Guidebooks
Help

Ascents as various tick types as sport by Paul Frothy Thomson

Searching in:

Ascent filters:

  • Wearable
  • Milestone
  • Protection
  • Journey
-

Route filters:

Climber filters:

Sort by:

Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,363 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 4th May 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
23 Shagohod - with Philip Barker Sport 15m, 6 Classic
Repeat. Rather stop-start, but the upper moves are my favourite of the crag.

 
22 Sahelanthropus - with Philip Barker Sport 14m, 6 Classic
Repeat. Absolutely cruised this. No way it was ever 23 (not sure what I was thinking?) Awesome technical climbing on weirdly good rock the whole way.

 
21 ~21 Outer Haven - with Philip Barker Sport 15m, 5 Good
2 Laps. After a long morning working one of my upper mountains projects, this one felt hard today. Fun enough for what it is.

 
Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
21 Not Here to F$#k Spiders Sport 35m Very Good
2 laps to verify the route/quality. Really interesting, sustained, technical slabbing/face climbing. Now the easiest route to exit the crag with.

 
24 Get a Black Dog Up Ya - with Gavin Sport 35m, 17 Very Good
Clean repeat. Much better than I remembered it (and much easier)! Essentially 2 boulders surrounded by easy climbing, but both boulders are rad. With some rope management, this is very achievable as a giant single pitch.

 
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander
28 Water Hazard - with Match Sport 36m Classic
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Just the one lap for fitness and to re-remember the beta for Match . I was pretty happy to put together the entirety of the upper crux section with minimal hassle, years after I was last on this. Amazing climbing from about the 5th bolt up!

 
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
23 Shagohod Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
I really enjoyed this, but its probably not for everyone. Went really easily today, so its probably not as hard as I thought it was. A really funky, fun, steep finale with some very weird moves

 
21 ~21 Outer Haven Sport 15m, 5 Good
Repeat. As I said before, if you stay out of the cave, this is actually quite fun, and the crux is enjoyable.

 
Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
25 Hard Being and Nothingness (2nd Edition) Sport 35m, 12 Classic
Clean Repeat TRS.

After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit.

In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up.

I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it.

Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County.

 
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
26 ~25 Leviathan Sport 32m, 15 Classic
Clean Repeat. Revenge! Had to work at the top, but still managed to punch this straight out today. So much fun.

 
23 ~22 Smoko Sport 35m, 16 Classic
Clean repeat. Revenge! How did I fall off this last weekend? Still awesome.

 
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
26 ~25 Leviathan Sport 32m, 15 Classic
Repeat attempt, not clean today. No real problems to the top boulder, but -absent chalk- it took me a bit to piece it together. Essentially, three boulders (each getting harder than the other) with easier climbing and good rests inbetween. The top headwall is super rad.

 
25 Easy The Life of Riley Sport 35m Classic
Clean repeat. Sweet! It's been a decade since I was last on this (when I ticked it) and it was rad to get on it today and just do it straight up, placing draws, without too much difficulty.

One of the best technical, sustained, and consistently clean face climbs in NSW.

 
23 ~22 Smoko Sport 35m, 16 Classic
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Whoops... The unsend! Totally botched the crux. Otherwise, had a great old time. This route is always so much better than I remember it being

 
Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall
21 Sugar Mountain Sport 10m Very Good
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.

 
Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso Golgotha
22 The Long Kiss Goodnight Sport 25m, 12 Very Good
Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.

 
19 Ghost Rider Sport 27m, 10 Classic
Clean repeat. Just pleasant, flowing slabbing the whole way. Dreamy!

 
Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Leviathan
22 No Antidote Sport 15m Very Good
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.

 
21 Yuddy Boody Noo Sport 15m Very Good
Repeat. Weird, funky, and tough.

 
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock
New Horizons
24 The Mullets' Edge Sport 18m Classic
Repeat attempt - not clean today. In this instance, I couldn't even touch the opening move, but had no real trouble from after it to the top. But for the bouldery start, this route is better, and more arete-y than I remember it.

 
21 Way Of The Beanie Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Really short, but really tricky and unrelenting in my opinion. I came close to falling a few times.

 
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill
22 Rock Around the Clock Sport 15m Very Good
Short, but intense and unlikely.

