Vias como sport em Waikato

P1: Up the left face of the corner at the far left of the crag. To a small ledge.

P2: Head left around a small arete, up through interesting climbing to a large ledge.

Can be climbed as one long pitch, but be sure to minimise rope drag. Abseil down the line of Bolt Clinic or JAFA Cake.

P1: As for Midnight Lichening.

P2: From the anchor, step right and climb up the groove. Exciting moves before easing off for the middle section. Overhang to finish with fun, powerful moves (or move right for an easier variation). Shares an anchor with P2 of Bolt Clinic.

P3: Trad with plenty of greenery.

The first two pitches can be climbed as one, but be careful of rope drag.

Decent: From top of P2, easiest to rap straight down the line of Bolt Clinic.

P1: Start as for JAFA Cake, then move left at the 3rd bolt, up through the overhang (crux). Consider extending the next few bolts.

P2: Shares an anchor with Midnight Summer Dream.

P1: Start in the corner and trend right up to a ledge

P2: Continues up to another ledge.

P1: Starts a few meters right of JAFA Cake. The first half wanders from right to left and back again, mostly on crimps with a few jugs and side pulls. It then eases off for the last few bolts to the anchor.

P2: Shares the last 3 bolts and anchor with JAFA Cake.

P1: Start on the Rata covered ledge, moving leftwards. Sustained climbing that weaves left and right. Anchor is just to the left of a ledge (where the anchor of Power of Persuasion is located).

P2: Up left through a groove, then heads to the right, crossing the line of Power of Persuasion (be careful to stay on the correct line) then up through a corner to the right of the small roof system. The anchor is just below the top of the crag.

You can continue up and to the left to the anchor of Power of Persuasion and admire the fantastic 360° view from the top of the crag.

P1: Starts up and to the left across the small cave. Up the face and to the belay ledge of Climba Sutra, then left up the arete.

P2: Crosses the line of Demons of Bosh then up through the roof. Some big moves then easy climbing to the top of the crag. Anchor is on top of the rock, with great views.

Probably the best route at the crag. Shares the start and first bolt with A Roof Too Far, then climbs diagonally up to the left. A few balancey moves at the top of the face get you to a rest before you take on the roof. A couple of big, fun moves gets you through the roof, a few more meters gets you to the anchor. Fantastic climbing.

Shares the start with Climba Sutra. Straight up the face to the left side of the roof. You can clip the crux bolt from good sidepulls/underclings, then tackle the crux, moving right onto the small yellow face, then up on large pockets. After a few meters, the climbing eases off. Keep going up and right to the anchor.

Straight up the face to a ledge. Use this route to gain access to the following three routes.

From the belay of Buckle, move left and though the roof on pockets. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

From the belay of Buckle traverse left then up through the overhanging face. Easier climbing to the anchor. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

Up the groove then left to the anchor of Buckle.

Alternative finish to Age Concern. Traverses up and right to finish at Au Revoir's anchor.

Up Age Concern to the belay of Buckle, then continue up to the right hand end of the roof. Up and over the lip on to the ledge.

Straight up the blunt arete. Move left near the top, then rightwards up the groove to the anchor.

P1: Up the face. Some holds hard to find. Keep moving to avoid the pump.

P1: Start on Première, then move right for the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Cross the ine of 100 Buck. Climb up a groove above the 4th bolt.

P2: There are three routes continuing from this anchor. Take the middle one, up a red groove.

P1: Starts right of Première. Crosses the line of Bring Back Buck. Crux at the top going straight up the overhanging face of the large horn feature.

P2: Up the face.

P1: Climb the obvious groove to the left of the red arete. Holds can be tough to find and there's a real crux with some quality bridging. First anchor is shared with Red Line.

P2: Head right to the first bolt (which is shared with Red Line), then follow the bolts up. Fun climbing.

P3: A truly alpine experience, high and airy. You could bring some larger hexes (~10/11) or rockcentrics (~9) to prevent larger falls on the spaced bolts at the top. Watch for loose rocks!

Decent: The climb tends to the right all the way up, so make sure you come back that way on descent or you end up hanging in mid air.

P1: Fun climbing up the red streak on good holds.

P2: Move right. Shares first bolt with P2 of Pass The Buck. Keep going right, then up the slightly overhanging face and up on to the ledge above to the anchor.

For some bonus fun, link it into P2 of Bucking Fumblies by continuing on from the anchor up and right up the ramp. Then can do P3 of Bucking Fumblies for a fantastic view.

