Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lake Taupō Fechado Whanganui Bay Whekenui | |||||
23 | ★★★ Zen
Climb the first pitch of Fawlty Towers or abseil from above. Great climbing in an exposed position. Features on the cover of Rock Deluxe North. FA: Kester Brown, 1999 | 22m, 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Bizarrete
Advance to the high first bolt before you're greeted with technical climbing with a crux to match. While the first bolt is high, the terrain before it is well below the grade and generously pocketed | 25m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ Small Pocks
FA: R. cooper | 9m | |||
19 | ★ More pocks
| 9m, 4 | |||
23 | Old Mr Stoney And His Two Boney Fingers
Up the face directly at the top of Wedgewood. Belay on the tree. FA: M. Watson, 1993 | 8m, 3 | |||
23 | Funkentelecky
CLimbs the arete left of Ego Trip. Go past a ledge, step left under the roof and finish past a bolt. FA: C. Creese, 1981 | 17m | |||
25 | Funkenstein
Direct start to Funkentelecky FA: Kristen Foley | 15m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Jim Takes A Tumble
Left of Moss Corner FA: Brian Fish, 1980 | 10m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Jim Takes a Booma Gutsa
The looming wall to the right of Moss Corner FA: Dave Fearnley, 1981 | 16m, 4 | |||
22 | Dr Funkenclimb
Climb overhanging face then finish up "orm" to the right on trad gear or traverse left to pick up the last bolt of JTABG FA: Neil Parker, 1981 | 15m, 3 | |||
22 | The Ludovico Technique
Overhanging wall to the slab above. Take a #1 to place before the bolts. FA: Matt Watson, 1992 | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | Gravity Failure
The bolted arete across the path from The Ludovico Technique. FA: C. Morris, 1983 | 7m, 3 | |||
19 | Hidden Agendas
Up the face left of Quiet Desperation. FA: G. Davidson, 1985 | 20m, 5 | |||
19 | Whip It Harder
Right of Quiet Deperation. FA: G. Bronson, 1986 | 20m, 4 | |||
15 | Whip That Rooster
Boulder start into the slab above. FA: G. Bronson, 1986 | 20m, 4 | |||
Lake Taupō Fechado Whanganui Bay The Plateau | |||||
21 | ★★ Balfourspace
Found at the far left of the crag by itself. Difficult first section starting up the groove on the left or the slab on the right. Then head up past ledges then slab before the final headwall. FA: 1998 | 27m, 10 | |||
21 | ★ Slave to the Rhythm
Furthest left of the climbs found in Mid-Life Crisis Area. This area is 30m right of Balfourspace. Climb up the face then left over the bulge before heading right. FA: Phil Castle, 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ 21 Classic Dance Tunes
Start up the slab with the slim seam to the right of STTR then head leftat steeper ground. Head back right then up the headwall. FA: Len Gillman, 1984 | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Jive Junkies
Head up the groove to the right of the black streaked slab. Step left onto the slab then up the corner and face, drifting left onto the faces at the top. FA: Kester Brown, 2003 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★★ Mid-Life Crisis
Start as for JJ, but continue up the groove to the right. Harder alternative start to the right, up the unenticing V-slot. FA: Phil Castle, 1998 | 20m, 8 | |||
19 | ★★ Hands Solo
P1 (19): Start up slabby ground on the right end of the wall. Head right to a belay station after 3 bolts. P2 (22): Crank through the bulge to gain the ledge. Up through another bulge then follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. FA: James Wright | 32m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Tickle Test
This route is the first on the Knobs and Knockers Area. Found 15m right of Hands Solo. Start as for ST. At some point head left then up left of ST ledge. Head up following the bolts to the top of the cliff. FA: Len Gillman, 1987 | 40m, 14 | |||
17 | ★★ Sporting Gesture
Just right of the bush filled corner, climb the dark slab to an obvious ledge. FA: Debbie Hind, 1993 | 12m, 7 | |||
20 | ★★ Knobs and Knockers
From SG ledge head up the left side of the vague arete to a committing mantle. Then up and right to the belay. FA: Len Gillman, 1984 | 18m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Dream of White Snatches
From the far right of KAK ledge climb the black streak. FA: Len Gillman, 1984 | 18m, 7 | |||
21 | Stranger than Friction
FA: Len Gillman | 5 | |||
17 | ★ Forever Tuesday Morning
FA: Tony Stempa & Simon Vallings | 22m | |||
17 | ★ Piki Mai
FA: P.Castle | 22m | |||
20 | Pukeko, Aue! (Mind The Yellow Lichen)
| 26m, 7 | |||
20 | Kotuku
FA: John Barnes & Frances Woodhead | 21m | |||
17 | ★ Eccentric Galumbits
Back on the ground there is a short slab in the bush. This climb is up the left side of this slab. FA: Jo Straker, 1985 | 9m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ The Triple Beast
The right hand side of the slab. FA: Grant Davidson, 1985 | 9m, 3 | |||
