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One of the routes with better rock on Helvetestinden. The first pitch is softer than 7 (6+) but long (60m+) & bold. Double 3s & a 4 recommended for P3 (7-). Pitch 4 is long but closer to N6.

On the East Face of Stamprevtinden South Peak. There´s a topo here and full trip report here.

Descent:

follow the south ridge until the Helvetestinden pass and down a gully to the Kirkefjord

Topo here

Description here

A description & topo available here

On the North Face of Moltbaertinden North Peak. Description & topo available

Descent:

two rappels until the north ridge. Follow the ridge to the north and down a large gully between Moltbaertinden and Breiflogtinden.

Shared start with One Hundred Years Later on the grassy slopes above a leaning pillar. All stances are bolted.

Crimps & slab lead to a steeper finish on good holds

A short slab then burly moves to establish into the dihedral. It´s engaging stemming, side pulls and jamming from here to the chains.

Starts in the corner to the right of the roof. Shared lower off with Projekt 2

Criminally under climbed, this is one of the best road side finger cracks in the North.

An old guidebook mistake has seen more traffic on this route than it deserves. Bold.

Put by a Bohuslän climber. Bold.

Fun climbing with some hard and delicate moves. Tougher and more poorly protected than Snickar glädje

Hard start and scene of a couple of broken ankles. Consider bringing a boulder pad/ clipping a pre-placed 1st piece

Clean dog-leg crack on the left side of the cliff. Convenient lower-off.

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Tight hands to offwidth crack. Fun jamming test piece that´s easy for the small hand crowd (7-) & tough work for large hands (7)

Bolted anchor as of July 2019

1. 40m

2. 30m

3. 30m

4. 50m

5. 20m

6. 50m

Located opposite side of the fjord (North).

A committing mixed line on the left slab.

Short route with crux just off the ground. Bring small wires/cams

Some excellent crack, slab and face climbing. The physical crux is bolted (and can easily be French freed).

Images here:

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Some images here-

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A direct route straight up the middle of Presten linking together some excellent pitches from 4 classic routes. Scenic & well protected, it´s a particularly great outing for busy days on the Priest.

1. As for Vestpillaren.

2. As for Vestpillaren.

3. Take the slanting left corner up to a small ledge (As for Variasjon til en variasjon).

4. The rarely climbed second pitch of Variasjon til en variasjon trends gently left via easy slabs up to Storhylla. Build the belay at the black section of rock to your left.

5. Climb up the black section of rock to the base of the right facing groove (The Klokkeren corner system)

6. As for Klokkeren.

7. As for Klokkeren.

8. As for Klokkeren, building your belay after passing the fixed piton under the roof.

9. Head out left under the roof, pulling through an overhang. Continue following easier flakes & cracks to a ledge below the slanting groove pitch.

10. As for Vestpillaren original avslutning.

11. As for Vestpillaren original avslutning.

The original finish goes left from the slanting corner ledge.

1. A traverse pitch. Head up the face then out left under the overhang. Follow the crack system from here up to a ledge. Route finding and pro on this pitch take some time to figure out.

2. Easier climbing follows the crack system up the right side of the belay to a ledge below the RF corner.

3. Finger jam and stem your way up the slanting groove to a good ledge. Extra small to medium wires handy.

4. Up & over a tricky bulge. Climb easier thin cracks until it´s possible to escape left. Pick a belay spot then scramble to the top.

1. As for Gamle rev.

2. Variation right out on the arete. Belay on the sloping ledge when you rejoin Gamle rev.

3. As for Gamle rev.

Quality climbing linking direct crack systems up the center of the cliff. The N7 moves on P4 can be avoided at A0 (escape also possible via fishermans friend at n6-)

1. As for Johan Boyer. 35m

2. As for Johan Boyer or Vikingjenta. 35m

3. Climb the crack to the right up to the tree below the block. 15m

4. Up the block with the perfect handcrack in a corner. Traverse left, then right again before powering straight up the strenuous overhanging hand crack. Fun!! 25m

5. Follow easy slab and cracks right, left, then right again to the top. 20m

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