P1: Up the face and trends right out to the arete. Up on to a ledge where you'll find an anchor.

P2: Head straight up from the anchor before trending right for a 17 variant. Or go right from the anchor, then up the white face for the 21 variant. Optional belay where the two variants meet, otherwise keep going up and then right to the next ledge.

P3: A bit runout and exposed in places, but fun climbing. Gets up nice and high for a fantastic view. Climbs up through a groove to a crazy thin oversized handle feature. Watch for loose rocks.

P1: Tough start, then easier climbing up through a groove. Gets more difficult again once you hit the headwall, then up to a big ledge.

Belay your partner up then move left and over a wall to another ledge.

P2: Wild. Up and to the left to a horn feature. Up a groove, then to the right

Climb the left had face, 5m left of Hikuai route. The 1st accent included a run in with a loose rock and a fainting episode 60m up!.

1. 45m (21) 14 Bolts. Bridge up the short off width crack section to the top rock prow below the overhang. Crux lay away move to get established on the left hand face then blast up step ground on large holds. Move right based an abseil belay and climb to the face to the right of the tree up through step ground to ledge and DB belay. A great pitch on great rock.

2. 25m (19)8 Bolts. Climb block arete t left of belay then move left into overhanging corner. Climb this on big holds then up low angel head wall to delux belay ledge. Decent, Back down the route 3 abseils.

3. (21) 10 Bolts. Climb the step face above the belay onto a low angle ramp. Climb this then move left on the "fin" arete, climb up arete to ledge then move back right and climb the face. Move back left at top to DBC belay. Descent, abseil back down route, or 1 abseil across onto the top of the 3rd pitch on the Hikaui route.

This route climbs the main steep face up the centre of Hihi Pinnacle. The first pitch starts up the steep face right of the prominent right facing corner.

1. 32m (20). 10 bolts. Start on the steep face a couple of metres right of the prominent right-facing corner. Pumpy climbing up through a series of bulges (crux) to a large hole. There are two bolts above and slightly to the left of the large hole. After clipping the second of these bolts traverse rightwards along a ramp. There is another bolt hidden. Then continue up and right to the belay. A sustained pitch, stiff for the grade.

2. 25m (20). Move up and right from the belay into a steep white groove. Clip a bolt at the top of this groove below a small roof, then traverse hard left with delicate moves. Continue traversing left with very exposed moves around an overhanging arete to reach a ramp and short corner with a crack. Move up this to the belay. Slightly easy for the grade, but exposed.

3. 30m (20). Climb straight up from the belay past 3 bolts. Try to stick to the white rock, which is more solid than the black rock to the left. At the third bolt traverse right up and into a scoop with an overhang above it. Climb this into a steep corner, with steep sustained and exposed stemming straight up until you gain a slab above with belay.

4. 30m (20). Climb easyish slabs and corners up and to the right of the belay (slightly runout between some bolts). Then climb straight up a steep corner then into an exposed overhang with awesome powerful moves on jugs. Pull over the top of the overhang to a belay on a small ledge just above it.

5. 20m (15). Easy but exposed moves up the arete and slab past a few bolts. Don't stop at the first anchor you come to, continue up a track through the trees to a belay at a rocky knob at the very top of the pinnacle. Probably more like grade 12 than 15.

1. 30m (20) 12 Bolts. Climb up the vertical wall tending left to a small overhang. Climb this using a few deep pockets to the left (crux) up to a ledge at 15m height. Extend bolts and traverse the ledge left around a blunt arete to head wall. Climb groove and face to a large ledge system and DBC belay.

2. 45m (19) 14 Bolts. Variable rock quality on this pitch and lots of rope drag so extend extend extend. Step 1m right of belay and climb corner, move onto right wall of corner and pull up into base of large chimney. The rock here is a mix of conglomerate and friable black rock, however the chimney can be easily climbed by bridging on large holds with closely spaced bolts. At the top of the chimney the rock quality improves, move out right onto the head wall and climb the head wall and slab. At the last bolt traverse left 5m to ledge and DBC Belay

3. 30m (20) 12 Bolts. A steep exposed pitch on good rock. Climb corner directly above belay, the line stays left of the large roof systems on steep rock with good holds. At the top overhang, bridge up the overhanging groove until you can clip the last bolt, traverse right 2m to DBC belay.

4. (18) 30m 10 Bolts. Move right of belay and climb headwall on rock nubbins . Top out on the very top of the pinnacle DBC belay.

