Vias em Oceania para uma graduação selecionada

Jumps from the hole to the board of the roof. Hard swing. Easy exit.

Start as for Kukkurdì then follow the underclings. Exit as for SRBD.

Start on the good jug on left side of the scoop. Exit left with the underclings. Fantastic.

Start on the ramp, hard dynamic move to reach the last jug.

Very big jump.

Start 2m right of Babau. Jump to reach the board (ledge) then exit as Babau. The big jug on left is out.

Start deep in the cave on the jug. Continue on one finger pockets. Strange method.

Peter Jeavons

Same as Areia No Zoio, but go straight at the roof without using the left wall.

Hard. V9 to V10.

Sit start on the decent ledgey holds left of spark. Traverse the break, down low and link into the project. Looks very hard

From the sit. May have been done before. High finish.

Traverse.

Sheila Binegas

Start low on small crimps below the big letterbox jug. Punch up to it on various crimps and slopers and jump to the top. Good and Fun.

A more direct finish to 'The Last Great Line'. Sit start at the end of the cave, matching the first hold. Traverse until you reach the RH undercling slot and a LH sidepull crimp. From there, head up and then left to finish on the big jugs.

Emmanuel Madayag | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso

Start on the obvious break at the back of the wall, climb out the steepest section and top out right of the pipe.

Emmanuel Madayag

Stand start up the slab in the high break. Follow the steep arete out left to top out. Rocks to the right obviously are out.

RHV of Piranha. Pretty much the same climb with a much easier mantle.

"A vertical wall which is the remains of a disused quarry can be found on the western side of Woolloomooloo Bay at Finger Wharf. Developed by Peter Balint and Mike Myers in the late 80's" - .sydneyrockies.org.au

Powerful and continuous 30m traverse starting from the ledge, following the lower crack line (and a few chipped-in holes) and finishing near the far right corner.

Grassy landing, no crashpad required.

Just right of the cave is a large protruding fridge feature. Sit start on the lowest holds and slap up the sides to a mantle crux directly up. The separate section of rock to the right is off for hands and feet. Enjoyable moves that may be easier with cleaning.

Start below obvious nested crimp on holds under the rooflet before moving up and right through said crimp. Join directly into the large jug on Kumamoto staying off the earlier holds used for this problem. Insects rain from above.

Stand start on the large scoop feature and underclings further right. Move up commiting onto good holds up right then back left finishing high on the top lip. Tall and upper holds are flexing.

Sit start matched on the low crimp, up to lip via small crimps.

i cant get it but if someone can please take a video and grade it

Sit/crouch start matched on arete using horn pinch and dimple feature, chug along arete and diagonal cracks to the top and out, bail to fail slab crimp is in. Jaime Williams (FA)

Same as for spitfire, just eliminating the crimp on the slab face used in bail to fail. Feels harder than a V8 but too soft for a 9. Jaime Williams (FA)

The hard 'direct' line up the arete. Sit start on the low horizontal rail. Climb up using cool crimpy rails and compression on the water-polished arete. Pretty unique! Top out as per 'Shazza Dazza'.

Start as Beast breaker but bust out left from slots and finish left. Can be broken with a high heel but v9/10 grade comes with big left gaston.

Start on right facing slopey sidepull and slot below, Make your way through the slots then top out right.

Start as for Little Feet but shoot right to the slopey crimp to join Lopockcito. Eman

Very Cool hard problem. Start in the roof under the pinches just before the crux of TG. Go direct to the first pinches on TG. From here move R into the obvious rib and the eventual jugs. Finish out LYTD, the back wall is out!

Alex Lopes

The full shebang!! Matt’s originally mega line, set free and sent by that strong young Cossey lad. Starts up Cougars, across Battle Cat, bit of a rest on the 50 Shades ledge then bang out the top boulder of Kids with Knives then hold that pump to finish topped out above the Junkyard Dog.

Perhaps more scary then it is hard… Stand start with your RH in a four finger pocket and your LH in a two finger pocket. Move to a LH pocket and some crimps before a big dyno to a slopey crimp. Keep moving up to make a committing move to gain the left jug at the break.

Sit start (LH) on an under cling jug and (RH) on a large pinch. Make some burly moves to gain the lip heading right to an edge and small pocket before moving to the break.

Has recently been vandalised by kids?? One hold a little broken and chips out of another..

Chris Beers

Sit start as for "Max I Am" and make some big moves right to gain the scoop on "Ice Eyes", finish as for "Ice Eyes".

Chris Beers

Sit start matched on a right facing under cling. Move left to some shallow pockets in the roof before some hard moves to gain the large pocket on the lip. Finish in the break.

Leah Dempsey Chris Beers

Stand start in the crack corner near the end of Anger Management. Right hand on the shelf, left hand at the bottom of the crack below it. Move up into the undercling crack and traverse up and left until an easy topout around the corner.

