Vias como sport em Waikato

Climb the face on good crimps and side pulls, balance your way through the middle section and top out just under the roof. Still needs anchors added.

Climb the land before crime, at the roof head left to the alternative anchors through a bouldery move

Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from.

Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun"

Start left of the corner, traverse in from right to left, best to pre clip at least 1st. climb the face through a series of mantels then slight overhang before the anchors in the rooflet. For full value keep going after the anchors!!!

Climb the the corner (still needs Anchors)

Climb the scooped out corner then head through the bouldery moves in the overhang.

Climb the steepness on small holds through funky moves, keep to the overhanging arete heading left through the overhang to pull through the roof (crux). After the overhanging terrain, weave through the top section with some air between the bolts to a double ring bolt anchor.

Bridge out then onto the short face, odd climbing but fun.

Head up an overhanging boulder problem into crimps on the face then either take the right hand side of the slab up the slopey arete. *Still needs Anchors.

Short 10M face with 3 bolts, but not lots of holds

Has a second pitch which is a closed project.

Starts from end of first pitch of 'Wind Dancer'. Veers left at second roof.

Requires a 60m abseil.

Some really nice slab climbing. Amazing spot

Pitch Number:

1. 18, 50m

2. 18, 35m

3. 18, 15m. Is actually 'Top Pitch'

Description by pitches:

• Pitch 1 - Grade 22, 25m
• Pitch 2 - Grade 19, 30m
• Pitch 3 - Grade 19, 20m

A exciting 30m traverse. Crux is at the start and end of the route.

Fun climb up the arete. P1: 10 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: 8 bolts

4 pitch route, off the belay ledge right of Hailstone. P1 & P2 can be run togeather.

May have been renamed "Alphabetic Disorder"

Description by pitches:

• Pitch 1 - [10 Bolts] [25m] [Grade 20]
• Pitch 2 - [8 Bolts] [30m] [Grade 17]
• Pitch 3 - [12 Bolts] [40m] [Grade 20]
• Pitch 4 - [12 Bolts] [30m] [Grade 17]

Starts at a “half height” ledge system accessed via climbing the 1st 2 pitchs of 2-Stroke Tantrum, or by abseiling into them.

Abseil off the first belay point south of the summit (between two diving board shaped rocks), you head to the right (round the obvious ledge below). The start of the 1st completed pitch starts 60 metres down.

2. (19) Heads mostly straight up for around 30 metres before tending right to the belay point on the ledge 8 metres below the top [8 bolts].

3. (20) The top pitch is challenging with small holds and has an alternate finish using the bolt over the left (looking up) diving board - rated 22 if you feel like more of a challenge [4 bolts / 5 bolts].

Right-most bolted line of the main wall, under a huge white roof system. Technical climbing with a steep start. Easiest to clean by top-belaying a second. Bring a 70m rope or a tag line.

Open project - probably 30/31 in grade. The bolted route on the impressive overhanging arête.

Start up the slabs broken by 2 small overhangs (cruxes). Then up the short headwall to a chain belay on Lover's ledge. This was the first route at Tairua and was climbed ground up on the first reccie to the crag. It has since been bolted in order to create a friendly access route.

“Peace be upon you”. Cliff: I re-named this climb following the Christchurch Terrorist attack. It is probably the best climb I have helped put up and is in a very peaceful and beautiful part of NZ, a fitting tribute to all those Kiwis and visitors that lost their lives. As with all climbing at Tairua, this route is the combination of many climbers' efforts, thanks to you all, we are one, Kia Kaha.

1. (19) – Are We Tramping Yet?

2. (22) - Dirty Hairy Frenchman.

3. (20) Transfer to the belay in the middle of the “Living Room Ledge” located on the south side of the middle bollard. From here traverse right slinging one of the large bollards, then drop down and traverse right along a ledge system for about 15m past 4 bolts to a stance, optional belay (recommended for reducing rope drag). From here head straight up the groove then move back left and climb the bollard (wild). Once level with bushy ledge, traverse left back to a DBC belay. An absolutely stunning heart in your mouth pitch. 10 bolts.

4. (20). Hard moves off the ledge then straight up groove,sustained climbing before angle eases up past 5th bolt then continue up to low angled ramp and DBC belay. 8 bolts.

5. (19)– Climb the headwall following the right-trending groove and corner, trickier than it looks. At the 7th bolt move right, across the slab to the DBC belay of Daylight Dilemma. 8 bolts.

6. (18) 6th pitch of Daylight Dilemma.