Tricky access around back of Hihi Pinnacle. Put up as a Aid route to access the top of the pinnacle. The free climbed in 2020.

1. 10m (16). Climb the low angle groove that cuts through the sea of rata, up past 6 bolts to a large ledge system and DBC belay out left. The rock on the right side is solid , on the left side its no so.

2. 20m (22). Step back right onto the steep head wall and climb the grove to the roof. Move right across the groove on buckets until you’re on the face immediately below the roof/corner. Difficult move to gain corner Once in the corner clip the bolt then move left out of corner onto the head wall. Climb steep wall above (crux). Belay in small hollow on DBC belay, 8 bolts.

3. 25m (21). Muster up some courage then climb the exposed head wall up and to the left of the belay. Once over the lip continue up technical climbing to a small ledge and DBC belay. 10 bolts (approx.)

4. 5m (16). Scramble up arete past 2 bolts to large ledge and DBC belay.

Descend by abseiling down the route. If you have a 60m rope then abseil down to pitch 3 then pitch 2 belay and then from here to the ground.

Having climbed the Hikiuai or Hihi routes why not keep going by tyrolean-traversing across to the Kaweka pinnacle. The Hikuai to Kaweka climb is 9 pitches, probably some sort of record for the North Island and definitely the only one with a Tyrolean traverse in the middle.

1. 15m. Tyrolean Traverse. On the eastern side of the top bollard, abseil off the double ring bolt belay, 10m down to the start of the tyrolean. Clip into the belay and chain. Thread the Tryoloen then climber 1 traverses before reversing the rig and bringing the second climber across. Please read the instructions on Tyrolean below.

2. 30m (20) 13 Bolts. From the belay, climb the overhanging face tending left. Mantel onto the lower angle wall (crux) then climb the slabs on edges and knobs.

3. 30m (20) 10 Bolts. Up the knobby little headwall then traverse right into the corner. Climb the short headwall and traverse back left at the top and mantel onto slab. Climb the slab up to the ledge and DBC belay.

4. 25m (18) 8 Bolts. Climb straight up past 2 bolts then traverse left. Continue climbing and traversing left up the low angle head wall all the way to the top and DBC belay.

Descent is 4 abseil back down the route. The last abseil is 50m to the ground.

The smaller front pinnacle. From the base of Hihi scramble up the hill to a small platform at the base of the slab.

1. 40m (21) 14 Bolts. Scramble up slab to the left facing corer. Start in corner till 1st bolt then move onto wall. Climb steep face (21), at 5th bolt you can either go, right around bulge (19), or continue straight up (21). Continue past intermediate abseil station and climb shallow groove above on small nubbins and edges. A sustained pitch.

2. 20m (18) 6 Bolts. More about the destination than the climbing. From the belay to the DBC belay continue up and right through the garden to the top of the pinnacle to DBC Belay. Abseil Back down line or do Tahi Rua Tryolean

Tahi, Rua(21,Ty,18,21,16) 120m A Tyrolean traverse from the Tahi pinnacle across to the HiHi pinnacle.

1. 40m (21) 14 Bolts. Climb the first pitch of Tahi.

2. 15m (Tyrolean). From the first Belay ledge of Tahi. Move left along the chain to the Tyrolean-traverse pull cord. Set up the Tyrolean (see instructions below). This Tyrolean is on an incline so I strongly recommend taking a shunt or jumar to haul you up the last section.

3. 15m (18) 4 Bolts. (10m). Climb and traverse up the left ledge system to DBC belay and large grassy ledge. 4 30m (21) 12 Bolts. Climb up the right tending arete until you get to the large low angle ramp on the right of the arete.. Climb ramp and head wall past 6 bolts until you get to the roof. Traverse left around the roof and up to DBC belay.

4. 20m (18) 6 Bolts. (10m). Climb and traverse up the left ledge system till you get to the 4th pitch of Hihi, climb this to top of the pinnacle. Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson & Rachael Mayne. Sep/2022

Climb the steep groove past 2 bolts and then the arête starting from the jug on the left. Climb mostly on the right of the arête from the jug past the next few bolts to where the climbing eases back to big holds. Follow your nose through the overhanging section to the belay ledge. Avoid trying to sneak around the first tricky section by grovelling up the dirty groove on the right as it is also loose (significantly easier, possibly grade 19 if the arete is avoided by climbing the groove).

