Ascensiones en Arapiles como varios tipos de ascensiones registradas por Douglas Hockly

Crap gear and dodgy rock

You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.

Very good but slick

I thought gear was OK on this, but I've only done it once. My impression is that it doesn't deserve the R rating. Climbing was cool.

A little scary up the arete at the top as the rope stretch would land you on the ledge. You could belay on the ledge which would help if 18 is close to your limit.

Start is fun, finish is scary! There's a #3RP that is too low to keep you off the ledge and a loose flake you have to pull on. Happy not to do this one again.

Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.

Great! Always fairly tough.

I love this route - varied, technical, good gear but you have to go above it. Shame it doesn't finish direct.

I find this a little awkward.

Can be quite hard if you don't get it right! I've done a direct finish up the little wall above by accident with worthless gear and a scary mantle. Climbing's ok if you really want to risk your ankles.

Wouldn't do it again. Not sure how it gets a star. Gwen is better.

Not that great - the top 5m are good!

Very nice - 18?

Really nice!

Watch the rock

Best started at ground level on the L wall for the full pump. Not the greatest gear or rock.

Looks like you're in for heavy duty offwidthing, in fact there's some awesome face holds in just the right places. Great climbing.

More like 16?

Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.

Amazing! Looks like 13 and rubbish, is in fact full on for 19, very odd, not that well protected. You won't forget this!

Nice. Chains above Flights of Fancy

Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!

Really quite scary. The gear's not great and the rock is worse. If in doubt, go sideways!

Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.

The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.

Fabulous.

OK but wandery

OK but wandery

Too loose for three stars!

Loose and not fun!

Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.

Awesome!

I always find the greasiness and dodgy gear and rock disconcerting at the start of this. None of it is that bad but...

The initial corner would be daunting to lead. The top bit is great.

TR'd it one day and led it placing the gear the next - it had 2 fixed wires so gear wasn't that hard to place. The bit up to the crux - about 24 - is really insecure and great climbing. The crux is interesting but the dyno for a gravelly fingerlock is not heaps of fun if you blow it. The top bit is easy (Gordy fell off it te he). Not a three star route though.

Very nice fun.

Tried to do this.. what I did seemed more like 15

Very odd getting out of the cell, but interesting after that too. Take some large cams for the start

Very hard for 13!

Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.

I didn't think much of this - not great rock and not great climbing - but it does get you to the chains above Big Brother...

Great all the way.

Gear is ok if you look. Interesting.

Great - very sustained in first 2/3