Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Lun 19.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
15 15 R | ★ The Joker - con Natasha Pavlin | 25m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Really quite scary.
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Lun 19.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
23 | ★ High Kicks | 13m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
20 | ★★ Stormalong | 32m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very good if you enjoy that sort of thing. Second pitch goes past an amazing graveyard of small birds (peregrine feeding spot)
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16 | ★ Hum | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Fairly full on if you lead 16
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18 18 R | ★ Dinger direct start | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
17 | ★ Dinger | 22m | ★ Buena | |||
16 17 | ★★ The Second Affinity (Affinity) | 22m | ★ Buena | |||
17 | ★ High Sigh | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Better than Affinity I reckon
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9 | ★ Menagerie | 20m | Medio | |||
9 | ★ Munchkin | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
22 | ★ Nihilism | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Dom 18.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Denim Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ L7s | 15m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I really liked this -- big holds, varied, accessible grade. Good warmup for the others
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Dom 18.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
21 | ★ Four Spooner | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Pumpy to place the gear.
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19 | ★ Exodus 2.5 Direct Finish | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
16 | ★ Waddy Mackenzie | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
19 | ★ Kansas City Direct Finish | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
17 | Lord of the Rings Variant Start | 20m | Medio | |||
Sáb 17.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
20 | ★★ Down and Out | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
I don't love this route as much as others it would seem. Gear can be fiddly if you don't spot the right placements. Rings are to the R in a little cave - easy to miss.
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Vie 16.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Leasehold Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Bitterblue - con Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Really is much better than it looks! Almost worth a star, rock at start is a bit friable.
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14 | ★ Anchors Away - con Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
Actually ok despite appearances
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15 | Totally Stoned - con Wendy Eden | 36m | Medio | |||
22 | ★ Fade Out - con Duncan Steel † | 35m | Ni te molestes | |||
I really didn't like this one
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Vie 16.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Intrepid Gully | ||||||
23 | Hard Snort - con Chad Albinger | 20m, 1 | Ni te molestes | |||
I didn't think this was worth a star... or even worth doing again.
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18 | ★ Opening - con Wendy Eden | 20m | Medio | |||
Hard for 18 and not overprotected if I remember right.
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21 21 R | Pick and Lose | 20m | Medio | |||
25 | ★ Cliff Richards - con Paul Hoskins | 15m, 2 | Medio | |||
24 | ★ Epic Demic | 22m | Medio | |||
A bit brittle and crimpy.
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23 | ★ Angry Penguins - con Duncan McGregor | 20m | Medio | |||
Went up, fugged around, got pumped, fell off, seconded Duncan.
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Vie 16.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North PB Gully | ||||||
24 | Angles Up - con Paul Hoskins | 20m | Medio | |||
Jue 15.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North PB Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★ PB - con Billy Lukin | 23m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A hard and scary start. These days I do Tangent and chuck in a cam on rap after the start and preclip it. A much easier start if you're tall is moving R onto the ledge and up the thin wall to the break. About 19 for me but gear is on the ledge so if you fell off it'd be an ugly fall.
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19 | ★ Tangent - con Billy Lukin | 20m | Medio | |||
Rock is Ok but it wanders around a lot.
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Dom 11.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North PB Gully | ||||||
24 | ★★ Impasse - con Nicky Sunderland | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Wandery but good.Took me two days, that was when I realised I wasn't going to do all the Moorhead '81 routes in a year!
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25 | ★★ Blockade - con Gordon Poultney | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great climbing and great rock once you stop traversing right and left and actually go up.
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25 | Temporary Imbalance - con Paul Hoskins | 20m | Ni te molestes | |||
Too short.
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Dom 11.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
21 20 | ★ Dry Reach - con Abby Watkins | 18m, 1 | Ni te molestes | |||
As it says, you could hurt yourself if you fall off getting to the bolt. Hard and slopey past it and then quite runout to the base of the groove (unless I missed something). Very easy up the groove. I finished direct up the crack of Stalamite and right up the headwall which is ok but a bit loose.
