the chooks from the mill opposite the road while hanging on the tiny crimps. (They only stop when you get falcons circling above.)

questões de acesso

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

herdado de Frankenjura Nord

acesso

Drive from Behringersmühle towards Waischenfeld. After Doos you will find a small hamlet called Rabeneck (below the castle), park here. Walk back along the road for 150m and up a steep footpath towards the "Bayreuther Riss", but instead of going left below the overhanging block, keep going up and right along the fixed ropes to the crag. GPS: 11.32392, 49.82201

Map of approach: https://ig-klettern.org/2018/05/achtung-aenderung-des-zustiegs-zur-treusteiner-wand/

ética

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.
herdado de Frankenjura Nord
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Labium Majus Sinister

This needs a bit more cleaning, it's partly moss and partly choss …

FFA: Matthias Stöcker, 2008

7+ Sport 12m, 4
2 Proj1 SportProjeto 12m
3 Back to the Beginning

FFA: Martin Treiber

7+ Sport 22m
4 Treusteiner Weg 7- Sport 22m
5 Schmetterlingseffekt

FFA: Martin Treiber

9+ Sport 25m
6 Schmetterlingsvariante

Work your way up the start of Durchriss (it's hard enough) and traverse left into Schmetterlingseffekt after the 2nd bolt.

FFA: Martin Treiber, 1996

9- Sport 25m, 7
7 Durchriss

The best line at the crag and a fantastic undertaking; get over the boulder after the first bolt, then layback and wriggle your way up the face to the ledge. If you manage to get here onsight then you might be fine with the rest, or you spend the remaining juice trying to find the good one amongst the many possible holds.

FFA: Martin Treiber, 1996

8+ Sport 25m
8 Powerschleicher

FFA: Martin Treiber

9 Sport 15m
9 Direkte Konsequenz

FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2018

9- Sport
10 Grenzenlose Neugier

unusual. starts in the pod

FFA: Teffi Büchting, 2018

7- Sport 15m
11 Cathrin Stingl Gedenkweg

FFA: Christian Zellner, 2007

8 Sport 16m
12 ?? 8- Sport 15m
13 Fränkische Sulz'n

FA: Stefan Löw

FFA: Stefan Löw

8 Sport 15m
14 My Course

FFA: Heiko Queitsch & Michael Schenzel, 2007

9+ Sport 16m
15 Chaosprinzip

FFA: Martin Treiber

9- Sport 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
7- Grenzenlose Neugier Sport 15m
Treusteiner Weg Sport 22m
7+ Back to the Beginning Sport 22m
Labium Majus Sinister Sport 12m, 4
8- ?? Sport 15m
8 Cathrin Stingl Gedenkweg Sport 16m
Fränkische Sulz'n Sport 15m
8+ Durchriss Sport 25m
9- Chaosprinzip Sport 16m
Direkte Konsequenz Sport
Schmetterlingsvariante Sport 25m, 7
9 Powerschleicher Sport 15m
9+ My Course Sport 16m
Schmetterlingseffekt Sport 25m
? Proj1 SportProjeto 12m
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