Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Mié 11.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx - con Natasha | 170m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Mié 11.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
18 18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A long runout to the bolt, serious.
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17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Start is hard and balancy, then it's runout but easy, then reasonably protected the rest of the way
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Mié 11.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Scorpion | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
The climbing is good, not as offwidthy as it appears, but the position is really great. Worrying block/s at the start
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20 | ★★ Goodbye To All That - con kieran lawton | 35m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bouldery start, then it's a bit uninspiring crossing Scorpion, but the top bit is excellent
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20 | ★★★ Quo Vadis | 33m, 1 | Medio | |||
I don't get why people rave about this. The climbing is poor. The position is great but the second pitch of Kama Sutra is way better
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11 | ★★★ Blockbuster - con Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, but does have a large worrying block
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Mié 11.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
25 | ★ Imagination LHF | 10m | ★ Buena | |||
I think Chrispy led this by accident - it's a very bold lead, not sure if the gear would keep you off the ground. Impressive!
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22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Gear on the top corner all feels a little iffy. Tiny cams help. Friends said they saw Peter Croft solo up and down this, and that it actually looked easier coming down.
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17 | ★ Scorpion Direct Start | 14m | Medio | |||
Just odd. Easy some days and hard others
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12 15 | Abdul - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Decent access to blockbuster
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Mar 10.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Denim Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Denim - con Brendan Emmerson | 45m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
TR'd it with a fall then led it placing the gear on another day. Hadn't really looked at the gear so it felt like a proper 'placing the gear' tick. While it has good history and a good line the climbing's not that much fun, worth one star but not two.
I led the second pitch about 2005 and thought it was well protected.. went back 2015 and jumped off a few times as there was a runout traverse and a mantle before gear. Backed off as if you fell off the mantle you'd hit your belayer/the ledge.??? |
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Mar 10.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shalimar | 31m | Medio | |||
Unprotected bouldery start which is the crux, then wanders L and R with average gear and average rock - nice position though.
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23 | Nostalgia | 20m, 1 | Ni te molestes | |||
Rusty bolt, fragile rock, dodgy gear, don't bother.
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24 | ★★ Allez | 25m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A great first 8m or so, then just jump off and lower off the ring. Really cool. All big holds so good for the fingers. The second and third bolts are a bit hard to clip and you'd be hitting the ground so I'll try to remember to do this on doubles in the future. Pretty solid for 24.
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Mar 10.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
23 | Poppies pitch 3 | 30m | Medio | |||
22 | ★★ Wall Street | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Pumpy placing the gear... and doing the finish. Steeper than it looks
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12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★ Buena | |||
Not three stars! Good but not great.
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17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great apart from the hollow blocks. My favourite of the Bard buttress routes
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21 19 | ★ Poppies | 70m | Ni te molestes | |||
Tried to do this but it's loose and so contrived it's hard to work out where it goes - let alone where it gets a star from
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18 | ★★★ Eurydice | 65m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bit greasy but good.
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19 | ★★ The Desired | 60m | ★ Buena | |||
Tough from what I remember
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20 | Disguise the Limit - con Ben Pearse | 20m | Medio | |||
Mar 10.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Sheckle - con adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m | Medio | |||
Not the greatest rock/gear/climbing but worth doing once.
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22 | ★★ Clap for Kiwis - con adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.
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15 18 | ★ Jeckle | 18m | Medio | |||
Bit of a shock even if you're expecting 15. I could easily believe 18 for the start. Lookout.
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13 13 R | ★★ Rush of Blood | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Yep not much gear up top
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15 | ★★ Mr Hyde | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very interesting
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17 | ★ Crack Attack | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Harder than it looks!
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21 21 R | ★★ Wogs at the Piles | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Pretty much all the gear is not that inspiring.
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18 17 | ★ The Creesed Palm - con adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 14m | ★ Buena | |||
Adam did a more direct start traversing below the corner and up. Good climbing apart from a few loose blocks.
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17 | Double Decker - con Wendy Eden, adam demmert | 13m | Medio | |||
OK face climbing, a tad loose feeling.
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20 | ★ Fantoochi | 13m | ★ Buena | |||
Jue 5.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
20 19 | ★★★ Judgement Day | 67m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Wow - feels like 23
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16 15 | ★ Lady Dihedral | 78m | ★ Buena | |||
Yes! Do this instead of the original Lamplighter finish - it's way better.
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25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Had Wendy's gear in. Great climbing.
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23 | ★ Riot or Wrong | 9m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Tried to lead it when the bolt was gone - fiddly gear. Got pumped and tr'd it.
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29 | ★★★ Masada - con Rob McLeod | 28m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
I really like this one. Great line, great climbing, great history. 4 days.
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Jue 5.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
16 | ★ Lobboff | 10m | Medio | |||
20 20 R | ★ Doobie | 8m | Medio | |||
22 | ★ Fear of Flying | 12m | Ni te molestes | |||
25 | ★ Sonic Boom | 12m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Remarkably good!
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22 21 R | ★★ Dramp | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Super greasy committing layback around the roof.. gets a star just for the insecurity.
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24 | ★ Cumelittle | 15m, 2 | Ni te molestes | |||
Not sure why people bother with this. If you're going to do one 24 at Arapiles, make sure it's not this one. Sonic Boom is good! Do Sonic Boom instead! Go for a walk! Read an improving book! Phone your Mother!