 
19 Crocodile Rock Sport 14m Very Good
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.

 
17 Rock N Roll is King Sport 12m Good
An okay face climb.

 
23 Rock Hard and Ride Free Sport 20m Very Good
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.

 
23 Hard as a Rock Sport 20m Very Good
Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.

 
21 Let’s Get Rocked Sport 18m Very Good
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.

 
Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
24 Heaven Can Wait Sport 30m, 14 Classic
Repeat attempt -not clean today. Frustrating. I first onsighted this back in 2016, and have never fallen off it since. Today, I got utterly schooled. Some big falls, much complaining, and a pathetic effort. The sun didn't help, but that's certainly not wholly to blame.

 
23 Fire in the sky Sport 30m, 16 Very Good
Clean repeat. Well, at least I can still get up this one despite weakness and temps. Still a personal favourite.

 
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area
24 Mister Bean Sport 30m, 10 Classic
Repeat. 2 Laps. Truth be told, I fell off the bulge-boulder below the arete on my first lap, but corrected it on the second. A mixed bag of quality, and the arete itself is really easy, but it was still fun enough. Pretty much every hard move is escapable if you stray from the bolts a bit.

 
22 ~23 Just Technical Sport 15m Classic
Repeat. 2 Laps for training. Damn I love this thing

 
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area
21 Rex Hunt's Love Child Sport 30m, 10 Classic
Repeat. This is just a really fun climb, and not too hard at the grade. Feeling good on the slow return-to-form after 5 months on the couch.

 
Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ghidrah
25 King Geedorah - with Match Sport 70m Mega Classic
TRS Lap -seconding Mitch after the FA. Not clean today (2 falls) but given that I'd been on the couch for 5 months to this point, I was happy just to try really hard.

Most of my post-accident re-introduction to climbing has been tame, approachable, conventional crags. Being back on this monstrous monster is the sort of experience that reminds me why I've been trying to claw my way back to climbing so desperately. What a way to come back.

 
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
21 ~21 Outer Haven - with Glen Thomson Sport 15m, 5 Good
FA. Some great climbing at the start and once you start turning the cave roof, but the escapability into the choss cave, and the rock surrounding it knocks a start off. Might be hard at the grade? Though the grade is contingent on following the line of the bolts on the good rock, and not straying off into the choss.

 
10 Snake Cave Access Route Sport 10m, 4 Don't Bother
Ugh. Sand.

 
21 Peacewalker - with Glen Thomson Sport 16m, 6 Very Good
FA. A super cool hard start up steep jugs, and a tricky face on great rock... then easier, but less inspiring climbing to the top.

 
Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave
22 Sahelanthropus - with Greg Ducky, Philip Barker Sport 14m, 6 Classic
FA. A "Lowers Mountains Classic" (with all the caveats that statement encompasses).

A climb of many components, but the technical finale is definitely a show stopper. No boring bits, that's for sure.

 
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Main Wall (Upper)
21 Gimme Your Fingernails - with Philip Barker Sport 13m, 6 Very Good
Short'n'sweet. Went direct through the small roof at the start to gain the line of the bolts (rather than heading out right, and traversing in via the corner).

When climbed this way, it's quite sustained the whole way, with lots of interesting thin moves.

 
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence The Lost Woods
18 Hard Korok Climb - with Philip Barker, Greg Ducky Sport 15m Good
First Ascent. Climbed ground-up before it was cleaned/brushed, and it felt like gr21... But after a good session to clean it, it's settled at 18.

An interesting short slab, on mostly good rock, marred only by its escapability.

 
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls
25 The Terrible Truth About Time - with Heath Black Sport 35m, 14 Classic
Stacked! So many dropable moves the whole way up. A face-climbing connoisseur's delight! Seconding the First Ascent clean -I almost came unstuck when the FA decided to use a locked locking bina bolt-side at the hardest crux, resulting in some mid-crux desperation. A classic for sure.

 
23 No Questions Asked - with Heath Black Sport 25m, 11 Very Good
Super exposed arete climbing. Would be 3 stars but the rock is slightly less than perfect. Very technical, yet steep and pumpy.