20 | Ooh Um It Art
This route and HH require climbing the grade 16 access route found by heading right along the access track from TTB. This is Smear Tactics Area. From the ledge above the access route head towards a right V corner. Gear needed in thin crack. Head left onto the face at the overhang. Gear and bolts. FA: Len Gillman, 1984 | 20m, 5 | |||
22 | Hoover Hog
Start as for OUIA to gain the honeycomb wall on the right side of the face. Head up through the steep bulge and pumpy headwall. Gear if needed. FA: Mike Rockell, 1987 | 26m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Last Words of Hassan Sabbah
Right of the access route. Head up the bulging red wall to the mossy slab. Finish at the ledge. FA: Roland Foster, 1985 | 15m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Asking for Absolution
From the top of LWOHS, a bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing on the upper wall. FA: Nick Monteith & James Wright | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ Nameless
Start up the slab just right of ST. From the slab tackle the tilted wall. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ Graemeless
Start up the groove left of SO. Follow the white diagonal features through the steep bulge. FA: Roland Foster, 1985 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Something Outrageous
Shares the start with Bunny in Disguise before reading left to the slightly overhanging wall to the bulge. Has a second pitch but not many people have said good things about it FA: Grant Davidson, 1984 | 25m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ Bunny in Disguise
| 10m | |||
25 | ★★★ The Pumice Stone Kid
| 30m, 9 | |||
18 | ★ A Change of Tune
| 10m | |||
21 | ★★ Shneiderburner
FA: Paul Tattersell & Joh Chambers, 1987 | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Lord Kim Strike Me Down
FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1984 | 9m, 2 | |||
25 | ★ Easy Pickings
FA: Martyn Owen, 1998 | 30m, 12 | |||
24 | ★★★ Kafunkafunkafunkapteschew!
Climbing the wall on sloping huecos to a tough move at the top, shares anchor with "gunga din" FA: Simon Vallings, 1983 | 18m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Childhood's End
| 14m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Picked The Wrong Week To Give Up Chocolate Marshmallowpuffs
FA: Simon Vallings, 1983 | 14m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Manoomanoomamoomanoom
| ||||
23 | ★★ Miracles of Fluid Dynamics
Starts up the blunt arete to the anchor at the ledge. You decide if the name is fitting or not. | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Rough Trade
Starts in the scoop. Head up the crack to thin moves. Belay in the cave. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
29 | Trilogy
FA: John Palmer, 2004 | 18m, 9 | |||
29 | Trinity
FA: Kester Brown, 2000 | 18m, 8 | |||
29 | Tiger-style
FA: Colin Pohl, 1997 | 18m, 6 | |||
27 | Even Dwarves Started Small
FA: Roland Foster, 1985 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | ★ The Green Dragon
Starts off the boulder. Up the steep corner right of Even Dwarves Started Small. FA: Mick Rockell, 1988 | 8m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ So LA
Head up the overhang left of the crack. Traverse left below the 2nd bolt to the headwall above. FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983 | 15m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Revolver
Starts as for So LA, but heads straight through the overhang. FA: Kristen Foley, 2013 | 15m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Hot Lava
Climbs the red wall, following the bolts around the groove/corner. Drift left at the top to the anchor. FA: Neil Parker, 1987 | 30m, 8 | |||
19 | ★ There Goes the Neighbourhood
Climbs the low angle arete to the ledge, followed by thuggy moves to the anchor. FA: Phil Castle, 1987 | 18m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Hideous Music and the Sound of Shotguns
Climbs the corner/groove feature. A spicy outing. FA: Mick Rockell, 1985 | 27m, 4 | |||
28 | ★★★ El Topo
"One of the best routes in NZ" FA: Roland Foster, 1984 | 25m, 4 | |||
27 | ★ Sex and Violence
Typical runout Roland Foster route. Starts up the slab before the headwall. Past the third bolt either fight to the anchor or go to Nothing's Shocking anchor. FA: Roland Foster, 1984 | 25m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ Nothing's Shocking
Climbs the slab on small pockets. Avoid heading left onto Sex and Violence. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ A Savage Journey to the Heart of the American Dream
Head up the dihedral to the right before a final finger crack (which takes good gear if you're scared) FA: Mick Rockell, 1985 | 20m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Emma Louise
Climbs to the pillar right of A Savage Journey. Gets easier the higher you get. FA: Kester Brown, 1999 | 20m, 6 | |||