7. (20) Top pitch of Daylight Dilemma.

Descent: Abseil back down the route. Clip the chain on the top bolt on the 5th pitch and abseil off the left-hand side of the 3rd pitch ledge. You will also need two ropes to abseil off the Living Room ledge. Alternatively abseil down the line of Daylight Dilemma.

2nd tier. Starts from the anchors at the top of Not here to F*** Spiders (far right side of Lover's Ledge). Rad moves out right lead to a stiff crux sequence into a cave. Top out on the enormous Living Room Ledge. 7 Bolts.

NOTE: Falling off the crux of this route can leave you hanging in space. Make sure you know how to ascend a rope!

Descent: Either rap back down route (difficult), or climb up onto the Alien Head and rap off the Space Ape anchor back to Lover's Ledge. Alternatively it is a 50m rap to the ground from the Living Room Ledge.

Straight up from the anchors at the top of Are We Tramping Yet? to an anchor in the middle of Space Ape.

Absolutely wild! Start at the same bolt as Coitus Interruptus but then trend right up the delicate slab before traversing right over ledges to the steeply overhung alien feature. Take a deep breath before launching up the inside of this outrageous feature. Clip the green thread before you mantle out. DBC belay.

Note: There is an anchor on the ledge in the middle of the route, this is the top of Boulderer's Day Off. You can stop here to split the route into 2 pitches.

The pitch starting from the alien head. Great climbing on perfect rock. Climb Space Ape or Dirty Hairy Frenchmen to access.

This is the Tairua classic!

Pitch 1 (19) – Are we Tramping

Pitch 2 (22) 20m Climb easy honeycombed rock to the 2nd bolt,then power through the crux which consists of a series of good underclings with long reaches to small slopey edges.

Pitch 3 (18) 20m Delightful stemming up the steep corner to the large chickenhead visible from below. Can be done as one long pitch or two short pitches at 22/18.

Pitch 4 (26)15m. Up thru scoop and then consistently hard moves to the anchor.

Pitch 5 (21) 30m . Nice moves on good rock to bushy ledge.

Pitch 6 (16) 30m Up slabby ground to rap station just below bushline.

Pitch 1 to 3 Greg Kolbe; Edwin Sheppard Nov 2017

Pitch 4 to 6 Edwin Sheppard, Max Nov 2020

Up the steep bolted line starting a few metres to the right of Jam. Staunch climbing with a sting in the tail.

Easier finish to Home Again. Traverse up and right before Home Again's final steep section to the first pitch's anchor of Kapowai Calling.

Starts on the block just left of Kapowai Calling, on the edge of the large gully that splits the face. Nice grade 17/18 moves up to the crux up the small crack at the top. Generously bolted to make for a comfortable lead. 11 bolts.

More fixed ropes lead up and left from 'Five Legged Goat'. 'El pollo loco' starts on a small ledge with two chains.

1. (45m) Clip the two sets of chains and climb the tree, then move right. Two more bolts will bring you to a DBC. Either belay here to reduce drag or continue traversing right before heading up. ~16 bolts if you opt to do it in one pitch.

2. Take an excursion to the right and back left after the 4th bolt. Then up into the chicken heads and a slab.

3. A steep section followed by slab.

Descent: A 60m rope will suffice. There is a rappel anchor at the right end of the P1 traverse. ~25 more meters from here brings you back to the access track.

Originally climbed through the roof (at grade 22), it's much easier to sneak around to the left, though still no soft touch.

A new route to welcome in the new year and the same old you. Wander around and try to stay out of Alcoholics Anonymous.

Starts with a touch route reading crux, easing up the higher you go. Using the tree to start is aid, but you do you.

Mostly grade 17 climbing with a midway mini crux and a bouldery crux start. If you've got a stick clip, pre-clipping the 2nd bolt is recommended.

Left through thin moves over rails to a ledge, then stay out of the crack at left.

Straight up to the ledge then crimps above.

Reachy and thuggy, solid at the grade, wanders around over bulges with more than one crux. Long or extendable draws advisable. Pull your rope standing a way out from the wall.

Follows the first two bolts of 'The Reach Around', then continues straight up into great features. Solid for the grade (following the theme of the area). Finishes on the higher anchor above D.B.A.P.C.Y.T. Great view.

On the far right side of the crag. Climb up to the first high bolt and continue upwards on good holds. Prepare for a sneaky crux before you finish.

The featured slab/arete with a fun layback finish. A great warm up.