 
Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Vaucluse
Diamond Bay Northern Wall
24 Violet Town - with Tom Collins Sport 18m, 8 Classic
2nd shot. Fell off AFTER the upper crux on my onsight due to an amateurish foot-slip on an easy move 2nd shot was a cruise, but DAMN its fun. Really nice rock, cool moves, and not too hard at the grade. This would be a classic anywhere, in my opinion.

 
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone
25 He Said, She Said - with Match Sport 20m, 11 Classic
Clean repeat. Super fun. This one ha cleaned up nicely since I last did it. Easy for the grade. Great start and finish

 
23 Sensory Overload - with Match Sport 20m, 12 Very Good
Another repeat. Never gets old

 
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown
25 Little Boyce Room — 2 attempts Sport 26m Classic
Great! Not too hard at the grade, but bloody awesome. The low crux is just fun, but everything above it is mega at about gr23. Great rock, and pretty sustained. Might be my favourite route here.

 
26 Yumster — 6 attempts Sport 25m Very Good
6th shot. Took me 4 laps to ever come up with a consistent sequence for the crux. 5th lap I went through the crux, and fell off the first stemming move... 6th lap for the win.

 
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown
26 Beastie Boyce — 6 attempts Sport 30m Very Good
6th shot total, and 4 core-shotting falls at the lower crux.

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown
25 Boyce Light Up Sport 30m, 16 Very Good
2nd shot. I only carried 2 draws through the crux, so climbed the top 20m clipping only 2 bolts.

A funky (but incongruous) start crux leads to a magnificient gr21ish headwall up cool grooves and scoops.

 
Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown
24 Bad Boyce Bad Boyce Sport 35m Classic
Coukd be hard at the grade. Hilarious roof jugging, to gnarly lip-turn traversing. Loooong.

 
Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Kiama
Bombo Quarry Butt Muncher Buttress
22 Till The Ocean Takes Us All - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 17m, 8 Good
Not as nice at its lefthand neighbour, but it does feature a super-rad step-across move to make it all worthwhile.

 
22 Butt Muncher - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Nice rock, and fairly sustained. This was definitely a challenging introduction to bombo (and I may have almost fallen off at one point).

 
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Nowra
The Grotto Cliffline P.C.
25 Escape From the Drilling Fields - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 20m Very Good
Repeat attempt for a warmup, not clean today -didn't stick the move to the sloper at the end. Wasn't pumped, wasn't stressed, just didn't stick it

More fun than I remember

 
Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown
26 Big Boyce Blouse — 3 attempts Sport 30m Very Good
3rd shot over 2 visits, placing draws. Other than the nails direct start, this is about gr22ish to the roof boulder. The roof boulder itself is gnarly sequence, with a pumpy, committing finish.

 
Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ghidrah
25 King Geedorah - with Match Sport 70m Mega Classic
Same-day TRS repeat (clean) to climb out. Dreaaaaaaaaaaaamy.

 
25 King Geedorah - with Match Sport 70m Mega Classic
Gentleman's Sit Flash. Flashed with a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands rest near the top. Mitch's draws and beta (super key for the start) with little/no chalk on the route.

Wow... Just... wow! Like Subliminal, but for climbing connoisseurs. This thing is destined to be a classic, especially given the relatively easy approach. Probably 23/24 after the first 10m, but it simply never lets up its entire 70m length. Even the top "Grey rock" headwall is tricky and awesome.

Best of all: it completely makes sense given the fact that there isn't really a "stance" to rebelay until you're almost at the top. Rope drag was fine as well.

An utter joy to climb.

 
Tue 2nd May 2023 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area
22 We Are Amphibious Sport 10m Very Good
Backlogging. I did this one last year, not sure why I didn't log the ascent. Easy when you know the moves, nails if don't. Super exposed.

 
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall
26 Sabbatical Sport 80m, 20 Classic
Repeat TRS attempt for fitness -not clean today. Wandery, but super rad.

 
23 Subliminated Sport 110m Very Good
Repeat. Clean TRS lap for fitness. Probably prouder than the original Subliminal, but shares too much of the same climbing to usurp its classic status.

 
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari
23 The House of Meat Sport 40m Very Good
Clean Repeat. TRS. This was probably the best of the routes I did here today. I found the two cruxes on this kinda hard -though it might just be post-covid fatigue.

