A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Noah Boudreau-Richard
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Buzz Rock 10 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Buzz Rock 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 25.955772, -100.481833
sumário
April-May: Sun starts hitting the wall at 9:30am and it bakes it until 3:30 or so, the it gets shade again.
descrição
Buzz Rock is the small, dome-shaped outcrop located north of El Toro.
questões de acesso
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.
onde ficar
Homero's, La posada, La pagoda,etc. are all really close to this crag.
ética
Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Gracie's Bosch
Far left route on the wall. Climbs up easy slab to a hard finish clipping the anchors. FA: Andy Baldassar | 5.9 | 21m, 10 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Zooze
Just 10ft. right of Gracie's Bosch. Six bolts per pitch. Can be climbed as one pitch then rapped twice. FA: Jeff Jackson & Steve Peterson | 5.9 | 46m, 2, 12 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ The Fez
Jug haul. FA: Alvino Pon | 5.10 | 70m, 3, 6 | |||||
   |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 4 |
★ Dig Hay Zoose
FA: Alvino Pon | 5.9 | 50m, 2, 6 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Graphite and Glitter
Climbs through the alcove midway up the route on the white rock. FA: Alvino Pon & Kirk Holladay | 5.8 | 21m, 6 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Babylon Sister
5ft. to the left of Green Flower Street. FA: Alvino Pon & Kirk Holladay | 5.9 | 24m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
Green Flower Street
First route you come to when you hike up to the wall. Far right side. FA: Alvino Pon | 5.7 | 20m, 5 | |||||
| 8 |
Revenge of the whipped cream
Alternate first pitch to "Five pitch harmony". Was cleaned to facilitate the rappeling. FA: Bob Cheeseman, 18 Nov 2023 | 5.7 | ||||||
| 9 |
★★ Five Pitch Harmony
Ruta nueva y divertida de 5 largos recientemente creada por Bob Cheeseman el día 16 de marzo del 2023 Esta ruta es muy buena y recomendable para los escaladores que quieren experimentar y probar el modo de multipitch. La dificultad progresiva es maravillosa y te recompensan con una gran vista en la cumbre. Generosamente atornillada (protegida), libre de rocas y vegetación sobre la linea. Climbing Great climbing on confidence-inspiring, thoroughly cleaned rock. Bolted with beginners in mind, many people use this climb to get their multipitch systems dialed. It is not unusual to see multiple parties (I've seen up to 5...) moving relatively slowly up/down this climb. As of 2024, Bob added a second set of anchors to facilitate the inevitable party crossing. Use the bolts WITHOUT rap rings while ascending if there is a party above you. The top of buzz rock is very exposed to wind, bring an extra layer. Descent Rappel the route. On the last rappel (P1), decent straight down "revange of the whipped cream". Other Current speed record stands at 36.57 minutes and is held by Greg Hughes and Erik Kloeker (JAN 26 2024). It was claimed as "Buzz Rock" speed record, so I would assume "Sphincter Squeeze" is also fair game. Rules as stated by the original party: Time starts and ends with both climbers touching the El Cubil kitchen door. Clip at least one bolt per pitch. Knots in the end of the rope for EVERY rappel. No stashed gear. P1- 5.6 10 plaquetas P2- 5.5 11 plaquetas P3- 5.7 12 plaquetas P4- 5.8 12 plaquetas P5- 5.9 7 plaquetas UBICACION: ULTIMA RUTA DE LA DERECHA DEL BUZZ ROCK, LA LINEA SE VE CLARAMANTE. FA: Bob Cheeseman, 16 Mar 2023 NA: Erik Kloeker & Greg Hughes, 26 Jan | 5.9 | 140m, 5, 12 | |||||
| 10 |
★★★ Sphincter Squeeze
New route as of 02/12/2024. 5 pitches (400 ft) that start at the base on the right side of the Buzz Rock wall. Another great release for climbers starting out in multipitch mode. Bolted for newer climbers looking to build confidence. There is a permadraw 30 ft. down from the anchors on pitch two to allow the rapeller to stay on the route and out of the cactus. Pitch 1- 5.7 10 bolts Pitch 2- 5.7 8 bolts Pitch 3- 5.8 11 bolts Pitch 4- 5.8 8 bolts Pitch 5- 5.9 9 bolts There are 4 permadraws under the roof section on pitch 5 in case the second cannot clean while climbing as the rapel line is significantly offset to the right. look for an additional set of anchors at the top of pitch 4 which will make the rapel from the top easier. Special thanks to Greg Hughes and Robert Mencin for thier assistance setting up ropes and cleaning. * Be careful of loose rock * FA: Bob Cheeseman, 12 Feb | 5.9 | 120m, 5 | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.7 | Green Flower Street | 20m, 5 | |||
| Revenge of the whipped cream | |||||
| 5.8 | ★ | Graphite and Glitter | 21m, 6 | ||
| 5.9 | ★★ | Babylon Sister | 24m, 7 | ||
| ★ | Dig Hay Zoose | 50m, 2, 6 | |||
| ★★ | Five Pitch Harmony | 140m, 5, 12 | |||
| ★★ | Gracie's Bosch | 21m, 10 | |||
| ★★★ | Sphincter Squeeze | 120m, 5 | |||
| ★ | Zooze | 46m, 2, 12 | |||
| 5.10 | ★★ | The Fez | 70m, 3, 6 |