Peter Jeavons

Up Tiptoe to the jug, then back out around the bulge and across into the last jugs of the Anger Management topout. Minor dabbing on the tree is not an issue but shouldn’t aid the climber. Stay safe.

Peter Jeavons

Low left start from slopey pinches at the back before joining MM.

Sit starts with huge move from the back and coming out feet first to gain the jugs on the hanging arête before following this straight up and finishing as for MM (the stand can be done as a V7).

Start as for James and the Giant Reach, finishing left as for Big Peach.

V8/9 Super cool prow of the Corridor Boulder. Sit start low left then out to the right arête and up!

Stand start approx. 2 metres or so right of the short left hand arête. A funky series of moves left to gain the arête before finishing on a jug where the arête ends.

Sam Healy

Double arete. Start back of cave matched on undercling, out & up.

Horizontal fridge hugging into tough mantle.

Strait out angled roof to desperate top out. Great route.

Sit start and straight up the 45 degree wall and top out. high !!! Very good . Best sea cliff problem in Sydney.

Crouch start on ledge at lip and finish on ledge up and left. Another classic. Big cut over rock pool makes this problem very exciting.

Traverse roof and finish up CGS . No backwall

Huge dyno out of roof . With a slight varient finish to sustain the grade . Great problem

The first king line completed! Bring your knee pads to make good use of the two rests because this is looong. Links Prehistoric Punk -> Renegades of Punk -> Nirvana -> Punk Soccer then escapes out the chimney.

Start at the same big jug as Bored gecko. Go right making a massive move to traverse past the crack. Keep going right to Nidorian's knee bar and make another big move to big jug flake.

Kai Buckman

Dylan Hill

Start up Pumprocker for a few moves, then head straight left reversing the crimp crux of Nirvana, and finish up the big undercling move of Renegades.

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft. Essentially climbs the wall left of GD without using the obvious holds on the routes either side.

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

Start with left hand in nice undercling in roof and right on a decent pinch. Kick right foot up into the jug and you are away, head left to good 2 finger pocket/sloper at the lip and then mantle.

Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE

Start on the rhs of the boulder at a big obvious jug. Move onto the roof jugs, go right hand to the lip, then move up to the good edge via slopers and mantle...

Start low at Pull-kun, traverse left into Pullman, then join into Hail to the crimp.

Sit start same as 'Gatekeeper'. Move up and left using heels and compression on the arete to the jug out left on the slab. Go up and top out.

Sit start LH undercling pocket & RH gaston crimp. Using the arete and other holds, move up and right into the crack and keep going up.

A tad contrived for the sake of more problems. Stand start on the lowest footer with both LH & RH on sidepulls. Move up and right through a series of pockets & crimps to exit the same as 'Grace Under Pressure'

Obvious jug foot and all rock to the right of the break is OUT

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

A perfect boulder problem on a rope. Three moves to glory... slip, slop, slap.

The line just to the right of Meet The G. Fun climbing via some sandy sections to a heartbreaker ending. Conditions help. Previously known by another name. The first ascentionist has requested that the route be known by the original name given to it by the equipper.

This is the left arete of the awesome hanging wall. Climb from the ground to a sustained boulder problem past the last 2 bolts.

Sit start matched on the rail (left side of the face). Bust out right into flake and turn on your go-go-gadget arms to grab heuco further right. From here, head straight up to jugs around lip and top out.

Mega classic. V7 if you’re Alec or Pat

LH crimp that you use to throw to the finishing jug has snapped. There is still a hold there but probably goes at a harder grade * Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!*

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

A worthwhile line that skips the first move of The Crotty.

Sit start as per Unknown, but don't go up to large jug and jug pocket (these are eliminated). Instead, from the good crimp rail, head right to join and finish up The Crotty.

Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

5m left of Slurry Whipping. Line of RBs over bulge to double RBs.

The line just right of lucious, a sandy start leads into some tough but good bouldery moves through the roof, finishes up Aloha.

Start as for Comin' at ya Pundi, through initial crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco.

Extension to Old, Fat and Married.

Insane! A line of holds just happens to lead into the belly of the big roof, meeting the Big Cheese for the final few moves at the lip. The star destroyer shaped roof is brilliant pocketed sandstone.

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw

As for Stinky Cheese for 8 metres or so. Head up through the slopey flake to the start of the roof. Go left about 10 metres to join the last 3 moves of Cheesemonster (stay high).

Contrived but how i believe it was originally climbed, Without using the lefthand underling. lock it and load it!

Start from obvious jug. Right hand to crimp and Left hand to side-pull pocket to finish at break. (please edit the name if you know the name of this line).

Sit start and up then left to finish at the break out left.