 
22 Much of a Muchness Sport 30m Very Good
Clean Repeat. TRS. Not much harder than This Sporting Life, really.

 
21 Rampaging Roy Sport 30m Very Good
Clean repeat. TRS. A really cool steep section.

 
20 This Sporting Life Sport 43m, 15 Very Good
Clean Repeat. TRS for fitness after 2 weeks sick in bed. Pleasant face climbing on the 2nd pitch, with nice rock!

 
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Holzgauer Wand South face
7+ Trane - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 12m Very Good
Short but awesome quality. A hard, powerful crux at the grade.

 
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Toni Schmid Gedenkwand
9- Mambo Cavallero - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Cool feature, though not as proud as it looks from the ground. Given how much climbing it shares with its righthand neighbour, it wasn't substantially harder (maybe a grade, or so?) Last climb of the trip, and down to the wire, so no time for the proper red point, though its not any harder than the cheeky toppy.

 
8- Para las piltrafillas de Asturies - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport Very Good
Awesome steep start cranking up pockets, followed by an easy but pleasant face climb.

 
7+ Prahler - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport Very Good
Fell off trying to get the 2nd draw on (the crux of the route!). A cool, but gnarly opening boulder, then pleasant easy bridging.

 
Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände
8+ Geierblick - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 15m, 4 Classic
Two very different halves... the gnarly slab start (feat. Many Brutal Monos) is technical and insecure, and the steep headwall is powerful and punchy.

 
6+ Kreuzzug - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
A fun, wandering journey... but with a rather nails crux. Up-climbed and down-climbed on lead for a warmup.

 
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände
7 Monis Blackout - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 18m, 6 Good
The start was running with water, and I slipped off it. Then, from the ground to the top. I liked the runout headwall, but not much else about this route.

 
Wed 29th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände
9- Roter Baron - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
3rd shot. 2nd shot I fell off above the crux when I forgot about a key hold. A gnarly boulder off the ledge, with a pumpy finish. I skipped the complex sequence most seem to use, by doing bigger moves off worse holds (half-pad mono cranking FTW!) through the steepness.

 
8+ Abendspaziergang - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
3rd shot. 2nd shot I fell off on the roof crux. 2 brutally hard boulders separated by a no-hands rest. The bottom crimp-boulder traverse is bloody demanding (cranking a 2-finger quarter-pad edge on poor feet).

 
Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca
Massone Settore D
6c to 6c+ ~6c+ Ottopromille - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 20m Average
A nails sequence at the roof-turn. At this stage of tiredness, im not even sure why I'm roping up a anymore.

 
Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca
Sarche Piccolo Dain Parete del Centrale
5c Amazzonia Sport 320m Very Good
Pretty wild climbing at the grade, with some genuinely tricky and exposed moves. My old criticism was that it was somewhat loose -making for some scary soloing- but was otherwise pretty mega for a beginner route.

 
Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca
Massone Settore E
6c+ Alpen Liebe - with Simmo Sport 28m Very Good
One fall on the nails boulder problem (much harder than the posted grade) off the first ledge. Otherwise, onsight.

Radical steepness via features and kinda thrutchy climbing. Has an old-school vibe.

 
6c ~6c+ Utopia - with Simmo Sport 25m Mega Classic
Just...wow! Dreamy! Not often I froth this much on an easy climb.

Steep start, funky roof traversing, then beautiful technical face climbing on super sexy rock.

 
6c ~6c+ La Cura Della Fessura - with Simmo Sport 23m Classic
Wild and improbable steepness at the grade, following blocky crack features through roof after roof.

 
6b+ Gino e La Sfiga Sport 20m Very Good
Awesome second half up the steepness, but the lower half (on funkey blocks) was too slippery to be enjoyable.

 
Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Terlago
Settore A
7b Golden Contadino Pompa - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport Very Good
The logical line up the feature, even if its a nuisense to clean. I had to powerscream like a maniac for this one.

 
7b+ Golden contadino - with Simmo Sport 20m Classic
Third shot. Almost managed it second shot, but bungled a key footer right at the very end. Onsight to the last bolt, but the final runout, cryptic finale took some effort (and finding some balls) before I could wholly commit to it.

