Vias em Oceania para uma graduação selecionada

Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie.

Start on slopey holds in the roof, head straight out and up through heel hook trickery.

Climb Rodeo Girl and head left to the arete and up. Bad landing.

Start as for Running Man and traverse the horizontal weakness 6m right via hard crimpy moves to big pockets and top out to the right on good holds.

Sit start matched in the slot under the roof. Finish up pump action.

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Ridunculous.

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Pump Action.

The longest pumper on the wall. Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Last Waltz.

Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist.

Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves?

Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard.

Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'.

Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.

Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.

A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.

Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.

Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.

One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.

Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right.

The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.

Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug.

Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade.

A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds.

Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem.

The moderate classic of the cave - but that starts and ends nowhere in particular.

Start: Start on the major flake line, about 5 metres from the bottom wall of the cave - on a realtively juggy flakey bit.

Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem.

Start as for Wimmel Friedhoff and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

One of the easier problems, but quite good.

Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start.

Start as for 'Rave Heart' and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff

Start as for 'Extended World' but finish as for all of 'Rave Heart'.

Funky fun. More technical than hard really.

Start: Start at the bottom left hand side of the cave (near a 'window').

Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left.

Sit-start left of Paparazzi and traverse right all the way to Krusti's finish hold.

Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite'

Left arete of the main boulder - 4m left of CM. First ascent by Julien Saunders.

Central line up the face 4m left of WWE

Dynamic one-mover

More like a route. Long and intense line right of 'The Cop...' going all the way to the top of the wall.

Start: Awesome position. Starts on the North face of 'Eastern Walls' and traverses left to arête and up awesome position. An old project opened up by Chris. Grade is ????

In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back.

Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start.

The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake.

The blunt arete on the track with a dihedral corner is climb from a stand start off a flat top jug.

The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish.

Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit.

On the east side of the boulder (facing downstream) is a blunt arete. From a sit start (the stand is a very good V8 in its own right) climb the edges right of the seam. Long moves lead to a tricky conclusion. Try not to ping off into the creek.

Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy.

From the big rock to the right of TFOTL, pull on and climb rightwards over small technical holds to finish above Trippa Snippa. Eliminate the juggy rail up high, stay low and techy.

The beefy main line of slopers going to the top of the uphill side of the boulder. Sit start on crimps and bad feet, climb up and right before big moves through the slopers and to the top.

Riley Kenna's channel!

Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face.

Start from the back of the cave. Burst out to the lip and continue up the slopey arete.

From the start of The Walker, head right on crimps to finish on Evac.

Sit start on the arete, slap up and finish as for The Quickening.

One of Weill's faves. Sit start on underclings 2m left of the arete. Bust left to side pull, right to undercling pocket, then two very slopey pinches. Exit for Anonymous Arete

Sit start on small edges.

Sit start from an undercling and a slopey lip. Pull straight up.

Sit start and climb the wall via the discontinuous crack. A good problem.

Sit start and climb the wall via crimps and pockets. Nice moves.

Slopey and crimpy, partially overhanging and at least 6m high. Makes for an amazing boulder problem. Perhaps V9 or above.

Starts on pockets as for Journey Through the Cossmoss then technical moves L all the way across the cave to finish at the start of LBP.

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

An impressive effort – Malcolm, as is his want, made sure each piece of gear (except the fixed piton) was placed on lead. A few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, there is a major gully. Follow the right side of this gully uphill, initially past a couple of sports routes (Valley of Fear and Jurassic Adventures) and onward about another 50m to a striking diagonal overhanging crack/seam. Follow the relentlessly overhanging pocketed seam; trad gear with one fixed pin to a double bolt anchor.

One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don't get much better.

Start: Start 5m down R of 'Krankandangle'.

Lunacy endurance traverse. Your forearms will explode.

A great line that was strangely one of the last routes added. Seems so obvious now.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Desert Rose'.

The original Vic Ranges hard route. Mega. Some think it might be 31...

Start: Start 5m R of DR at major scoopy weakness. Power endurance classic past 6 bolts to anchor

Tough rightwards heading line right of Flower Power. Slopy.

A bit of a glue job. The glued on hold has come off once again. Probably impossible atm january 2015

Aim for the pockets and up.

In cave on the right of Wall of Fame.

Ugur's channel

Cesar

Start as for Mind Over Matter, at the good left incut head left through a small crimp and gaston to top out Styles that Fade Away.

Sit start then up edges to vague traverse line then traverse left across edges and slopes to left hand topout

Takes the Simply Red start, then traverses left and heads straight through the roof joining A Little Rusty for the finish.

Under the roof of Pixie. Out and right via a sloper, then left via crimps on lip to slope, and match up to jug.