Ajuda

Buzz Rock

  • Contexto da graduação: US
  • Ascensões: 65

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Sumário

April-May: Sun starts hitting the wall at 9:30am and it bakes it until 3:30 or so, the it gets shade again.

Descrição

Buzz Rock is the small, dome-shaped outcrop located north of El Toro.

Questões de acesso herdado de El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Onde ficar

Homero's, La posada, La pagoda,etc. are all really close to this crag.

Ética herdado de Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Vias

Adicionar via(s) Adicionar croqui Reordenar Edição em massa Converter grau
Grade Via

Far left route on the wall. Climbs up easy slab to a hard finish clipping the anchors.

FA: Andy Baldassar

Just 10ft. right of Gracie's Bosch. Six bolts per pitch. Can be climbed as one pitch then rapped twice.

FA: Jeff Jackson & Steve Peterson

Jug haul.

FA: Alvino Pon

1 5.9
2 5.8
  1. 6 bolts. Mostly a jug-haul.

  2. 4 bolts, couple natural threads available to protect some easy scrambling after the steeper start to the pitch. A bit vegetated.

FA: Alvino Pon

Climbs through the alcove midway up the route on the white rock.

FA: Alvino Pon & Kirk Holladay

5ft. to the left of Green Flower Street.

FA: Alvino Pon & Kirk Holladay

First route you come to when you hike up to the wall. Far right side.

FA: Alvino Pon

Alternate first pitch to "Five pitch harmony". Was cleaned to facilitate the rappeling.

FA: Bob Cheeseman, 18 Nov 2023

Ruta nueva y divertida de 5 largos recientemente creada por Bob Cheeseman el día 16 de marzo del 2023

Esta ruta es muy buena y recomendable para los escaladores que quieren experimentar y probar el modo de multipitch. La dificultad progresiva es maravillosa y te recompensan con una gran vista en la cumbre.

Generosamente atornillada (protegida), libre de rocas y vegetación sobre la linea.

Climbing

Great climbing on confidence-inspiring, thoroughly cleaned rock. Bolted with beginners in mind, many people use this climb to get their multipitch systems dialed. It is not unusual to see multiple parties (I've seen up to 5...) moving relatively slowly up/down this climb. As of 2024, Bob added a second set of anchors to facilitate the inevitable party crossing. Use the bolts WITHOUT rap rings while ascending if there is a party above you. The top of buzz rock is very exposed to wind, bring an extra layer.

Descent

Rappel the route. On the last rappel (P1), decent straight down "revange of the whipped cream".

Other

Current speed record stands at 36.57 minutes and is held by Greg Hughes and Erik Kloeker (JAN 26 2024). It was claimed as "Buzz Rock" speed record, so I would assume "Sphincter Squeeze" is also fair game.

Rules as stated by the original party: Time starts and ends with both climbers touching the El Cubil kitchen door. Clip at least one bolt per pitch. Knots in the end of the rope for EVERY rappel. No stashed gear.

P1- 5.6 10 plaquetas P2- 5.5 11 plaquetas P3- 5.7 12 plaquetas P4- 5.8 12 plaquetas P5- 5.9 7 plaquetas

UBICACION: ULTIMA RUTA DE LA DERECHA DEL BUZZ ROCK, LA LINEA SE VE CLARAMANTE.

FA: Bob Cheeseman, 16 Mar 2023

NA: Erik Kloeker & Greg Hughes, 26 Jan

New route as of 02/12/2024.

5 pitches (400 ft) that start at the base on the right side of the Buzz Rock wall. Another great release for climbers starting out in multipitch mode.

Bolted for newer climbers looking to build confidence. There is a permadraw 30 ft. down from the anchors on pitch two to allow the rapeller to stay on the route and out of the cactus.

Pitch 1- 5.7 10 bolts

Pitch 2- 5.7 8 bolts

Pitch 3- 5.8 11 bolts

Pitch 4- 5.8 8 bolts

Pitch 5- 5.9 9 bolts

There are 4 permadraws under the roof section on pitch 5 in case the second cannot clean while climbing as the rapel line is significantly offset to the right. look for an additional set of anchors at the top of pitch 4 which will make the rapel from the top easier.

Special thanks to Greg Hughes and Robert Mencin for thier assistance setting up ropes and cleaning.

* Be careful of loose rock *

FA: Bob Cheeseman, 12 Feb

Informação importante

Esta área não possui informações de aproximação. Você poderia descrevê-la?

Se você pode ajudar a fornecer informações de qualidade para a comunidade de escalada, clique no botão 'edite esta área' próximo ao topo da página.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Data: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

Compartilhar isto

Sun 21 May
Veja o que está acontecendo em Buzz Rock.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文