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16 | ★ Frankenstein - con Wendy Eden | 38m | Ni te molestes | |||
A couple of ok moves then rubbish.
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17 | ★★ Preludes | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
Some days this is ok, some days it's desperate
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite - con Wendy Eden | 36m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great climbing
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11 | ★★ Dracula - con Wendy Eden | 40m | Ni te molestes | |||
Slick and not much fun
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20 20 R | ★ Man Shy | 35m | Medio | |||
19 | ★ Rosy Shy | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Cool features in top half. Slick crack to start and fairly desperate crux for the grade. Can do in 1 pitch.
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18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | Medio | |||
18 | ★ Interlude - con Abby Watkins | 35m, 2 | Basura | |||
The climbing is quite good but there are major loose blocks on this that mean I would not do this route again or recommend it to others.
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Lun 5.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
21 | ★★ Anything At AlI | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
18 | Off the Shelf | 20m | Ni te molestes | |||
22 | ★ Mediterranean Sundance | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Better starting from Anything At All and traversing in.
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21 22 | ★★ Speechless | 20m, 1 | Medio | |||
Greasy with old pegs. Not a star for me.
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22 | ★ Walk On - con Jill McLeod | 15m | Medio | |||
Scary at top
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Sáb 26.º Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ You Can't Stop the Gobble - con Wendy Eden | 71m | ★ Buena | |||
Just did the roof on P2 which seems too hard for 19. Not bad, a little dirty and loose in places but.. good on second!
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Mié 23.º Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | ||||||
19 | ★★ Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Mié 23.º Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
22 | ★★ Vapour Trail - con Cate Webb | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Interesting and fun. Had a hillarious ascent with Cate where I clawed my way up getting pumped out of my brain, then Cate floated up finding all manner of rests including a no hands kneebar where I was most pumped!
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18 | ★★ Huey | 16m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
It is good but two stars not three.
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Mié 23.º Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | ||||||
17 16 | ★ Sheer Ecstasy - con Wendy Eden | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I found this really quite hard! Quite substantial for a short looking route.
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Mié 23.º Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ The British Beat | 15m, 2 | Ni te molestes | |||
Horrible slick slab. Glad I did it when I was too young to know better and don't have to do it again.
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15 | ★★ Agent Orange - con Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Great climbing all the way. I find a way to make it quite hard.
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19 | Strange Tails - con ben weissner | 30m | Ni te molestes | |||
A couple of ok moves, quite hard and would be a very bold lead I think - didn't really look at the gear but didn't notice much.
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20 | ★★ Vanoise - con ben weissner | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Gawd! Slick and holdless and.. not as hard as you convince yourself it is.
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20 | ★ Cranky Babies - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Good - subtle and footsy
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15 | ★ The Venus Trap - con kylie jarret, wendy eden | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Nice!
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Lun 21.º Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Good, the Bad and the Ugly - con Rob Oliver | 100m | ★ Buena | |||
11 | ★ Eagle Cleft - con Wendy Eden | 120m | ★ Buena | |||
OK
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19 | ★ Straight Eight - con Wendy Eden | 42m | Medio | |||
The start is good then the arete is easy and worthless.
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Jue 7.º Mayo 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gilt Edged - con Suzanne | 40m | ★ Buena | |||
This seemed very hard today, super slick and greasy. The bottom flake felt slippery and insecure, the crux bit kinda desperate, the roof confusing and a bit runout and the top pumpy and thought provoking. Good climbing mostly, shame it's more porkulent than a laardvaark.
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Jue 7.º Mayo 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Mexican Madness - con Suzanne | 10m | Medio | |||
Poor rock in first half, gear's not that great either. Both get better as you get higher. Take 2 slings for jugs. Seemed stiff for 17 but somedays they all do.
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Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, a bit greasy which detracts for me. Good climb though.
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26 | ★★ Crystal Vision - con Paul Hoskins | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Paul onsighted this, of course.
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23 | ★ Crystal Prophet - con ross taylor | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Start is a bit goey, even with bolt clipped. Crux moving out from top of flake feels blind and exposed and out there - but the runner is really not that far away. It just feels far away.