27 | ★ Jumping Jive
Climbs to the bulging face with a distinct crux. Climbed by a a hotshot Australian. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 15m, 3 | |||
Lake Taupō Fechado Whanganui Bay Up De Do Da Buttress | |||||
23 | Stinky Groove
FA: James Wright, 1997 | 25m, 7 | |||
19 | Sustainable Spasms
FA: Tony Stempa & Alan Wilkie, 1989 | 7m, 2 | |||
17 | Captain Custard
FA: Pippa McKay, 1982 | 6m, 4 | |||
22 | Wounded Knee
FA: Mike Rockell & Ton Snelder, 1986 | 6 | |||
24 | When We Were Kings
FA: Alex Palman | 20m, 7 | |||
22 | Thunderbirds Are Go
FA: Len Gillman, 2003 | 19m, 7 | |||
20 | Ruru
FA: Len Gillman, 1997 | 20m, 6 | |||
Lake Taupō Fechado Whanganui Bay Lobotomy Buttress | |||||
20 | Just Playing
FA: Simon Vallings & Paul Mason, 1983 | 8m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Dazed and Confused
FA: Simon Vallings & Paul Mason, 1983 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Punishment of Luxury
3rd route from the left. FA: Simon Vallings & Paul Mason | 14m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Duudooduudoo
The name is Duudooduudoo as in a heart beating heavily. Originally two pitches with the belay in the cave, but most people climb this as one long 45m climb. Watch your rope length. FA: Simon Vallings, 1984 | 45m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★★ Turbomingent Torremounting Tossers
Start as for Duudoo and then blast right to the arete after the cave belay for Evolution. FA: Simon Vallings | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Evolution
FA: Len Gillman | 18m, 7 | |||
22 | Zip Zap
First bolt shared with 'Evolution'. FA: Len Gillman | 16m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Nobody's hero
FA: Grant Davidson & Jo Straker | 20m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Bart
FA: Grant Davidson, Graeme Aimer & Trent Hiles, 1984 | 20m, 4 | |||
18 | Fagin
FA: Jo Straker, Grant Davison & Grant Davidson, 1984 | 11m, 2 | |||
Lake Taupō Fechado Whanganui Bay Mangakara Pacifica Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret
Head up to the first bolt before traversing left, then up the middle of the bulging wall. Finishes up the tricky short arete. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 25m, 9 | |||
20 | ★★ Ignition
Access from the Re-Ignition belay ledge. Goes up the fun headwall after a damp start. Link into Re-Ignition for a mega route. FA: Kristen Foley, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Re-Ignition
From The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret ledge, head straight up the featured wall with some fire-hot moves to pull over the bulge. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 25m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Pacifica
Rap in to the small ledge level with Re-Ignitions 3rd bolt. Climb the overhanging feature to your right before the lip. Topping out is not an option, so either climb Re-Ignition or walk out to get back to the road. FA: Kester Brown, 2001 | 18m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Rip & Run
Starts steep and juggy before the left-facing corner. Tackle the final bulges to gain access to the anchor. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 28m, 10 | |||
24 | ★★★ The Man on the Clapham Omnibus
Go up the central part of the wall going through a wide variety of terrain. Extendable draws will be useful. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2013 | 28m | |||
23 | The Hit Parade
From the ledge, climb up towards the arete before a final headwall. Exit by scrambling up the vegetated bolt garden FA: Kristen Foley, 2013 | 23m, 8 | |||
26 | ★ The Wire
Climbs the gentle featured arete. Access from the top or a diagonal rap. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 26m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Propaganda
Alternate of Propagation. Start as for Propagation, but head left up the hanging arete. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 20m, 9 | |||
21 | ★★★ The Re-Up
From the Propagation belay, trend right up the featured wall, staying right of the seam before joining the last few meters of Propagation. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2013 | 20m, 11 | |||
The Bunk Project
Fifty meters right of The Re-Up. Climbs the peapod feature before going up the headwall. Closed Project. | 15m | ||||
23 | ★★ The New Day Co-Op
Alternate finish to The Bunk Project. Climbs the right trending seam to the pocketed headwall. FA: John Palmer, 2014 | 15m, 5 | |||
Reporoa Gorge Christmas Crag | |||||
18 | ★★ Three Boulders
FA: Matt Natti & Fionn Claydon, 2006 | 9m, 4 | |||
Project
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20 | ★★ Flying Frenchman
Technical stemming leads last 2 bolts to the anchor FA: Matt Natti, 2007 | 14m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Cyclopean Nightmare
FA: Steven King, 2007 | 8 |