Climb the featured rock 2m left of the direct start to Mad Carew. Turn the overlap on the left and follow good holds on the slab to the rings.

Climb up the slab and into the right facing corner. Awaiting info to update the bolter and FA.

5m left of Shelob the route climbs up broken ground to the slab, up the slab and then follows the streak of light rock.

Start as for Shelob to the ledge then step right and climb the groove and directly through a steeper bulge. Finish at the Shelob belay or continue to the top, climbing the arete. This 2nd pitch was bolted after originally being led on very sketchy gear in the 90's.

The left most route on the wall. Some technical moves for the grade past the first few bolts followed by easier climbing to the sloping ledge.

2nd pitch to Ryobe or join both for a nice long pitch. Fantastic climbing up the steep face with regular rest possibilities.

Gain the start of the route by abseiling from the Shadowfax belay down the wall below or from Ryobe scramble diagonally down the bushy ledge. Climb the upward slanting weakness. Sustained. Ends at the belay for Shadowfax.

Scramble up as for shadowfax to where that climb traverses right. Clip the bolt and climb on small holds directly to the break above (crux). Continue on good holds and interesting rock to the belay ledge and bolts.

Originally climbed from the top of the first pitch of 'Shadowfax' but best done as a long pitch using what was known as 'The Twist' as a direct start. Joins the Shiny Goblins belay. A great route with a lot of climbing and a couple of technical cruxes.

Originally done as a first pitch to 'Rebels and Outcasts', climbers now always join both in a long pitch and the two together are known as 'Rebels and Outcasts'

Used to be called 'Red Wall Super Direct' until being freed of its aid point. Is the best start to 'Shiny Goblins'.

One of the North Islands best 22's. Do it as one pitch with 'That summer'(need a 70m rope). Nearing the top of the cliff carry on up the corner (medium cams/large wires) for the original finish or step left (bolt) and climb the arête for a fully sport route.

A great multi-pitch training climb. On the far left of the Shield.

Double bolt anchors Obvious bolted line

Heads up the red wall left of the arete of 'Prelude'.

Small holds up to the large pine tree protected by hangerless bolts.

unknown route origin, stainless bolts and hangers lead to chain anchor. rock quality is some of the worst you could climb on.

unknown origin, start on the face then veer right around the arete. stainless hangers and bolts lead to a chain anchor. some of the worst quality rock you could climb on.

Climb the groove to below the overhang. Move slightly left to surmount the crux overhang to bigger and bigger holds. Slabby finish with an exciting ending. Rock quality is not good as the rest of the crag but still a fun climb

The second pitch at the hanging belay in the middle of this wall. Climb to the right underneath the overhang to the crux above the second bolt and then cruise cruise to the top of the honeycomb head wall. Descent is best in two abseils

Climb the groove and keep on going through the widening crack and chimney to reach the steep headwall and chain. Long and airy with a good balance of moves. DBC Belay

Around the Left from the Bivvy cave, follow the thin path alongside the rock that will take you up to the belay ledge. Slightly awkward offwidth start leads to fantastic climbing. Looking through the offwidth you can see the bivvy cave and stipaccio.

The overhanging face leads to easier climbing after the bottom boulder. Anchors still need glued in, stay off till then.

A route with some contentious creation questions. Is considerably harder now that one of the key crimps by the start has broken and the bolted on starting foothold has been removed.

Just right of "Blue" inside the cave. Start up between the columns and then move onto the face for some nice juggy climbing.

Climb to the left of falcor up the slab and into the tallest part of the cave. still needs more cleaning and more bolts

An outrageous line that traverses from inside the cave through steep climbing and out at the far right lip of the overhang. Does anyone know who the original equipper was? Holds through the final section look manufactured. This one was re-bolted in 2020 but hasn't seen an FA yet as far as anyone knows

Start at the base of the slab left of the runnel, mantel onto the slab then attack the overhang. Good holds lead to a powerful finish.

Cleaning beta: start lowering and grab the last quickdraw, climb back up, and flick the rope over to right before cleaning the remaining gear.

The runnel next to falcor... Probably only dry for 3 months during the Summer but will be a classic!!!!

Start to the right of the runnel, a few tricky slab moves lead to a rooflet, pull through the roof then the climbing eases off the closer you get to the anchors.

Start in the middle of the column, climb to the roof on easy moves then punch through on small edges. Route stays slightly overhanging all the way to the top on good holds then goes over another bulge to meet the anchors.