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14 | ★ Minimus | 12m | ||||
10 | ★ Camelot | 13m | ||||
17 | ★ Maximus | 13m | ||||
18 | ★ Age of Raisins | 11m | ||||
Jue 5.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★ Pulpy Kidney - con Rob Oliver | 15m, 2 | Medio | |||
Has new bolts, yay.
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15 | ★★ Downward Bound | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Good. You can go over the back to the chains of PK, or scramble off maybe. The direct looks good but doesn't really come together as a route.
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14 | ★★ Mantis | 33m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great climbing, just a bit greasy
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18 | ★ Preying | 37m | ★ Buena | |||
Top is quite good
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19 | ★ Mandible | 41m | Medio | |||
OK, technical traverse
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26 | ★★★ Ergonomics | 20m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Just as well Dave got to this first. I was going to do it on the RP placements. Wouldn't have been so popular!
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25 | ★★ Strolling Right Hand Variant | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
This one's quite good. Placements is better though.
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24 | ★★ Strolling - con stuart williams | 25m, 1 | Ni te molestes | |||
I think this is 24 and no stars - wandery, hard greasy crux then easy. Just a bit dumb.
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18 | ★ Fang | 25m | Medio | |||
25 | ★★ Placements - con estherenita, Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
This route is excellent! Really interesting and hard for.. quite long enough.
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18 18 R | ★★ XI | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
23 23 R | ★ Ferrets and Berts - con Jessie Rushbrooke | 30m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
I did the sensible version - up XI to to the top of the crack, then L to the bolt. I found it quite technical, puzzling and blind. Good!
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16 | ★ Kamikaze | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Odd, slippery, hard.
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15 15 R | Orc-Wood - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Good climbing, crap rock and gear.
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26 | Hot Finger | 10m, 3 | Medio | |||
More like 24?
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Jue 5.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area | ||||||
21 | ★ Directathal - con enga lokey | 30m | Medio | |||
3 | ★ Ali's | 60m | Medio | |||
Jue 5.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Bygone | 30m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
20 | ★ Televisual Laxative | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
23 | Visual Laxative | 35m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Backed off on lead, crux is probably safe but comitting.
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20 19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bit discontinuous, with a hard start. Has always seemed like 20 to me.
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24 | ★★ No Standing | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Wandery but good climbing. You don't climb past the pin - you traverse L underneath it. Double ropes are good.
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17 | ★ Leadership Spill | 25m | Medio | |||
18 | ★ Housemaid's Knee | 15m | Medio | |||
Slightly scary rock and gear.
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18 | ★★ Kinkaid (Kincaid) | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
23 | Kool Aid | 20m | Medio | |||
23 | ★★ Slap Happy - con dave jones | 30m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Desperately hard start
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24 | ★ Petrol Solutions | 30m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Good climbing, bolts are probably suspect and there's a silly #4RP behind a loose looking flake at the top. At the moment, a good one to toprope off the chains.
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15 | ★ The Philanthropist | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Pretty hard for 15
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22 21 | ★★ Slap the Philanthropist | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Borderline 22.
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22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I have got a wire in before the bolt, but it seems to be a very specific size as I have gone up twice subsequently and not been able to place it. Best solution is to take a clip stick!
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25 | ★ Feral Fee-box | 12m, 3 | Medio | |||
24 | ★★ Deeply Techo - con Enga Lokey | 20m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
After the alcove I stopped at every move looking for gear as I wasn't convinced about the nest below.. I fell off slapping the jug at the top and went most of the length of the route. The gear was fine!
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20 19 | ★★ Firedance | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Mié 4.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★★ Dunes Direct | 100m | ★ Buena | |||
16 | ★★ Arab | 110m | Medio | |||
20 | ★★ Scarecrow | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Gear is decent all the way. Nicer starting up Saracen p2. Good climbing and position, some cool chickenheads near the top.
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16 | ★★ Saracen | 110m | ★ Buena | |||
I like this one. First pitch is sustained and challenging for it's first half. A bit of a ramble then second pitch is good too.
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13 | ★ Lawrence - con Wendy Eden | 100m | Ni te molestes | |||
Not worth it for one good section!
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Mié 4.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
24 | Nurse, Increase the Sedatives | 10m, 1 | Ni te molestes | |||
25 | Stage Right | 15m, 2 | Medio | |||
25 | ★★ No Exit | 65m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Backed off second pitch - I'll try taking a big cam for the pocket. Seemed committing pulling over the bulge.
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26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille - con gordon poultney | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very cool past the pillar.. I wish the chip was bigger! Nearly fell off every move after the crux to the top. Was too pumped to put the wire in so it was pretty exciting!
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23 22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant | 12m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
24 | ★★ Dreadlots | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
24 | ★★ Dreadnought | 54m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
The second pitch is the only route I have gotten up before Nick Sutter! I find the first pitch desperate, especially placing the gear. The second pitch is desperate too, but only for a few moves, then it's easy.
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22 22 R | ★ Jeepers | 8m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
The bolt is rubbish, and you might hit the ground off the crux even if it held.
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Mié 4.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★ The Real Thing | 15m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
22 | ★★★ Los Endos | 40m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Loose feeling and not that well protected. Double ropes are good.
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24 | ★★ Breezin' - con dave jones | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
A really good wire at half height, then that's it.
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21 | ★ Not Like a Hurricane | 18m | ★ Buena |