A super logical linkup, but the end is quite incongruous in difficulty and boldness.

 
7a+ Contadino Osvaldo - with Simmo Sport 18m Very Good
Continuous climbing up a steep, zig-zagging crack feature, with a funky bouldery finale where the crack ends. I was on this for a looooong time to score the onsight (no chalk on the final crux made it brutal to figure out).

 
Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Ringlerwand Schnappfix
7- Alter Weg - with Simmo Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Great climbing up linked features. Great flow and excellent warmup.

 
Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Ringlerwand Bella
9- Gefühlsecht - with Simmo Sport 13m Good
3rd shot. Like everything here, a brutal (rad) boulder start, and a more sustained (but punchy) steep finale. The opening boulder on this was very blueys-esque.

 
8- Fliegender Holländer - with Simmo Sport 13m Very Good
A climb of two halves, but both are cool.

The sustained roof boulder at the top is tonnes of fun, made much harder today by how wet all the initial holds were.

 
8 Aero Dynamo - with Simmo Sport 14m Very Good
2nd shot. The opening pocket boulder is rad, but once you stick it, the rest of the route is kinda ordinary.

 
Tue 21st Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberger Nordwand
8 ~8+ Verlassen des Weges verboten - with Simmo Sport 20m, 8 Classic
3rd shot. The true line up the prow feature via the most prominant features (though not as airy as emergency exit), the entire right side of the prow was running with water today, forcing us to climb a harder version to the anchor where we stayed left of the final crack system.

 
8+ Emergency Exit - with Simmo Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
3rd shot. Wild climbing through the pockets on the steep headwall. A very cool prow feature. Quintessential frankenjura.

 
Mon 20th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Mittelbergwand
8- Vaterschaftstest - with Simmo Sport 17m Very Good
A surprisingly hard slab, leads to a wild, but scarily finale through the rooflet, and up the prow above.

 
Mon 20th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Amberger Turm & Wand
8- ~8 Reise nach Indien - with Simmo Sport 17m, 3 Classic
Amazing, technical face climbing on sloping pockets... though 2 bolts in 20m is somewhat terrifying. On my onsight I fell off above the last bolt, necessitating getting scared again for the flash.

 
Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Grüne Hölle Upper part
8 Heinz Schenk - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 13m Very Good
Happy with the onsight, given how cryptic, technical, committing and unchalked this was. Follows an interesting seam feature up a prow. A good end to Day 2 in Frankenjura

 
Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Grüne Hölle Main
7+ Schwerter zu Bohrhaken - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport Good
2nd shot. A proper hard boulder off the ledge (probably not too bad when its not running with water), then just a doddle. The boulder slab start is kinda funky.

 
8- Isolation - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 12m Classic
2nd shot. Awesome steep, sustained pocket cranks up an iconic round boulder. Classic Jura!

 
6+ Vögelmaschine - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 10m Good
Very very wet, and thus very scary. Too slippery to be enjoyable.

 
Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein
7+ Akku - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 15m, 3 Very Good
Chose not to tame this by extending anything, but you would not want to fall on at least 2 sections (including the crux). Thin, balancy, and technical.

 
6+ Eieruhr - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 8m, 3 Good
Found the slippery feet on this kinda scary. Thr final steep bit was fun.

 
6+ R9 - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 15m Very Good
Brought a few wires for the start. Polished, but pleasant moves at the grade.

 
Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Stadelhofener Dunkelkammer
8- Elements of Surprise - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport Very Good
2nd shot. Mostly fairly easy and good fun, but the final one-pad mono crank is... gnarly and intimidating.

 
8- Kaumeier spezial - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 12m Very Good
Great! The whole steep finale on stacked pockets is what I imagined frankenjura would be!

 
7+ Zielbildungsprozess - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport Very Good
2nd shot. A brutally hard last few moves climbing direct at the finish. Quality climbing, though

 
7- Dax Fall - with Simmo, Stephen Varney Sport 10m Good
First route in Frankenjura! Get used to those small pockets!

 
Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area
22 ~23 Just Technical — 2 attempts Sport 15m Classic
2 Laps to warmup -the second with 10kgs of extra weight for training.

Still hard at the grade, but still super awesome for such a short route. Steep technical pocket cranking in an exposed position FTW.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,363 ascents.