Start at the right hand end of the column. Climb the first roof on good holds then punch through the overhanging bulge on small holds before getting a ledge. Climb the corner on slopey holds before veering left at the top for the anchors.

Start up the ramp (clip the first bolt of "Pneumothorax" then climb through the over hanging face, easy climbing before and after the crux. Shares anchors with "The Odyssey"

Left of No Fly Zone. Climb the face then into the corner via the flakes or transfer over to the adjacent boulder at the jug. Stem your way to the roof then power through and enjoy the top, this climb has everything!!!

Excellent climbing up the face following the positive edges heading diagonally right to an entertaining 19 Crimpy climb as it goes straight up again. From the anchors you can join the grade 16 for 10m of fun climbing (4 bolts) for a full height adventure. Note; if heading to the top the abseil is 38m to the ground, or rap to the top of no fly zone for a 25m rap.

Start up Coller De Hors then at the 3rd bolt head left through the overhang then head directly up past 4 more bolts to join the top of no fly zone.

A linkup taking in the crux of Coller De Hors before traversing to clip the last bolt and anchors of No Fly Zone. Great option if you only have a 60m rope.

Brilliant fun climbing, mainly a reasonable 19 until the overhang then a few bigger pulls through some jugs to some smaller holds with some great moves. An easy tick for the grade, or super hard if you get the moves wrong. The abseil is 38m, a 70m rope might get you down on stretch, or abseil left to the anchors on No Fly Zone

Start to the right of Coller de Hors. This climb is sustained but well protected. The crux involves pulling over the overhang and getting established on the steep wall above. Steep climb on good rock.

Starts right of Feariswheel, Climbs the arete and attacks the slight over hang, consistent climbing. Climb to the ledge below "Edging and Dilios" the anchors are on the face.

Cleaned and bolted, climb the face as per "another one rides the bus" then step into the corner, 5 more bolts then mantel out to the left and clip the chains above.

Climb the left line of bolts from the ledge on in-cut crimps and edges

From the ledge climb the right line of bolts on crimps, edges and a few jugs... Enjoy the view!!!!

An intimidating line that gets harder the higher you climb, with its crux headwall and bold finish. A bit of everything in terms of climbing, slabs, cracks, faces and a overhang. Rock a bit soft at the start.

Climb the arete to the right of "Climb This You Bastard" some pretty funky moves with 2 distinct cruxes. Still needs anchors.

The pronounced streak on the last buttress of this sector. This climb has two cruxes, one high and one low. The higher you get the steeper it is and the rests quickly disappear. The second bolt is tricky to clip due to the nature of the rock but good side pulls are there if you can find them

Start from the ledge and traverse right up to a ledge. old bolts have been removed/knocked in. Re bolted but some of the holds at the start look suspiciously formed 🤔

Down to the right of "Axis" is a direct version, still needs a start bolt and an ascent but looks like it will be far better climbing than the traverse.

Climb the right hand face from the ledge. Some suspect holds up there if you spot them, this is the original line, re bolted and some fantastic views. At the anchors if you want to get to the top tier, climb past and keep going... More anchors then a single bolt to top out the route... belay your buddy up from the bolts on the boulder over to the right.

The left line from the main ledge, keep to the right or left if you want a harder outing. as with "old school epics" you can climb past the anchors and mantel the top to get to the top tier.

Climb the corner then break out left through the over hang, beware of the calf pump and save some juice for the top!!!!

The line to the far left, climb the over hanging face. Needs bolts, has anchors (shares with corner line)

Climb the left overhanging face (after the overhang you can get onto the ledge for the other lines) or keep going up through a tricky crux.

Climb the right hand face from the chain. 30m of climbing with a few cruxes, step left at the top of the line to the anchors shared with "Shin-dig" Don't forget to enjoy the view!!!

The right hand line from the ledge, still needs work and a chain for the ledge.

The left hand line from the ledge, still needs work and a chain for the ledge.

Climb the face

Head up through vertical into steep climbing on a variety of jugs, pinches, crimps and pockets to 2/3 height then crimp your way to glory.

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

Just to the left of Johns Plaque, head up the left side of the bolts through overhanging jugs, once past the overhang veer right. *Anchors to be added.

Climb the line left of equanimity through 3 distinct horns. Climbing to the roof is around 22/23 then a bouldery finish through the final horn. This one is long and through steep sections so extend draws that are after the steep sections to eliminate rope drag or prepare for a bicep workout.