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Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Argyle St Clump | ||||||
19 | ★ Argyle Street | 15m | Medio | |||
Looks like about 14... I may not have had the right gear (small wires I recall). Remember technical and insecure.
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Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
22 22 X | ★ Blyth Street Direct Start - con Paul Hoskins | 12m | Medio | |||
Jesus fracking Christ. Didn't know what I was getting myself in for. First runner is at about half height. After that I took note of Warwick Baird routes!
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19 19 R | ★★ Rats Alley | 25m, 1 | Medio | |||
Gear is not inspiring, probably wouldn't lead it again
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Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Crooked Mile | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
I absolutely love this one. The start is nothing special but the rest is just great.
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22 | ★ Blackguard | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Good I remember, with a great wire slot in the blankest part.
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23 | ★ Crayons - con Donna | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Hard scary start to desperate finish. Not 22, at all.
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22 | ★ Linear Transformation | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Utterly desperate start with worrying gear, at the top is a slightly desperate corner with slightly worrying gear.
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22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
This route's ok but I don't seem to love it like everyone else.
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20 | ★★ Je Suis un Legend | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
I really like this one! Big holds all the way, good gear, a bit exposed on the traverse and technical up the top bit. Totally unbiased.
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23 24 | ★★ Fault Line - con Paul Hoskins | 25m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
It was a long time ago, but seemed more like 23
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23 | ★★ Fault Line Direct | 25m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Add 10 grades if you're short, and 100 if you're Wendy's size
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22 | ★★ Loading Zone - con Paul Hoskins | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
21 20 | ★★★ New Image | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Love this one. More like 21 and some long moves. Start is hard and not well protected, and the gear immediately after pumpy to place.
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22 | ★★ Continuum | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
I'd give it one star. A bit runout through and after the crux and rock is a bit dodgy up high
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Mié 29.º Abr 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
25 | Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting - con Martin Tatton | 15m | Medio | |||
Technical
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20 | ★ Spanish Eyes | 30m | Medio | |||
Hard start, pumpy to protect, then a ramble and the top is nice.
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20 20 R | ★ Rosshalde | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
I fell off this! If you want to be safe, preplace cams above the start and preclip them on the abseil in. The start is hard and greasy and odd. So's the rest of it. The gr19 DF is pretty hard and exciting too (gear is ok, take small cams)
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Mié 29.º Abr 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte | 30m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
I've never really liked the bottom half, but the top is good if you go direct.
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20 | ★ Going For The One | 30m | Medio | |||
A bit exciting on the gear.
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers | 30m, 3 | Medio | |||
The slopey traverse in is crap, the DS much better.
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers Direct | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
I really like this one. Best route on the wall (that I can do!)
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26 | ★★ The Fortress - con Paul Hoskins | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bit slimy now, but I did it with three dynos, so that's always fun.
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22 | ★ Follow Your Nose | 12m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Take care with gear.
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24 | Follow Your Nose Direct Start | 8m | Medio | |||
18 | Get Your Bloody Fingers Out of My Nostrils | 10m | Medio | |||
23 | Got It! - con Paul Hoskins | 27m, 2 | Medio | |||
Mar 28.º Abr 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ Industrial Muscle - con ingvar | 30m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Two star 23 - awesome - to a ledge and then dyno for a thread off slopes.
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6 | ★ BA Mosquito | 45m | ★ Buena | |||
17 17 R | ★ Calabrese - con Caela | 55m | ★ Buena | |||
Frightening! It's not even a good wire you run it out from. Ok route, just worth a star.
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18 | ★★ A Whale Of A Time Direct Finish - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very nice rock and a bit bold.
take lots of cams. Impressive lead by Noddy, probably onsight I imagine.
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18 | ★ Artificial Insemination - con Wendy Eden | 130m | ★ Buena | |||
Started up BA mosquito, finished with WAOT DF - all pitches good, pitch through the roof has hard start and some dubious rock.
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10 9 | ★★ Beau Geste - con Jaq | 140m | ★ Buena | |||
Initial squeeze is not that fun. The rest is good but only one star I reckon
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