A hard slab start (recommended pre-clipping 1st or 2nd bolt which can be accessed from the left), leads to a cruxy bulge with optional tree aid. Shares some terrain with Man Cub in order to save the big tree at the base and to keep clear of the trad line (The Jungle Book).

Fun slab arete climb. Similar to Rohan's Arete, but easier. Starts right of the arete, by the tree.

A bouldery start leads to an easy slab section up to the mini roof. Has fantastic crux moves on slopey scoops, edges and mini-jug rails. Shorter people, or those pushing their grade may want to climb Welcome to the Jungle first to pre-hang the quickdraws. Named after the baby Riroriro (Grey Warblers) that were seen nesting and taking their first flights.

A bouldery start leads to cruisy moves into a great middle section, with a good rest before the final crux finish. Black hangers.

A cool line with fun moves.

Open project. Let the crag vultures loose! The hard extension to Be Like You. Estimated grade 27/28.

Black hangers. The first line established at Jungle Wall. An instant classic. Follows the groove, right of the overhang.

After gaining the ledge, move carefully up and left on the obvious arête. Hard to read moves lead to a few hidden jugs with a surprisingly easy exit up the final slab headwall to finish.

A wild experience in a small space. Stay out of Robin's hand crack on the left for an honest ascent. A tricky ending with hard to solve clues. Pre-placing the quickdraws is recommended, with a med-long draw on the 3rd.

An adventurous line that snakes around wicked features, with multiple cruxes. Prepare to be hypnotised.

A fantastic line with multiple cruxes and thought-provoking sequences. Shares the first bolt with The Crow King, then heads up and right.

A great line with three unique cruxes in three different styles. Set with creative use of a crowbar due to the hidden hammer incident.

Great climbing with interesting features and some tricky sequences. Finishes on the starting dyno jugs of the extension 'Bagheera'.

"We're going to need a bigger star system". Continues up from the Baloo anchor. All beta so far involves an all points off dyno! A hard V2 (6A) crux guards the top. Feels hard for the grade until you send, then it's easy - c'est la vie (such is life).

Hope you like mantles.

A fun bouldery start then consistent grade 17 moves up to the 'tree house' ending.

Short but savage. A chill start up the layback finger crack leads to triple, consecutive cruxes (V2-V4-V3) / (6A/6B+/6A+). Some serious skills are needed to slay the Congo King.

Closed project, please stay off. The left side of the face/slab arete. Balancey and beautiful.

Undercut start through blocks onto arete

Head up the slab into the slight dihedral corner, escaping right to a flat crimp. Delicately work your way up technical moves upwards to the large breaks and the anchor.

On the arete right of flake 7

Up the slabbly start to the overlap, then a crux and mantle that make this a hard onsight. It's far from over after that...

Directly up the striking arête in front of where the path from the camp meets the base of the wall. After the start, most of the climbing is to the right of the bolts, with many no-hands rests.

The hard thin crack and face to the right of Rohan’s Arete, sharing its anchor.

Climbs the slightly overhanging face, left of Biggie Smalls. Consistant and tecky moves with a cool crux and mantle. Great photo spot out right.

coming soon - a hard right hand exit (sans mantle) *closed project

Scramble up right to pre clip the 1st bolt if you don't have a stick clip. Starts in the corner, then head up the slab (avoiding the crack), moving right at the tree, then tackle the improbable-looking upper slab. Great photo spot out right on a bushy ledge above 'The Zoolander Center'.

Pitch 1: (19) Up the face and over boulders to a crux finger crack. Use the maillon of the anchor on the tree.

Pitch 2: (16) Traverse to the right to the belay station after climbing up the face. DBB.

Pitch 3: (19) Start in the bottomless chimney, traverse up and right and exit through the overhang, then leftward on a slab and face. DBB.

Pitch 4: (19) Straight up the face to the very top. 15 bolts. DBB.

Starts at the top of pitch one of Ventura Highway.

Pitch 1: (21) Wandering route, but generally trends left up the face. DBB.

Pitch 2: (22) Initially head out right and weave back left between the two shrubs. Continue straight up the exposed headwall to the anchor. DBB.

Trend rightwards at first until you get into a small groove. Continue upwards cutting left underneath the big block. Follow just right of the small arete to the belay.

Take a 70m rope and plenty of extendable draws. Pitch 2 is still a work in progress.

Climb the face just right of Pain Au Chocolat.

Up the left hand side of the arete, transitioning onto a slab to the top.

Up the blunt arete of the right of the boulder.

Go up the main just left of the main slab of Secret Garden